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The Proper Way to Shave Body Hair According to a Derm

Spoiler: You’re probably doing a few things wrong

When you’re looking to get your legs or armpits smooth, there’s no easier or more affordable solution than shaving. No pricey laser, painful waxing or stinky depilatory creams needed. Just a few passes of a razor and boom, you’re done. 

As it turns out though, a lot of us don’t actually know the correct way to shave. For example, do you keep your razor in your shower? That’s a huge no-no, says Dr. Monica Li, a double board-certified dermatologist at Vancouver Skin MD clinic. Ahead, the expert breaks down everything we need to know to ensure silky, bump-free results.

Dampen your skin

“Moistened skin and hair are softer and help to facilitate the glide of a razor,” says Li. That’s why you should never dry shave as it greatly increases the risk of razor burn. That’s also why it’s preferable to shave near the end of a shower, once the water has sufficiently dampened your skin and hairs. Additionally, waiting until the end of a shower helps remove excess oil and dead skin cells from the skin’s surface that otherwise might clog a razor.

Choose the right razor

The number of blades isn’t just a marketing tactic, it makes a big difference as more blades (you ideally want a razor with more than three, says Li) allows for a closer shave. It also minimizes friction on the skin surface that contributes to irritation. “A pivoting head is another important feature of a razor so that it can adjust to curvatures of body areas requiring shaving.”

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Use a shaving product

To prevent skin irritation, it’s a good idea to apply something to help facilitate the glide of a razor. It could be a shaving cream, gel or mousse, but body wash or even bar soap can also do the trick, says the dermatologist. The upside of products explicitly made for shaving is that they help to better see what areas have already been shaved to avoid double passes, which can increase skin irritation. “Shaving products may also integrate certain ingredients to improve hydration afterwards, such as aloe vera, or to help reduce folliculitis [when a hair follicle becomes infected or inflamed], such as benzoyl peroxide,” adds Li. “Try to choose shaving products with little to no alcohol in them as this may dry skin out after shaving, causing it to feel itchy or tight.” A fragrance-free product will also reduce potential skin irritation and possible allergic contact dermatitis. Afterward, make sure to thoroughly rinse off any remaining shaving product as it may cause dryness, redness and itchiness following shaving.

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Aveeno Skin Relief Shave Gel, $10, shopperdrugmart.ca Photo: Shoppers Drug Mart
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Shave mindfully

First of all, make sure to take your time when shaving as rushing can lead to nicks and cuts. Secondly, remember to always shave in the direction of the hair growth as the opposite can cause razor bumps and burns, as well as ingrown hairs. You also want to rinse your razor after each swipe on the skin.

Keep your razor clean

“Razors need to be rinsed and cleaned following each use to avoid buildup of microbes that can infect skin when shaving,” says Li, who advises using soap and water to do this. Once you’ve cleaned your razor, make sure to store it in a dry place like a bathroom cabinet to prevent bacteria from growing on it. “The temperature and humidity in the shower can cause microbes to thrive on the razor and increase risk of infection,” Li explains. 

Change the blades regularly

Razor blades should be changed—or disposable razors thrown away—based on frequency of use, says Li. The frequency of shaving will depend on personal preference as well as the speed at which hair grows for different people. “Typically, blades should be changed after five to seven shaves to prevent dullness.” That’s important because dull blades can increase friction and irritation.

Moisturize after shaving

“Newly shaved skin should always be cared for with the application of a gentle moisturizer to help protect it as the outermost layer of the skin is also removed during shaving,” says Li. Moisturizing also reduces possible irritation and dryness.

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Soothe razor burns and ingrown hairs

Both razor burns and ingrown hairs can cause red, irritated skin. In both cases, avoid further shaving the affected area until the skin has completely healed. For razor burns, steer clear of products containing alcohol or fragrance as these will only worsen irritation. You can apply a cool wet washcloth to provide relief as well as a topical corticosteroid cream available in lower potencies over-the-counter, or in higher concentrations by prescription. Smoothing on a gentle moisturizer with soothing ingredients such as colloidal oatmeal or aloe vera can also help calm the skin.

For ingrown hairs (a.k.a. razor bumps), a topical corticosteroid cream can help reduce inflammation and provide relief from itchiness or tenderness of the affected site. Most importantly: Do not pick! “This increases the risk of infection, scarring and dyspigmentation as well as time for ingrown hairs to resolve,” says Li. “If a razor burn or ingrown hairs do not clear up after several days despite at-home interventions, see your physician as other treatments such as oral antibiotics may be needed.”

Of course, adds Li, when it comes to razor burns and bumps, prevention is your best strategy. Some simple things that make a big difference: Try to always shave in the direction of the hair growth, avoid pulling your skin taut while shaving, replace razor blades frequently and use shaving cream, gel or mousse to facilitate the glide of the razor. Follow these tips and you’ll get a nice smooth shave every time.

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