Helen Tansey

Where Can I Find Pants That Aren’t Too Long for Me?

A petite stylist shares her hacks and where to shop

Ask The Kit is the real-talk advice column you never knew you needed. Every week, writer Leanne Delap answers your pressing beauty and style questions. How can I find good plus-size options? How can I get shiny hair? How do I define my personal style? Send your Qs to ask@thekit.ca

“Hi! I have a question for you, related to petite sizing. Specifically, I’ve been on a wide-leg soft pant spree for never-ending WFH life, and finding that many of them trail along the ground (I’m 5 foot 3). I’ve been rolling over the waistbands to compensate but that is inelegant and not that comfy for the crotch region. It feels silly to take jersey lounge pants to the tailor, so I’ve been paying more attention to the inseam lengths and going for versions that are ‘cropped’ (for a model). But perhaps there are other tricks or great petite shopping destinations I’m missing?” —Tripping over my pants in Toronto

If you are looking for hot tips on where to find sleeves and pants that are long enough, I’m your gal. I’ve been cresting 6 feet since I was about 12, so I’ve had a lifetime of “How’s the weather up there?” and “Floods over!” Not to mention that time I wore green tights and had to live with the handle “Jolly Green Giant” for a distressingly long time.

Which is to say, that while I can empathize, I have no insights into petite shopping issues. Luckily for you, Tripping, this column is about seeking out experts, and I found a great one for this. Truc Nguyen is a fashion market pro thanks to her years of experience as a stylist and writer. She is also, at 4 foot 10, a petite customer with lots of personal experience on the subject.

“Petite is a niche market,” says Nguyen, “and it can be tricky for people. Plus, things have changed. Some stores I counted on have closed during the pandemic. And others that used to have petite departments have moved those sizes to online only.” She also acknowledges the disappointing reality that finding petite clothes is easier if you are petite and slender; the options for petite clothing to fit curvier bodies are even harder to find.

A little altering can go a long way to bridge the gap: Making things smaller is easier than making things bigger. As every stylist (Nguyen included) will tell you, the secret to great style is great fit, and that means developing a relationship with a tailor. “I think it really makes a difference in terms of your confidence; once you discover how it feels when the fit is bang on, it gives you a sense of confidence.”

She gets the frustration of a bulky rolled-up waistband and a too-snug crotch. “I understand the reader not wanting to take too-long lounge pants to the tailor,” she says. “But we are currently at home a lot, so it may be worth it.” One of Nguyen’s tricks, for simple alterations such as wide-legged lounge pants and jeans, is to take them to a dry cleaner that also does alterations, or, she adds, “I go to the places in the subway that charge $10. Shortening tends to be pretty easy, unless there is a special finish at the hem. They have machines that serge-finish edges, which can look pretty good and costs less than a new hand-sewn rolled or tucked hem.”

If you are going to get anything hemmed, she adds, be sure to wash it first to account for any shrinkage: What would be worse than spending the money to shorten pants, and then have them become too short after washing?

The styling tricks Nguyen would use in “normal” times—wearing slightly too long pants with heels or platform shoes—don’t work when you are at home, because who wears heels alone at home?  She adds that as we speak she is wearing a great pair of WFH pants from TKees that are a little long, but not tripping long.

Nguyen says that being petite means you have to be a more meticulous shopper, as in, taking note of listed inseam lengths (as sizes vary so wildly between brands) to gauge whether online purchases will fit or not. She says sometimes she buys the cropped version of a pant—adding that Aritzia is a great source for cropped pants that work for her own petite proportions—to wear as a “regular”-length pant.

Nguyen points to the world’s most famous petite designers, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, both at around 4 foot 11, as proof that petite women can wear oversized items. “They wear oversize all the time, layers and layers of it, from blazers to coats to looooong pants and skirts,” she says. “They have so much confidence. I don’t have that much confidence! But it is proof you can do it intentionally. The Row (the Olsens’s brand), adds Nguyen, while pricey, can be a great brand for petite shoppers to try.

“In particular, a wardrobe must-have to pull things together is an amazing wool coat. Is the length of the arm right? It should just graze your first knuckle. Does the shoulder line hit the right spot?” She has been wearing Aritzia coats, she says, “since high school; they sell them in 00 or XXS, and the proportions are right.” In general, she says, you want to pay close attention to where the buttons and the belt hit you, and that it works for your frame.

Nguyen also suggests you have a couple of well-fitted blazers, properly proportioned for a smaller frame. In designer labels, she recommends Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe: “They fit really well, they’re pretty dramatic, and I’m confident wearing them.” For more affordable options, she says to check out Banana Republic and J.Crew, which both have great petite sections, albeit online.

She reminisces about the early 2000s, when she would go to kids’ uniform stores to buy blazers for that shrunken look so popular in that moment. Indeed, she says, kids stores can be a great option, if you’re comfortable with that. “I’m a size 12 or 14 kids,” she says. “However, I’ve noticed that even designer brands’ kids clothes are not made with fabrics that are as nice as their adult clothes.” This makes sense, she says, as kids grow, and their clothes aren’t made to last. She points to a pair of Marni kids shoes she bought recently, and was disappointed by the construction.

“It is also really, really tricky to get a dress shirt that fits,” she says. “When you want to wear it untucked, the right torso length is important.” She has a great one from The Row but also a couple of nice ones from Uniqlo U premium collection. “Their stuff fits me, and it’s really good shirting.” She has also found good-value dress shirts at Gap and Club Monaco and Reformation, which can be great sources for petite finds. Uniqlo and Muji, which both originate in Japan, usually can be counted on for items that fit smaller frames, she says.

To get petite-sized clothes to fit the way you want them to takes a bit more shopping around, a little more change room time. You also have to read reviews and study online measurements, and carve out an alterations budget. But, says Nguyen, once you find the brands that fit you, you can better trust that new styles will work in the future as well. These measures are good advice for all of us, even the jolly green giants, to put more time and energy into ensuring a proper fit. It means we will use the clothes we do buy more often, and keep them longer.

 

Shop the advice

Stylist and fashion writer Truc Nguyen reveals some of her favourite sources for great petites

 

AritziaWilfred pants, $148, aritzia.com 
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One easy styling trick for petites looking for an inseam that won’t overwhelm is to get a great pair of cropped pants that look just as good worn full-length. That may not be necessary with these “short” crops, designed especially by Aritzia to fit 5 foot 3 and under. 

 

TkeesTkees pants, $197, tkees.com
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This Canadian label makes the slim flip flops fashion devotees love; the lounge gear is great, too, for sleek WFH options (and easy to serge hems, if you need to shorten). 

 

AritiziaAritzia Babaton coat, $350, aritzia.com
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If you splurge on one item, make it a fitted coat, which will tie your outfit together and finish your look with polish. Finding a good fit (and getting it altered, if needed) is important for petites. Aritzia always does great coats, true to size.  

 

J.CrewJ.Crew blazer, $335, jcrew.com
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J.Crew is a time-tested go-to for both preppy chic and properly scaled petites sizing. You are never going to regret buying a classic blazer. 

 

 

J.CrewJ. Crew shirt, $117, jcrew.com 
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Good fitted shirts are hard to find, especially if you want the option to wear them untucked. J.Crew petites delivers another top-notch classic buy. 

 

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