Momofuku Nishi puts the great David Chang back where he belongs — in a New York kitchen, hitting his creative stride after five years of mostly cloning his brand worldwide.
Unlike what you’ve heard, this hottest of all new restaurants is mercifully not “Korean-Italian fusion.” Yes, some dishes are playfully composed to resemble Italian faves like chitarra. But the menu mainly reflects Chang’s restless, Asian-inspired mischief that’s been on hiatus here while he opened new spots from Toronto to Sydney.
Although mighty new flavor effects are the reason to go, Momofuku Nishi’s menu won’t shatter anyone’s “wellness” agenda. Most dishes are light on the tongue and tummy, and relatively low in sugar and salt.
Executive chef Joshua Pinsky’s disciplined kitchen botched nary a dish, none of which replicates those at Chang’s other places. The room, though, retweets their backless, blond wood chairs and tables. That’s fine for short stays, but food this sophisticated deserves more time to contemplate and savor.
One day, Chang will open a normal bistro — and let more people over 35 than currently trickle to his packed places discover just how good he is.
With apps $14 to $20, noodles $23 to $36 and entrees $35 to $38, Nishi is pricey, but there’s no tipping. You’ll struggle for reservations (online only) with roughly 8 zillion Momofuku mavens. But that’s life in the Big City — which is only too glad to have Chang back.
BBQ MACKEREL ($31) A wedge of the species (below), which Chang calls “the patron fish” of the restaurant, is grilled to a supple turn beneath gleaming skin, and served with braised daikon of a rare buttery quality.
TOFU WITH TROUT ROE ($20) Chef de cuisine Carey Hynes invented this gorgeous mosaic that sparkles on the palate and on the plate. The gently smoked tofu, brushed in olive oil and airy as flan, persuasively conveys rye bonji. Crunchy Tokyo turnips, scallions and toasted nori strike complementary tactile notes.
CHITARRA ($29) You’d swear it was red tomato sauce, but it’s gochu (pepper) hozon and shellfish XO that make egg noodles and calamari look like old-school Mulberry Street. It’s “all over the place,” Chang says with a laugh of the dish. Wherever it is, it’s delicious.
BLACK BASS ($21) Cured, silken-textured filet slivers (below) are served in a shimmering green bath of tiger’s milk (citrus marinade) and shio kombu (salted seaweed). A strong cucumber note emerges from the pool of chili poblano juice and stops just short of taking over.
CECE E PEPE ($23) It’s hard to believe there isn’t a molecule of dairy in this clever masquerade of the classic Italian pasta dish cacio e pepe. Chickpea hozon, Chang’s trademarked, slow-fermented paste made from nuts and grains, stands in for Pecorino Romano. But it isn’t a stunt. The earth-borne elements make black pepper-sparked bucatini seem new.
CLAMS GRAND LISBOA ($27) Tiny cockles (below) rest on lo mein noodles that have been toasted, fideos-style, to a crunchy turn reminiscent of of paella soccarat. Oregano and cabbage are tossed amid layers of apple juice, dashi and more. Is the combination strange? Only until you taste it.
Momofuku Nishi, 232 Eighth Ave., between 21st and 22nd streets; momofuku.com