How Do I Treat the Dark Spots and Freckles I Got This Summer?

From lasers to peels to skincare, three experts tell us how they course correct sun damaged skin

Ask The Kit is the real-talk advice column you never knew you needed. Every month, writer Ingrie Williams answers your pressing beauty questions. How can I deal with frizz? Why is my skin freaking out? Send your Qs to [email protected]

“I spent a lot of time in the sun this summer, and now I’m noticing more freckles, sun spots and dried out skin texture. Is there anything I can do this fall to reverse the sun damage?” —Catherine, Toronto

Unlike a Beyoncé Renaissance Tour t-shirt, sun damage is summer’s most unwanted souvenir. And just like everyone’s concert clips posted on IG, it can be real hard to avoid. “Trips to the cottage and time outside with friends are fun and great for the soul, but they can take a toll on the skin,” says Dr. Sophie Bourgeois, co-founder of Park Medical Aesthetics in Toronto. “It’s not uncommon to experience our skin being less smooth and plump by the end of summer.” 

Even if you haven’t been cottage-hopping, you might well have picked up some sun damage. “It’s a misconception that only long periods of UV exposure are harmful,” adds Dr. Shoghi Nikoo, the other half of the physician-led Park Medical Aesthetics team. “Short periods of sun exposure accumulate throughout the day, so even a quick jaunt from the TTC to the office, then out for a coffee, then back to the TTC, then out for dinner later, can really add up.”

Even if you’re on top of your SPF game, it can be challenging to come out of the season completely unscathed. “People still think if they don’t burn it is safe to suntan,” says Dr. Nowell Solish, a Toronto-based specialist in cosmetic dermatology and dermatologic surgery. “Any tan you get is your body’s response to excessive sun exposure and increases the risk of skin cancer.” 

The bottom line is that the sun is powerful. For all of the energizing boost a blissfully bright day can provide, ultraviolet (UV) light exposure can leave a mess of cellular changes behind, disrupting skin cells’ ability to regenerate and replicate properly, “leading to poorer-quality cells over time and, in the worst cases, precancerous and cancerous changes,” says Bourgeois. Blue light from devices can do this too. “Exposure to any of these wavelengths of light can cause the skin to produce less elastic collagen, leading to wrinkles and skin laxity.”

UV exposure can also interfere with your skin’s melanin production, which is the pigment that gives your skin its tone, and trigger the development of hyperpigmentation. “The skin will try to protect itself by making pigment,” says Solish, “This tan may fade or may lead to permanent brown marks on the skin often misinterpreted as ‘liver spots.’”

The sun can also impact oil production. “In the first few days of sun, the skin tends to dry. After days or weeks of sun exposure, the skin tends to increase its oil production to deal with the dryness and the skin can become oily, which is why some people’s acne at first improves with sun exposure and then worsens after a few weeks,” Solish says.

OK, now that we’ve got that fascinating and slightly terrifying explanation covered, let’s talk solutions! The shorter, greyer days of fall and winter are the ideal time to embark on this type of beauty journey, because less UV beating down creates a better environment for overcoming the damage and maintaining the results. In-office treatments will deliver the most significant results, and at-home skincare is crucial too. Here’s what the experts recommend.

Lasers for sun damage

“I first like to use the Clear + Brilliant laser. It’s good for mild damage and melasma often seen in younger women,” says Solish. The gentle non-invasive treatment uses fractional laser technology to target skin’s upper layers, replacing damaged skin with fresh, healthier-looking skin. It requires minimal downtime and typically leaves you with mild redness and/or swelling that fades away after a few hours, followed by a short period of slight dryness, peeling or flaking. Within a few days, a softer, brighter and more even-toned complexion should be noticeable.

Other laser resurfacing treatments with minimal downtime may be the right option. “Fractionated erbium devices, like Fraxel, can be used and have been shown in studies to significantly help sun-damaged skin,” says Solish. “In those who just have broken vessels and redness, a pulsed dye laser can be very effective at reducing these blemishes.” 

For those with more significant changes to the skin, including more freckles and broken blood vessels, Dr. Solish considers an intense pulsed light (IPL) treatment—if the client is an ideal candidate. “It’s not for use on patients with darker skin tones or those with melasma,” he warns.

IPL is Bourgeois’ preferred treatment for targeting sun damage. “It works similarly to how the colour of any item left in the sun for too long will fade away—just much, much faster,” she says, citing one IPL device named Lumecca. “It targets pigment in the skin, destroying the pigment molecules themselves, which evens the skin tone, reduces appearance of hyperpigmentation and sunspots, and improves the appearance of redness and visible blood vessels associated with rosacea.” Again, it’s not suitable for those with tanned or deeper skin.

Regardless of your skin tone, it’s vital to seek out an experienced professional who offers a range of options, is well-versed in treating the full spectrum of melanin profiles and offers an in-depth consultation to discuss the appropriate treatment for you.

Peels for sun damage

Chemical peels are a more all-access option that can yield results. “They’re an amazing starting place for addressing hyperpigmentation,” says Nikoo. “They exfoliate the skin, removing the dead, damaged and hyperpigmented cells from the surface. Following a chemical peel, we apply serums that downregulate melanocytes, further reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation.”

Professional peels offered in clinics contain higher concentrations of active ingredients than are allowed in over-the-counter versions. “There are at-home peels and similar treatments on the market, however we strongly recommend caution if you’re considering using these,” says Dr. Nikoo, “They can have adverse effects for some people and may not be effective for your particular concerns.” Consulting a dermatologist or aesthetic provider is the best way to find out if a certain peel will get you the results you’re looking for.

Microneedling for sun damage

Another minimally invasive option, microneedling uses tiny needles to puncture the skin and create microinjuries that prompt the body’s natural repair response to kick in. “It improves skin function and appearance, including downregulating melanocytes and improving collagen production,” says Nikoo. “As a part of the treatment, we’ll apply a serum specially designed to reduce hyperpigmentation. This allows the microneedling device to deliver the serum directly to the layer of the skin that needs it most, making it much more effective than simply applying the serum to the surface of the skin.”

Microneedling is suitable for all skin tones, but not necessarily for all skin types, at all times. “It should be avoided during active flares of eczema, rosacea, or acne,” Nikoo says.

At-home skincare for sun damage

Whether or not you can swing a professional treatment, daily skincare is essential to effectively deal with sun damage.  “We tell our clients that 80 per cent of the work on their skin is done at home,” says Bourgeois.

With the right steps, achieving smoother texture and more brightness is highly doable. But know that getting rid of serious hyperpigmentation through topicals alone is a) tough, b) takes time and c) may not be totally possible. That said, it’s still worth pursuing for your future face: With diligence you should see some improvement of existing dark spots while also keeping new ones from forming.

Dr. Solish’s preventative skincare list is short and sweet. “At home, use sunscreen and retinoids,” he says. Wearing SPF every day, year-round is a must. Nikoo recommends mineral SPF formulas with the active ingredient zinc oxide. “It has the added benefit of helping reduce inflammation, reducing the appearance of redness and visible blood vessels in some people,” he says. “If you’re looking for a tinted SPF, look for a brand that uses iron oxide to pigment their products—these will help protect against blue-light radiation, giving you even more benefit than a regular SPF can.”

Bourgeois also likes to include antioxidants vitamin C and niacinamide in the mix, especially the latter if you already have hyperpigmentation. “Retinoids and vitamin C reduce cellular and DNA damage, and niacinamide inhibits transfer of melanin from melanocytes to other skin cells, reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, and skin laxity.”

Sun damage may have snuck up on you this year, but the power to course correct it— and stay a step ahead from here on out—lies in your hands. 

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Skincare to combat sun damage

 

The savvy SPF

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Vichy Capital Soleil Ultra-Fluid Mineral Tinted Lotion SPF 60, $36, vichy.ca Photo: Vichy
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For hefty UV protection that feels weightless, this tinted mineral sunscreen contains titanium dioxide and has a serum-like texture that quickly absorbs into skin, leaving a non-greasy finish.

The retinoid serum 

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Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum, $92, clinique.ca Photo: Clinique
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Formulated with a powerful retinoid, a host of peptides and hyaluronic acid, this hardworking serum aims to deliver smoother, stronger skin that’s also deeply hydrated and plump.

The niacinamide booster

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Eau Thermale Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 Concentrated Plumping Serum, $70 (on sale for $56), shoppersdrugmart.ca. Photo: Eau Thermale Avène
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Supercharged with six percent niacinamide (also known as vitamin B3), this daily regenerative treatment only has seven other ingredients, and works to target all signs of aging, including tightening.

The antioxidant elixir

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Alphascience Tannic [CF] Serum, $162, alphasciencemd.ca Photo: Alphascience
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Suitable for dry and sensitive skin types, this blend of 10% L-ascorbic acid (a.k.a vitamin C) with tannic and ferulic acids helps reduce dark spots and redness while stimulating collagen for firmer skin.

 

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