Abandoned cologne bottles form a baleful rogues’ gallery inside too many medicine cabinets. Impulse purchases on the wrong side of the impulse seem guilty of something. Taking up space? Voicing an implied critique of their owner’s self-control? Smell like last year’s ambition? In truth, the trouble with colognes is that there are so many conveying so many messages that it becomes hard to commit. Men move on. They dabble. They treat smell as the unserious sense.
But smell is serious business. Scent evokes memory and gives off powerful vibes. And scent is non-optional. Men choose between having a signature scent and smelling off themselves, which is also a perfume of a sort. Better to buy a bottle. We’ve rounded up our top 10 men’s cologne picks below, and be sure to check out our in depth review of D.S. & Durga (honorable mention) here.
What To Know About Cologne
Cologne verbiage is confounding, but there only a few things buyers need to know about pricing, performance, and nomenclature.
The price of a cologne is often reflective of the product’s quality and concentration of raw materials (perfume oils). The higher the concentration of oils, the more expensive the fragrance. And usually, higher grades will last longer, project further, and have greater sillage (that invisible trail that follows its wearer), but not always. As a baseline, try to remember the following classifications, in order of increasing concentration:
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- Eau Fraiche: This one has a low percentage of perfume oils, typically under 3%.
- Eau de Cologne: EDCs have 3-5% concentrations. Also, although the industry uses the term “cologne” to refer to men’s fragrances, it no longer has anything to do with the perfume concentrations. In fact, most options these days fall into the next two categories. “Cologne” is just a catch-all term.
- Eau de Toilette: An EDT usually has 5-8% perfume oil concentrations.
- Eau de Parfum: EDPs can have between 8-15% concentration.
- Extrait/Parfum: These are the high-grade options, sometimes as concentrated as 40%. Even a “Pure Parfum” won’t usually be 100%, as applying pure oils to the skin can be dangerous; they still need to be safely diluted.
If one brand is selling an EDT and an EDP, chances are their EDP will be more expensive given the higher concentration of ingredients. From one brand to the next, however, things will vary since some will use better quality (or better sourced) ingredients, the bottle design could influence things, and of course certain brands will charge more simply because they can.
The Best Men’s Colognes: At a Glance
What the Experts Say About Finding the Best Cologne for You
For help finding a go-to scent — be it a signature choice or for special occasions — SPY spoke with two experts on the topic: Matthew J. Sanchez, founder and perfumer at Matteo Parfums (whose debut scent Celadawn is itself a standout), and Franco Wright, co-founder of online niche fragrance store Luckyscent and brick-and-mortar Scent Bar fragrance boutiques in NYC and LA.
Wright uses the term “Fragrance Wardrobe” to describe not just one’s scent collection, but a curation of different olfactory moods in bottles on a shelf. No scent is going to apply to 100% of life’s moments, so it’s critical to have options even if one becomes a staple.
The playful way to approach fragrance discovery is to look at fragrance families. There are roughly a dozen agreed-upon categories. The classics being:
- Spicy
- Floral
- Woody
- Citrus
- Aromatic
And others leading with a more unique, specific note, like:
- Musky
- Gourmand
- Patchouli
- Leathery
Wright suggests sniffing toward a category in line with personal presentation. Wearers should consider whether they want to be perceived as approachable, chic, assertive, optimistic, and something else entirely.
“Increasingly, men are interested in exploring categories that might have once been outside of their comfort zones,” Wright says. (It also helps that the industry is largely moving in the direction of unisex wear and marketing.)
“Think of colognes and perfumes as swords, not shields,” says Sanchez. “Fragrances aren’t necessarily meant to change or even ‘protect’ you, your persona, or your ego. Rather, they’re like swords, coming in all shapes, materials, and sizes, all with the same purpose: to help the wielder feel powerful and more confident in their conquest.”
The Best Colognes for Men
The Experts’ Picks
Paco Rabanne 1 in a Million EDT
This mass-market pick came from the niche perfumer Sanchez himself: “It’s a go-to staple in my wardrobe that I feel is a unanimous win for the majority of wearers,” he says. “1 in a Million is a masterful balance of amber notes, hints of spice and perky notes, with the beautiful layers of sweet tonka bean and pale woods that are practically evocative of confidence (and is borderline edible).”
Dior Homme Intense EDP
It’s hard to fail with any scent in the “Dior Homme” family or from the Dior house. This mass-appeal pick from Wright is harder and harder to come by, so grab a couple bottles just in case. “Intense is elegant and understated, and I appreciate how truly unisex it feels for a mass-market masculine fragrance,” he says. While it may feel more like a “night on the town” type fragrance, it doesn’t polarize any other occasions thanks to its thoughtful balance of woody, floral, and musky notes.
Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascese EDP
The joy of buying a niche “best seller” is that it’s rare, and therefore unlikely that someone else will be wearing it at the office, bar, or on the street. But trust us here: Thousands of folks with exquisite taste are sporting the smoky-woody Bois d’Ascese by Naomi Goodsir, which happens to be Wright’s favorite niche scent at the moment. “It captures the real smell of a campfire, [proving] how a fragrance can tap into childhood memories by transporting you back to a specific time and place.”
SPY.com Picks
Tom Ford Beau de Jour EDP
Key Notes: Lavender, patchouli, amber, moss
How It Wears: Beau de Jour should be an everyday scent-de-jour, thanks to a head-turning blend of lavender and patchouli. Those two notes prove that opposites attract, and while it’s far from “safe”, which is a fate many signature options endure; rather, BdJ’s optimistic brilliance is unique in its broad appeal.
Arquiste Misfit EDP
Key Notes: Patchouli, amber, lavender, bergamot
How It Wears: Misfit is sophisticated but not self-serious. Get ready to tell at least one inquisitive person per day “who you are wearing” — but encourage them to shop Arquiste’s entire roster of indie-award-winning scents. Side note: See how similar this roster of notes is to the previous pick? Proof that two things can look similar on paper and have completely different expressions.
Fulton & Roark Ramble Solid Cologne
Key Notes: Balsam wood, elemi resin, oakmoss
How It Wears: Clean, confident, and sexy (but restrained at that). For those looking to smell fantastic but keep things low-key, choose a solid cologne like the head-clearing Ramble, one of Fulton & Roark’s many exquisite solid options. It’s applied to the pulse point of each wrist and formulated to last all day.
Amouage Interlude Man EDP
Key Notes: Amber, frankincense, resin, leather, smoke, sandalwood
How It Wears: This scent can go all night, and might suggest that the wearer does as well — so don it with that happy warning. It’s a real alpha male in its class.; though Interlude Man is an EDP by nature, it could compete with some of the higher-grade Extraits and Parfums when it comes to longevity, sillage, and projection.
Maison Margiela REPLICA Sailing Day EDT
Key Notes: Aquatic accord, coriander, iris
How It Wears: This fresh, powdery-aquatic scent instantly transports to the Greek islands with a fresh, sea breeze scent that sits lightly. It’s perfect for the first few sunny days of spring filled with elative hope for finally better weather.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Silver EDP
Key Notes: Juniper berries, musk, nutmeg, amber woods
How It Wears: Here’s the olfactive equivalent to a soft hoodie on a rainy day; a fragrance that smells as delicious as a gin & tonic tastes. (Yeah, it is being huffed right now as the words are typed; goosebumps appear, arm hair stands on end. Zen.)
Kilian Angels’ Share EDP
Key Notes: Cognac, tonka, oak
How It Wears: The most delectable, savory pick of the pack, Angels’ Share embodies the best top-shelf smoky cognac with a dessert-like tonka finish. And speaking of dessert, it will have the wearer both skipping that last course to make room for … well, another round of course.
Frequently Asked Questions About Cologne
What Is the Correct Way to Apply Fragrance?
To get the most mileage and best projection out of any scent, apply 1-2 sprays to each of the pulse points on the wrists and neck, from about six inches away. This will help “warm up” the scent and magnify it. Fragrance can be applied elsewhere, like to clothing or (very subtly) into the hair, but know that it won’t last as long or cast as far. (And go easy; it can also stain clothing and dry the hair depending on the formula.)
How Much Should You Spend on Cologne?
While budget will vary from one person to the next, the most important thing to know when buying cologne is that a higher price doesn’t always mean higher quality or greater appeal. Fragrances that last all day, and project themselves further, tend to cost more due to the higher concentration of oils. Beyond that, price is often dictated by size and materials used, so there is little consistency when it comes to average costs. However, it is entirely possible to find a large (3.4-oz.) bottle around or under $100.
How Long Does Cologne Last?
Usually, a fragrance’s longevity is determined by its concentration of oils. In increasing order of oil concentration: an Eau Fraiche and Eau de Cologne (EDC) will only last an hour or few; an Eau de Toilette (EDT) will last slightly longer; an Eau de Parfum (EDP) will last half a day or more, and an Extrait or Parfum should last most of the day or more.
Can Guys Wear Floral Colognes?
It’s the 21st century… bro. Almost all scents (men’s, women’s, and unisex) have floral notes in them. We double-dog dare you to wear a floral-forward one, though. Le Labo Rose 31 is a mighty fine place to start.
What Is the Best Men’s Colon?
The best colon for you is the one you were born with; the others are crappy and difficult to install. If you’re looking for the best men’s fragrance, though, then it’s spelled c-o-l-o-g-n-e.
