Mamaleh’s

In Boston, the old-school Jewish deli is new again.

GO HERE: for Jewish deli classics that taste as good as you’ve always wished they would. The bagels and bialys are made in-house; the pastrami and brisket are brined, smoked, and roasted the old-fashioned way; even the sodas—in flavors like celery and beet—are built from house-made shrubs and syrups.

ORDER THE: “Jewish Pupu Platter,” a board laden with rich chopped liver, flaky knishes, and crunchy pickles; the pastrami sandwich (a perfect ratio of juicy meat to mustard to fresh rye bread); and the beautifully browned blintzes with raspberry preserves.

THE VIBE IS: a straight-up recreation of the great delis of yore. The exterior may look like every other nondescript new development in Cambridge, but the inside buzzes with every generation of deli lover seated at diner-style tables and the tiled bar.

GETTING IN: is no problem; crowds peak midday on the weekends.

TAKE HOME: a quart of matzo-ball soup, jars of fresh horseradish, or custom “schlep” totes from the well-curated mini market and deli counter by the entrance.