Our 15-year old free-standing, slot-together, heavy metal bike stand had started to lean forward because the weight of the top bike eventually deformed the tube joints. We wanted a replacement stand that would not require a lot of room in front of a wall and settled on this Delta Cycle rack. This is a very innovative "wall lean" design that gets your bikes about as close to the wall as possible and uses the weight of the bikes to make it a remarkably stable, self-supporting unit.Assembly is a quick and easy 10-minute job. This just requires six Philips head screws (included) to bolt together the rack's foot, mid-section, and top. The rack metal tubing is lightweight but stiff and strong. With metal tube products, I usually expect to have to battle misaligned holes but, in this case, the tube holes are perfectly aligned and each screw goes in very easily.Where you are going to encounter all the actual work of setting this stand up is with the bike hooks. Now, the gravity tension arms are, like the stand itself, very innovative. These wrap around the rack poles and are held firmly in place by the bike weight pressing down on the arm - an exceedingly brilliant design. The caveat, however is that while each arm's rubber/silicone sleeve along with the gravity-tension arm-wrap design firmly grabs the pole and ensures that the arms don't slide down the pole from the weight of the bike, that same rubbery material on the supporting hooks (where you place your bike) is not grippy at all.If you mount your bike on the hooks as shown in the product diagram where both bike wheels are horizontally level, the bike's top bar will be naturally slanted downward from the handlebars to the seat (you can see this in the product diagram particularly for the bottom bike; this may not be the case for racing bikes where the top tube can be quite horizontally level but mountain bikes generally have a top tube that inclines downward from the handlebars to the seat). This tube incline will cause the bike to slide backward on the hooks because the hook rubber sleeve has very little grip. The bike will only stop sliding backward once the rear wheel touches the ground and the gravity-tension arms will swing backward to allow this to happen (the arms don't slide down the pole but they can swing side-to-side).To make this rack work, you necessarily must set each bike's rear wheel higher than the front wheel which will make the top tube horizontally level and this will prevent the bike from sliding backward on the hooks. In my photo set, if you look at the close up of the Raleigh bike, you'll see that the top tube of that bike is almost perfectly horizontally level and you can see that the rear tire is therefore higher than the front tire (it's a bit harder to make this out in the photo with both bikes). Basically, you're aiming for the hook arms to both be at roughly the same level (this is not like the product diagram where the bottom bike has the rear hook much lower than the front hook; if you actually tried this, that bottom bike would slide backward over the hooks until the rear tire hit the ground).One consequence of this "hiked up backside" orientation is that you'll need to make sure that the top bike hooks are placed very near the top of the frame so that the top bike has enough clearance over the bottom bike (again, not like what you see in the product diagram). In the photos, you can see how high up on the rack the top bike (the Raleigh) needed to be and, even then, it just clears the bottom bike. What I advise is that you set up the bottom bike first. Use the "horizontally-level hooks" approach and set the front tire as close to the ground as you can (give it just an inch or two of clearance from the ground). This will ensure that you have the maximum amount of available vertical space for the top bike. You can put some masking tape on the rack poles to indicate the level of the bottom bike seat and handlebars then remove the bottom bike and set up the top bike hooks so that the top bike wheels clear the top of the bottom bike (where the masking tape is). In my case, I just needed to ensure that the front wheel of the top bike (the wheel that is closest to the ground) clears the seat of the bottom bike (since the rear wheel of the top bike will necessarily be higher up, it automatically cleared the handlebars of the bottom bike).With all that said, this is a remarkably brilliant bike rack. I was a bit concerned about the rack potentially sliding forward at the base (particularly given the weight of our two bikes which are each about 25 lbs which is half the indicated weight limit of 40 lbs per bike) but it's been rock solid for four days now so I don't think it's going anywhere (and other reviewers have not indicated any rack slide out issues). The engineering on the arms needs to be improved so that they lock into position not only vertically but horizontally too (they should not so easily swing side-to-side). I may use some zip ties to help fasten the arms in place so that they don't easily become detached from the rack when lifting the bikes off the arm hooks.