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. 2024 Apr 27;16(5):595.
doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics16050595.

Development and Efficacy Evaluation of Innovative Cosmetic Formulations with Caryocar brasiliense Fruit Pulp Oil Encapsulated in Freeze-Dried Liposomes

Letícia Kakuda  1 , Patrícia M B G Maia Campos  1 , Wanderley P Oliveira  1
Affiliations

Development and Efficacy Evaluation of Innovative Cosmetic Formulations with Caryocar brasiliense Fruit Pulp Oil Encapsulated in Freeze-Dried Liposomes

Letícia Kakuda et al. Pharmaceutics. .

Abstract

Encapsulation and drying technologies allow the engineering of innovative raw materials from plant biodiversity, with potential applications in pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. Lipid-based nanoencapsulation stands out for its efficiency, ease of production, and versatility in encapsulating substances, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic. This work aimed at encapsulating pequi oil in liposomes and freeze-dried liposomes to enhance its stability and functional benefits, such as skin hydration and anti-aging effects, for use in innovative cosmetic formulations. Pequi oil-extracted from the Caryocar brasiliense fruit pulp, a plant species from Brazilian plant biodiversity-is rich in secondary metabolites and fatty acids. Liposomes and dried liposomes offer controlled production processes and seamless integration into cosmetic formulations. The physicochemical analysis of the developed liposomes confirmed that the formulations are homogeneous and electrokinetically stable, as evidenced by consistent particle size distribution and zeta potential values, respectively. The gel-type formulations loaded with the dried liposomes exhibit enhanced skin hydration, improved barrier function, and refined microrelief, indicating improvements in skin conditions. These results highlight the potential of dried liposomes containing pequi oil for the development of innovative cosmeceutical products. This research contributes to the valorization of Brazilian biodiversity by presenting an innovative approach to leveraging the dermatological benefits of pequi oil in cosmetic applications.

Keywords: Caryocar brasiliense; cosmeceuticals; encapsulation; liposome; phytotechnology.

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Conflict of interest statement

The authors declare no conflicts of interest.

Figures

Figure 1
Figure 1
Results for mean liposome particle size (left, in green) and polydispersity index (PdI) (right, in blue) based on the number of sonication cycles.
Figure 2
Figure 2
Particle size (A) and polydispersity index (B) of the empty liposome pre-formulation (PR1) and the liposome pre-formulation with pequi oil (PR2) measured at 24 h (T0), and on days 7 (T7), 14 (T14), 28 (T28), and 49 (T49) after preparation, with storage conditions at room temperature (25 °C—T25), 5 °C (T5), and 37 °C (T37).
Figure 3
Figure 3
Particle size of the empty liposome—PR1, empty liposome added with 10% of sucrose, resuspended dried liposome, liposome added with 1% of pequi oil—PR2, liposome added with 1% of pequi oil and 10% of sucrose, resuspended dried liposome added with 1% of pequi oil. * Significant difference compared to PR1 (p < 0.01); ** Significant difference compared to PR2 (p < 0.01).
Figure 4
Figure 4
(A) Empty liposome—PR1; (B) empty liposome added with 10% of sucrose; (C) resuspended dried liposome; (D) liposome with 1% of pequi oil added—PR2; (E) liposome with 1% of pequi oil and 10% of sucrose added; (F) resuspended dried liposome with 1% of pequi oil added; (G) average diameter of the liposomes. * significant difference compared to PR1 (p < 0.01); ** significant difference compared to PR1 + 10% sucrose (p < 0.01); *** significant difference compared to PR1 resuspended (p < 0.0005).
Figure 5
Figure 5
Texture profile − parameters of firmness, cohesiveness, consistency, and shear work − spreadability of vehicle gel (L1) and gel containing 4% dried liposomes with pequi oil (L2) after 24 h of preparation. * significant difference compared to L1 (p < 0.05).
Figure 6
Figure 6
Stratum corneum water content (A) and transepidermal water loss (B) at the initial time (T0) and 2 h (T2) after the application of the gel formulation (L1) and gel containing dried liposomes with pequi oil (L2). * significant difference compared to baseline values (p < 0.05).
Figure 7
Figure 7
Cutaneous microrelief—Sesm parameter, at the initial time (T0) and 2 h (T2) after application of vehicle gel formulation (L1) and gel containing dried liposomes with pequi oil (L2). * significant difference compared to baseline values (p < 0.05).
Figure 8
Figure 8
Representative images of cutaneous microrelief at the initial time (T0) and 2 h (T2) after application of vehicle gel formulation (L1) and gel containing dried liposomes with pequi oil (L2).
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