ARIZONA

Painted Desert Inn at 100: A cultural beacon in Petrified Forest looks to the future

Portrait of Tiffany Acosta Tiffany Acosta
Arizona Republic

Nestled in the rugged terrain of northeastern Arizona lies the Painted Desert, a geological marvel that captivates visitors with its vibrant colors and ancient history.

Spanning over 7,500 square miles, the Painted Desert is part of the larger Petrified Forest National Park, offering a unique blend of beauty, scientific significance and deep importance to Indigenous peoples. Hopi, Navajo, Zuni and various Puebloan peoples have longstanding connections to the land as a vital part of their heritage and spiritual practices.

At its edge stands the historic Painted Desert Inn, built in 1924 by local entrepreneur Herbert Lore to cater to travelers along Route 66. In the 1920s and 1930s, a room could be had for $2.50, making the Painted Desert Inn a popular stop for weary travelers across the remote desert. Lore built the inn using locally sourced petrified wood and sandstone, materials that echo the surrounding landscape.

Today, the Painted Desert Inn is a museum and visitor center, showcasing its rich history and architectural evolution, including renovations by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. Its designation as a national historic landmark ensures that future generations can appreciate its enduring beauty and significance.

Ultimate visitor guide:Best things to do at Petrified Forest and Painted Desert

What is special about the Painted Desert?

The Painted Desert owes its striking appearance to layers of sedimentary rock infused with minerals like iron and manganese. Over millions of years, erosion sculpted these layers, exposing hues ranging from rich reds and oranges to soft purples and grays. This kaleidoscope of colors stretches across expansive landscapes, creating a surreal panorama that shifts with the light of day.

The Painted Desert Inn was a vital stop for travelers along Route 66. We talked to Sarah Herve, interpretation and education program manager at Petrified Forest National Park, who said Lore used the region's natural resources to build the inn.

“In the Painted Desert, there's petrified wood deposits from something that we call the Black Forest, which they're kind of a rare type of petrified wood. Of course, he didn't know; that he was just utilizing the resources that he had available to him,” Herve said.

Herve said Lore and his crew called petrified wood the "stone tree" and built the inn out of it and sandstone. Many of the building's original walls are covered by the stucco that cloaks the building today.

The inn provided rooms and refreshments to weary travelers. It wasn't easy.

“One thing I always think about when I think about Herbert Lore was he had to be one motivated dude, because he had to haul water 10 miles. He really saw an opportunity and took it,” Herve said. "Back then you could get a room for $2.50, or if it was two rooms, $4."

Painted Desert Inn: A national historic landmark and Harvey Hotel

In the 1930s, the National Park Service purchased the inn and surrounding land to establish the Petrified Forest National Monument. The Civilian Conservation Corps renovated the inn, blending its original materials with Pueblo Revival-style architecture, including hand-painted skylights inspired by Hopi pottery designs.

The Painted Desert Inn operated as a Harvey Hotel from 1947 to 1963. The Fred Harvey Company, renowned for its hospitality services along the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway, managed the inn. The company was instrumental in popularizing the concept of high-quality, standardized service in remote locations.

Renowned architect Mary Colter, known for her work with the Harvey Company, remodeled the inn in 1947, adding distinctive Southwestern touches. Colter commissioned Hopi artist Fred Kabotie to create murals depicting Hopi culture and daily life​. This collaboration highlighted the blending of local Indigenous art with the Harvey Company’s goal of creating unique and culturally rich hospitality experiences.

The Painted Desert Inn was designated a national historic landmark in 1987.

"Over the years, it was recognized that it had so many historic elements that needed to be preserved and so it is now a national historic landmark, meaning that it has a very, very high level of protection and will never be at risk of being torn down,” Herve said.

“Today we operate it as a museum and visitor space. We don't rent out rooms anymore, although we occasionally do get calls from people wanting to rent a room."

Are Petrified Forest and Painted Desert the same thing?

Petrified Forest National Park straddles Interstate 40 east of Holbrook in northeastern Arizona. While closely associated, the Petrified Forest and the Painted Desert are distinct features within the park.

The Petrified Forest encompasses vast areas where ancient trees have fossilized into colorful, mineralized stone. Big concentrations of petrified wood can be easily seen along walking trails and roadside stops in the southern part of the park.

The Painted Desert refers to the striking geological formations and colorful landscapes that define the park's northern expanse.

“We have pictures of Albert Einstein visiting Petrified Forest but I don't know if he ever went into Painted Desert Inn,” said Herve.

Celebrating 100 years of history at the Painted Desert Inn

The Painted Desert Inn lives on as a cultural beacon. Plans for its future focus on preserving its historic integrity, maintaining structural stability and enhancing visitor accessibility and engagement. Occasional special events highlight the inn's enduring legacy and invite the public to experience its history firsthand.

The building contains artifacts, murals and exhibits. Visitors can explore some of the historic rooms, admire the hand-painted skylights inspired by Hopi pottery designs and learn about its role as a Harvey House.

“I would say the future of the building is to just keep it not only secure but looking well cared for, keeping up with all of the historic elements making sure that they're well cared for and preserved,” Herve said.

Painted Desert Inn

Where: 1 Park Road, Petrified Forest National Park. It straddles Interstate 40 about 20 miles east of Holbrook.

Admission: $25 per vehicle, good for seven days.

Details: 928-524-6228, nps.gov.

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