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. 2022 Jul 10;12(14):2362.
doi: 10.3390/nano12142362.

Salicin and Hederacoside C-Based Extracts and UV-Absorbers Co-Loaded into Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers with Promoted Skin Antiaging and Hydrating Efficacy

Ioana Lacatusu  1 , Brindusa Balanuca  1   2 , Andrada Serafim  2 , Cristina Ott  1 , Mariana Prodana  3 , Nicoleta Badea  4
Affiliations

Salicin and Hederacoside C-Based Extracts and UV-Absorbers Co-Loaded into Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers with Promoted Skin Antiaging and Hydrating Efficacy

Ioana Lacatusu et al. Nanomaterials (Basel). .

Abstract

Conventional and herbal active principles can be combined in a beneficial harmony using their best features and compensating for the certain weaknesses of each. The study will answer the question, "how can willow bark extract (Wbe) or ivy leaf extract (Ile) influence the photoprotective, skin permeation and hydration properties of Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers (BLN) loaded with UV-filters and selected herbals?". BLN-Wbe/Ile-UV-filters were characterized for particle size, zeta potential, thermal behavior, entrapment efficiency and drug loading. The formulated BLN-hydrogels (HG) were subjected to in vitro release and permeation experiments. The in vitro determination of sun protection factors, as well as comparative in vitro photostability tests, rheology behavior and in vivo hydration status have been also considered for hydrogels containing BLN-Ile/Wbe-UV-filters. Photoprotection of BLN-HG against UVA rays was more pronounced as compared with the UVB (UVA-PF reached values of 30, while the maximum SPF value was 13). The in vitro irradiation study demonstrated the photostability of BLN-HG under UV exposure. A noteworthy cosmetic efficacy was detected by in vivo skin test (hydration effect reached 97% for the BLN-Wbe-UV-filters prepared with pomegranate oil). The research novelty, represented by the first-time co-optation of the active herbal extracts (Wbe and Ile) together with two synthetic filters in the same nanostructured delivery system, will provide appropriate scientific support for the cosmetic industry to design novel marketed formulations with improved quality and health benefices.

Keywords: UVA and UVB filters; lipid nanostructured hydrogels; photoprotection; photostability; skin health promoting extracts.

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Conflict of interest statement

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

Figures

Figure 1
Figure 1
The particle size distribution (by DLS measurement) for BLN co-loaded with Wbe and UV-filters (a) and Ile and UV-filters (b). Morphology (by TEM) obtained for BLN co-loaded with UV-filters and herbal extract: Wbe (c) and Ile (d).
Figure 2
Figure 2
Differential scanning calorimetry for free-BLN and BLN co-loaded with herbal extract (Ile/Wbe) and UV-filters (OCT and BMDBM).
Figure 3
Figure 3
OCT and BMDBM release from BLN-Ile-UV-filters prepared with carrot oil (a) and pomegranate oil (b). OCT and BMDBM release from BLN-Wbe-UV-filters prepared with carrot oil (c) and pomegranate oil (d). Data are represented as mean ± SD, n = 3.
Figure 4
Figure 4
(a) In vitro permeation profiles of OCT and BMDBM from hydrogels with BLN-Ile/Wbe-UV-filters. (b) Fluxes at steady state of OCT and BMDBM filters from hydrogels with BLN- Ile/Wbe-UV-filters. Data are represented as mean ± SD, n = 3.
Figure 5
Figure 5
SPF and UVA-PF of hydrogels containing BLN-Ile/Wbe-UV-filters, SPF (a) and UVA-PF index (b). Data are represented as mean ± SD, n = 3.
Figure 6
Figure 6
Rheological behavior of hydrogels containing BLN-Wbe-UV-filters: (a) The elastic modulus (G′, Pa) and the viscous (loss) modulus (G″, Pa) as a function of pressure and as a function of frequency; (b) The viscosity characteristics.
Figure 7
Figure 7
The hydration effect of BLN-Wbe-UV-filters: 1. untreated skin (control); 2. skin treated with free-HG; 3. skin treated with HG based BLN1-Wbe-UV-filters; 4. skin treated with HG based BLN2-Wbe-UV-filters.
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Grants and funding

This research received no external funding. The APC was funded by University POLITEHNICA of Bucharest.

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