When it comes to skincare hype, our motto is “we’ll believe it when we see it,” but there’s no doubt retinol delivers the results to back up its hall-of-fame status. “I first learned about retinol when I was working for a dermatologist years ago. The other aestheticians there had the most perfect skin, and I found out they had been using retinol forever,” says Shani Darden, Hollywood facialist to celebrities like Jessica Alba, Kelly Rowland and Shay Mitchell. “I think it’s the best anti-aging ingredient you can use, other than sunscreen.”

If you’ve never dabbled before, or you’re still searching for the best retinol cream for your skin, read on for all the facts you need to know.

It’s old school—tried and true

What is retinol, you ask? First, a quick lingo lesson: Retinol belongs to a category of skincare ingredients known as retinoids, which are vitamin A derivatives that vary in potency. Generally, you’ll find gentler retinol in over-the-counter products, while the stronger stuff is available by prescription. The best-known retinoid, Retin-A (also known as tretinoin), was originally approved as a prescription acne-fighter when it launched in 1971, but its wrinkle-smoothing skills soon became obvious, too. Today, retinoids are considered among the most legit, well-researched anti-aging ingredients around.

It’s the ultimate multi-tasker

The question isn’t “What does it do?” but rather “What doesn’t it do?” “Retinol is kind of the fix-all for so many concerns. It’s such a powerhouse in addressing skin texture and skin tone, and helping with fine lines, wrinkles, the appearance of pores and hyperpigmentation. It builds collagen and reverses sun damage,” explains Dr. Dendy Engelman, Elizabeth Arden’s NYC-based consulting dermatologist and celebrity skin guru, who has worked with clients like Sofia Vergara. “So, when a patient comes in with a concern, more often than not, it can be addressed by a vitamin A derivative like retinol or prescription retinoid.”

Retinol formulas are better than ever

Many people assume they can’t tolerate retinol because it’ll be too harsh and drying, but the latest generation of products aren’t your mom’s Retin-A. “The formulas are much more cosmetically elegant and much more universally tolerated,” says Dr. Engelman, who has been able to get every patient who wanted to use the ingredient onto it—it’s just a matter of finding the best retinol cream for them.

But this isn’t as straightforward as glancing at the concentration of retinol in any given product. “It’s the whole recipe—the other parts of the formula—that makes absorption more bioavailable or more effective,” explains Dr. Engelman, adding that ingredients can also mitigate side effects, like dryness. For instance, the new Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum features retinol in encapsulated form (to ensure it stays potent) as well as moisturizing ceramides (to cushion skin).

Slow is the way to go

It takes time for your skin to adjust to retinol, so to minimize your risk of potential side effects, like redness, excessive dryness or peeling, begin by applying it just once a week, says Darden. If your skin stays happy, you can graduate to twice a week, and if you can still tolerate it, you can add a day each week after that. Avoid using another exfoliating product—say, a glycolic acid serum—when you use your retinol; instead, alternate nights. “That’s not to say some people can’t handle exfoliating and then using retinol, but not many people can. It can cause a lot of irritation,” explains Darden.

Generally, you want to apply your retinol treatment at night onto clean, dry skin, but if you want to blunt the effects of a stronger version, you could use a bit of moisturizer before and after. “It’s like putting a little barrier over your skin, so you’re able to use the retinol more,” explains Darden. Her advice if you do experience redness or harshness: pause the retinol, calm your face with pure aloe, and let the irritation run its course before resuming your treatment.

If you can’t use retinol, try this

So, given its broad benefits, is there anyone who shouldn’t use retinol? “If you have psoriasis on your face or eczema, you should not use it,” cautions Darden, who also wouldn’t recommend it to people with exceptionally sensitive skin. Also, you should avoid retinol if you’re pregnant.

In these situations, you could consider bakuchiol, the currently buzzy, plant-based rival to retinol. “It’s not the ‘gold standard,’ but for those who truly cannot tolerate retinol, it’s a great alternative,” says Dr. Engelman, who also considers bakuchiol a useful transitional option for pregnant women.

Presenting some of our favourite retinol products:

  • The miracle drops

    Designed to be a once- or twice-weekly booster, a few drops of this anti-aging night treatment can be patted onto skin, or mixed with your fave moisturizer.

    Rodial Retinol Drops 10% Retinol Rejuvenating Concentrate, $115, shoppersdrugmart.ca

  • The Hollywood favourite

    A bestseller hailed as the best retinol serum by multiple celebrities, this is what model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley calls her “secret weapon to flawless skin.”

    Shani Darden Retinol Reform, $122, sephora.com

  • The travel companion

    Consider this the best retinol serum for frequent flyers: Just pack a few travel-friendly capsules, which also keep the formula fresh.

    Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum, $106, elizabetharden.com

  • The drugstore gem

    This skin-smoothing and brightening cream balances two types of vitamin A—retinol and the milder retinyl propionate—to minimize any chance of irritation.

    Olay Regenerist Retinol24 Night Moisturizer, $44, shoppersdrugmart.ca

  • The facial in a jar

    Use this as a wash-off facial or an overnight treatment to reap the benefits of retinol (encapsulated for gentleness), plus antioxidant-rich avocado oil and avocado extract.

    Glow Recipe Avocado Melt Retinol Sleeping Mask, $66, sephora.ca

  • The starter pack

    If you’re looking for the best retinol cream for newbies, this formula packs an introductory dosage, alongside skin soothers like chamomile-derived bisabolol.

    SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3, $70, skinceuticals.ca

  • The gentle giant

    Tasmanian berry extract calms skin and hyaluronic acid helps hydrate, while the encapsulated retinol goes to work in reducing signs of aging.

    Reversa Retin[A]list Cream, $60, reversa.ca

  • The multi-tasking oil

    This feels like a lightweight, hydrating facial oil, but works as a concentrated overnight wrinkle-fighter.

    Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Oil, $39, shoppersdrugmart.ca

  • The sleeper hit

    This overnight treatment keeps skin at ease with time-released retinol and soothing niacinamide, honey and sodium hyaluronate.

    AlumierMD Retinol Resurfacing Serum 1.0, $122, alumiermd.ca

 

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