Nepal is a land in recovery.
Last April 25, an earthquake registering 7.8 on the Richter scale ripped through the South Asian nation, devastating the region and taking nearly 9,000 lives.
But as countries do, Nepal survived, not least of all because at its diverse heart — its population hosting at least 92 living languages — it is a spiritual nation. And how could it not be?
At the foothills of the Himalayas, the country is home to that resplendent tease Mount Everest. If you want to see evidence of something greater than yourself, just look up.
On the ground, though, Nepal’s capital Kathmandu is a cacophony of sound and dust — and not all of it from earthquake rubble, which a year is still omnipresent alongside tented camps for temporary housing. Signs of the tremor remain despite efforts to help, most visibly from the relief fund established by Singapore-born, Kathmandu-raised fashion designer Prabal Gurung. (Last month Prince Harry also took a tour to survey the country’s slow and not-so-steady rebuilding efforts.)
If visiting, assistance from a tour group is advisable to help navigate the streets clogged with scooters and no discernable traffic laws, and introduce you to the seven world heritage zones and thousands of temples and shrines that still stand strong after last April (though some, unfortunately, were lost).
My choice was Friendly Planet, which recently restarted their tours after the quake (16 days in India and Nepal for $3,299).
Buddhism comprises a majority of the remaining population, and over in the eastern outskirts of Kathmandu is the pilgrimage destination of Boudhanath, an UNESCO World Heritage site and the largest stupa (or hemispherical religious shrine) in Nepal. It’s also the most important stupa in Tibetan Buddhism outside of Tibet. Sadly, it took a hit from the earthquake, but as evidenced from a morning visit, it will take more than restorative scaffolding to deter the legions of devotees from circumambulating clockwise, chanting their mantras.
Visit Swayambhunath for both Buddhist stupas, flanked by colorful prayer flags, and ornate Hindu temples with wooden carvings, 365 steps up a hill in western Kathmandu and the second most sacred Buddhist site for pilgrims behind Boudhanath. The Tibetan name means “Sublime Trees” for the varying types of greenery on the hill. But be ready for furry friends: Swayambhunath is also known as the “monkey temple” because legions of these primates occupy the grounds. These holy animals — said to be transformed from the lice of the Manjushri, bodhisattva of wisdom and learning, while he was raising the temple hill — also make fine but fast-fingered companions for viewing the spectacular Kathamandu valley below.
Religions also converge with the country’s tradition of selecting the Kumari, or living goddesses, of which there are several in Nepal. The pre-pubescent icons, believed to have healing powers, are chosen from the Newari ethnic group. To Newar Buddhists, the Kumari personifies the chief female deity Vajradevi, a Buddha. To Hindus, she is embodies Taleju, the Nepalese version of Durga.
In Kathmandu her temple, a palatial complex, is located in Durbar Square. Post-earthquake, the structure is supported by wooden beams, but that doesn’t prohibit visitors from trying to catch a glimpse.
Nepalese are allowed to enter the building at will, but foreigners have to wait: either for one of the few times a year she ventures out in a chariot procession, or in her courtyard, for her to come to the window. (On our visit, there was no sighting. We were told she was sleeping as living goddesses need rest.)
And then there are the Himalayas, the largest shrine of all, and a lasting reason for thousands of trekkers to visit each year and pray at the altar of nature. Climbing Everest will run you at least $30,000, closer to $45,000. But for much less effort and cash you can take a sightseeing flight up from the Kathmandu airport, which costs approximately $185 roundtrip with the fittingly-named Buddha Air.
Where to stay
At Dwarika’s Hotel (from $265), stay in an earthy piece of living history which not only houses a collection of artifacts but whose structure incorporates salvaged carved woodworks from homes and temples in a conservationist effort by its founder, the late Dwarika Das Shrestha. Amid bustling streets, the compound is a respite, complete with a spa and a serene courtyard with a pool.
The fancier, sprawling Hyatt Regency in the Kathmandu Valley is away from the excitement of downtown but just a seven-minute walk to Boudhanath and the surrounding areas. In warmer months the outdoor pool is a plus, and for late nights there’s a casino on grounds. Interestingly, Nepalese citizens are not allowed to partake.
In Nepal it’s also possible to sleep amongst the monks. The Shechen Monastery, also near the Boudhanath stupa, offers a nearby guesthouse with a vegetarian restaurant and access to monastery grounds.
Where to eat
You can’t leave Nepal without trying the traditional momo, or steamed dumpling, found in any hole-of-the-wall establishment. Fillings range from ground meat to savory paneer and tofu.
Also easily found is dal bhat, a traditional Nepali meal of steamed rice and cooked lentils, served with vegetables or curry. For a higher-end dal bhat experience, visit the Krishnarpan restaurant in the Dwarika Hotel, which serves pan-Nepali food with natural ingredients. Courses ranging from six to a whopping 22. While you’re there, check the walls for photos of well-known visitors, including Hillary Clinton and Selena Gomez.
Head to the Roadhouse Café for excellent wood-fired pizzas. At its sister rooftop bar-restaurant, Mezze by Roadhouse, sample similar fare with views of the former coral pink Narayanhiti Palace Museum, the last home of Nepal’s royal family.
Where to shop
While definitely touristy, the dynamic neighborhood of Thamel is the go-to destination for trinkets and souvenirs, including teas and inexpensive cashmere. When the sun sets (or even when it’s still up), it transitions into a nightlife hub, buzzing with bars and live music.