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Buccellati launches jewellery retrospective in Venice

3 June 2024 • Written by Belle Rice

Italian fine jeweller Buccellati has introduced a new jewellery retrospective at Venice's Oficine 800 on Giudecca Island. The event, which ran alongside the Venice Boat Show and opened just before BOAT's World Superyacht Awards, is conveniently located next to the Hilton Molino Stucky and a short stroll from Harry’s Dolci. 

“The Prince of Goldsmiths: Rediscovering the Classics” showcases the maison’s collective history over four generations of a family design team, from the original talent of goldsmith Mario Buccellati, who founded the brand in Milan at the end of the first world war in 1919; his son Gianmaria who oversaw the creative direction of the brand whilst his brothers expanded the boutiques across Italy and into the United States, Japan and France in the mid 20th century, and now the third and fourth generations. 

The new generation includes father and daughter duo Andrea and Lucrezia Buccellati, who, alongside their extended family were present at the gala dinner to launch the exhibition for the Biennale, and are busy ensuring the maison has its place firmly in the 21st century, designing contemporary jewellery and objet that preserve its 105-year heritage.

Alongside necklaces, cuffs and earrings that trace the company’s century-old tradition, the retrospective features bejewelled bags and art-deco era accessories such as intricately carved boxes and cigarette cases that were the height of style in their day and are sought-after vintage finds now – a reflection of the timelessness of Buccellati. 

Maria Cristina, sister to Andrea, remarked that styles are "so timeless, pieces can pass from one generation to the next without any effort" pointing out that the earrings she is wearing for the occasion were her mother’s, and that her own daughter frequently borrows them now. One of the highlights of the showcase is the ‘Wonders of the Sea’ collection, comprising cleverly crafted silverware inspired by the oceans, with lobsters, crabs, swordfish, and shells all represented as centrepieces for a dining table. 

Indeed, so beloved was this theme that a 1960s yacht owner commissioned a range of silverware, table accessories and picnic baskets for his boat that is now known as Tahiti, and is available across the world in Buccellati’s boutiques as one of their best-loved silver collections.

To celebrate the retrospective opening, the Venice gala dinner was a grand affair seating a couple of hundred guests in a large glass-ceilinged orangery by the Fortuny Showroom and Factory, and one of the first of Buccellati’s client experiences as they make their foray into this new territory that so many luxury brands are now exploring. The maison, Maria Cristina explained, likes to arrange unique, one on one offerings for individuals - a recent experience for a guest has been a private tour and lunch at Leonardo da Vinci’s historically preserved Milanese vineyard and gardens, and as the team prefer to be able to showcase the local lifestyle and Buccellati history in accordance with an individual’s tastes and interests, in keeping with the artistic heritage and bespoke nature of the work of this quintessentially Italian brand.

Until 18 June, Fondamenta S. Biagio, 800, 30133 Venezia VE, Italy

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