Caguama (turtle stew) is one of Baja’s many gastronomic inheritances from the states of Sinaloa and Sonora. The dish is prohibited due to the endangered reptile’s protected status and has mostly been replaced by caguamanta (manta ray stew). But a street cart in El Sauzal serves a magnificent stew of smoked opah that local star chef Diego Hernandez swears is “closer to the real caguama” than any manta ray stew you’ll find on Mexico’s Pacific Coast. The cart, parked in a home garage, combines gelatinous fin, belly, top loin, and breast, all garnished with a sauce of mustard, red wine, and habanero. El Güero offers the stew along with tostadas of ground opah pate, a style of ceviche typically found in Ensenada.

Ask any Baja chef where to go for Ensenada’s world-famous tempura-battered fish and shrimp tacos, and they’ll send you to El Nuevo Jalisciense. It’s where the chefs go when entertaining their chef friends visiting the region. The restaurant, along a lonesome strip of businesses on the way to the tourist zone, consists of two plastic benches and a half dozen seats in an L around a convex comal. Cooks deep-fry dogfish and local shrimp in a light, mustard-colored batter before wrapping them in white corn tortillas and handing them over the counter. Complete them yourself with Mexican cream or mayo, pico de gallo, cilantro dressing, and red or green salsa, but use just enough to appreciate the fine seafood and well-seasoned breading.

Nights in Baja California mean fire-roasted carne asada and tacos adobada (the regional name for al pastor tacos). Both are here at El Paisa, along with steamed beef head, all served on corn tortillas dressed with mild red sauce, onions, cilantro, and generous scoops of creamy guacamole, The result is a Baja style of taco that you’ll find from Los Angeles all the way down to Cabo. You can also get the meats in other familiar formats like quesatacos (made with melted cheese), quesadillas, mulitas (meat and melted cheese between two corn tortillas), and tortas.

Javier Martinez’s inviting patio, located next to Revolution Park, is a brilliant choice for a glass of Mexican wine — there’s even a Contra wine shop attached — paired with modern Baja surf and turf delights. Order local shellfish, Baja-style ceviches dressed with a touch of soy sauce, creamy seafood risottos, and steaks cooked over an open flame. Share your feast with friends, along with several bottles of Mexican wine, and you’ll feel like you’re throwing a party on your own deck at home. If you’re any good at petanque (boules), grab your wineglass and head to the court for a toss. Maybe you can join the Mexican national team, because this is their headquarters.

If you’re not able to make it over to La Cava de Marcelo in Ojos Negros for a cheese tasting at the largest cheese cave in Latin America, Casa Marcelo offers an easier way to try the brand’s fresh, aged, and snacking cheeses. The breakfast menu features Mexican classics — chilaquiles, a variety of egg dishes, and machaca (beef jerky) — and for lunch there are Ensenada-style ceviches, tiraditos, and roasted fish. Or just grab a glass of wine and order a cheese board of Casa Marcelo’s signature Ramonetti cheeses, made from the milk of Holstein cows on its ranch.

As opposed to niche specialists, you’ll find an unusually wide variety of local clams, mussels, and oysters in this contemporary shellfish bar located near the jello shots end of the tourist zone. One of Ensenada’s elevated seafood eateries, La Concheria also features a short list of craft beers (and national beers), and young, acidic, mineral white wines and light rosés. Try the delightfully salty oysters, chocolate and Pismo clams, and Manila clams or mussels steamed in local wine and herbs. Round out your order with a cool, crisp ceviche dressed with Persian cucumber, cherry tomatoes, and purple onions.

A rustic brick-walled back bar opens up to a greenery-filled patio at chef David Castro Hussong (Fauna) and chef Ana Holquin’s well-designed hangout that perfectly captures the beach chic trend and Tulum vibes. Locals come to the stunning space for signature cocktails like Rey Flamingo, a refreshing summer cocktail made with sidra, and a broad selection of wines from Valle de Guadalupe. Bar snacks include flatbread with crab claws, chicharrón de pescado with tortillas and salsas, and a tostada de atún rubbed with chile pasilla mixe. 

Beer and peanuts aren’t exactly a gastronomic experience worth seeking out. Still, you’ll never forget you left your footprint in sawdust and peanut shells on these hallowed saloon floors. Not much has changed since German immigrant John Hussong took over this bar in 1892. Hussong’s is one of the bars claiming to have invented the margarita, though you’d never know it after ordering one. The margaritas are okay, the beer is cold, and the bandera — a trio of lime juice, sangrita, and tequila — helps the mass-produced tequila go down. But once the bassist in the ranchera band snaps his noisy, nylon strings to kick off Pink Floyd’s “The Wall” or the Eagles’ “Hotel California,” you can’t help but smile while sipping the night away.

Every seafood cart in Ensenada has a specialty. At this tiny stand, you’ll never go wrong with an order of campechana (mixed seafood cocktail) or local fish ceviche made from ground tuna. But in Mexico’s seafood capital, it’s all about luxurious shellfish from nearby waters. Find Mariscos El Gordito on a quiet corner at the edge of the tourist zone, then order a prepared clam, dressed with diced tomato, cucumber, and purple onion, topped with sliced avocado. Whether you get a white, Pismo, reyna, or chocolate clam, ask for it without ketchup (a common local topping) to enjoy the delicate flavors of the exquisite shellfish.

Get your Puerto Nuevo-style lobster fix away from the barkers and touristic town where the dish gets its name. One of a pair of hidden gems in the Black Market (along with Muelle Tres), La Cocedora de Langosta only serves the dish when the lobster is fresh and in season. You’ll also find modern Baja-style ceviches, aguachiles (seafood in spicy lime juice), and soy-sauce-dressed sashimi and tiraditos (Peruvian-style raw seafood in spicy lime juice) made with fine seafood like abalone, geoduck, or Pismo clams sourced from local estuaries, farms, and divers.

The beers are superb, notably the saison called Hann Zomer, the lighter Baja-style IPA titled Perro del Mar, and the personal favorite of chef Krista Velasco, Vaquita Marina — an American pale ale named after the endangered porpoise. The chef’s playful gastropub menu includes fine versions of American fast-food snacks like onion rings, deep-fried pickles, and a variety of chicken wings, as well as Baja-style ceviche, seafood tostadas, and tempura-battered oysters. Order some LA-style Korean tacos and wash it down with a glass of Harry Polanco, a red ale full of herbs and citrus.

Sabina Bandera’s first brick-and-mortar spot isn’t just a sit-down version of her tostada, shellfish, and seafood cocktail stand. Here you’ll find an expanded menu of barra caliente (hot bar) classics like shrimp albondigas, seafood pozole from the cook’s home state of Guerrero, and a smoked oyster-stuffed chile guero taco. Slide along the counter cafeteria-style, order some ceviche tostadas, a Baja fish taco made with Bandera’s family recipe, and a bowl of clam chowder brewed with local mollusks. Pair your meal with local craft beer from Wendlandt or house wines made by the Mexican wine master Hugo D’ Acosta.

After a walk through the Black Market (Ensenada’s fish market), turn the corner for a delightful lunch of contemporary Baja cuisine paired with local wines, Mexican craft beers, and fine mezcal. The tuna ceviche highlights the kitchen’s regional approach to seafood with quality local fish, citrus, ginger, and soy sauce — one of several Asian condiments used in Baja California cuisine. Enjoy the quiet retreat from the nearby tourist throng as you snack on seafood rice, pescadillas (fish quesadillas), and local mussels steamed in a mix of green chiles, along with one of the tasty white wines sold by the glass.

When his cannery business began to wane, thick-mustached Marco Antonio transformed his industrial plant into a restaurant. This unique Baja seafood taco destination is now known for its variety of seafood stew tacos and creative salsas. There are almost 20 different tacos, including a shrimp chile relleno taco, shrimp in chipotle, tuna machaca, salmon belly, and of course, very fine versions of regional beer-battered fish and shrimp tacos. Make haste and head to the condiment bar to finish your tacos with tempting salsas, including fiery toasted chiles in vegetable oil, creamy cilantro and chipotle dressings, cured habaneros and onions, and simple, colorful salsas of pureed chiles with touches of salt and water.

Slide along the antique wooden bar at this former warehouse tucked away across from Ensenada’s shipyard, and order one of the best gin and tonics you’ll ever have, made with citrus, Japanese cucumber, wild fennel, and Hendrick’s gin. Then ask for locally farmed Kumamoto oysters, both fresh, and grilled with Ramonetti cheese and tarragon, followed by fried abalone and seaweed, an ode to fish and chips. Either pairs well with a glass of local white wine selected by chef Benito Molina, who’s a pioneer of modern Mexican food, a visionary of contemporary Baja California cuisine, and a damned good sommelier. Once you make your way to a table, continue to imbibe with iconic dishes: a taco of the day, which might consist of octopus, chicharron, and refried black beans; fish of the day, that Baja classic, made with rockfish; or Molina’s riffs on traditional Baja California quail, a plate of tender breasts with poached quail eggs.

For nearly three decades Joaquín “El Coyote” has been serving up top-quality shellfish, Ensenada-style ceviche, and seafood cocktails loaded with a variety of seafood at the peak of freshness. Tostadas spread with finely chopped tuna ceviche are delicious on their own, but the local fashion is to add chopped shrimp, sea snail, or local clams on top. Look for briny oysters, umami-rich blood clams, known a pata de mula, and luxury clams like chocolata, pismo, or reina, either au natural, or prepared with diced red onion, cucumber, tomato, lime juice, and cilantro, plus salsas. This is also the place to go for seafood cocktails made with a light but flavorful cocktail sauce that highlights the seafood.