If a Hollywood producer ordered up one splendid, medieval city as the set for some period picture, the old quarter of Krakow would make an excellent real-life example.
There are several better-known European destinations nearby — Prague, or Budapest — whose architectural magnificence also escaped the worst ravages of World War II. But Krakow, Poland’s second-largest city, is probably the most unsung.
Take Market Square, the nucleus of the old quarter. It is the largest town square anywhere in Europe, once serving as the center of medieval life after it was rebuilt in 1257, and now filled with pedestrians, outdoor cafes and various public fetes. The scenic space is surrounded by marvels like the two-towered Church of St. Mary, a Gothic beauty that could compete with nearly any parish in Italy or Spain; Cloth Hall, the covered market dating back to the 16th century that houses modern-day souvenir vendors, is at its center.
Music is everywhere: it is strummed by itinerant buskers on cobblestone streets; it is played in the churches at night by the likes of the Cracow Chamber Orchestra of St. Maurice; it comes in klezmer form at one of the restaurants in the Jewish part of town. The food is heavy, plentiful and delicious. In short, Krakow is a jewel waiting to be properly recognized — so go now, before its greatness becomes common knowledge.
WHAT TO SEE
It’s true: Market Square is the main attraction, but the rest of Krakow is none too shabby.
The Droga Krolewska, a.k.a. the Royal Road, which surrounds the medieval part of the city, hugs up against Wawel Hill, the site of the 900-year old Wawel Cathedral, as well as Wawel Castle, which was built by King Casimir III in the 14th century, making for a lovely, history-filled compound.
The Jewish area of Krakow, Kazimierz, is much more poignant; it’s definitely a sadder, more humble sight than the cathedrals and large houses of the old quarter. Iron railings line the square at the center of Kazimierz in the shape of back-to-back menorahs with a Star of David at the center. Hebrew lettering can be found carved over the doorposts of the various scraggly, decaying buildings. This part of town may be less grand than the Market Square or the Wawel, but its story is far more fascinating.
The Old Synagogue, built at the beginning of the 15th century, is as haunting as any of the city’s other religious shrines — if not quite as ornate. Unlike the vast majority of the churches of Krakow, which command an enthusiastic following every Sunday, the holy sites of Kazimierz are more tributary. They’re like mini-museums — preserved vestiges of the civilization that once thrived here, but was killed off during World War II. The Old Synagogue is no different. Under glass lie artifacts of the long-lost society: female bonnets; shawls; coronets; the local shechet (butcher’s) slaughtering knife.
A block or so away is the old Jewish cemetery, with graves dating back to the 16th century, and around another corner is the Galicia Jewish Museum, which contains a permanent photo exhibit of lost Jewish Poland as well as other temporary installations. (When I was there, a mural of life in Poland before and during the Holocaust sewn by a local survivor was on view; it alone was worth the price of admission — about $4.)
And while there are no longer many Jews living in Kazimierz, you wouldn’t know it from the jubilant klezmer music played in the streets, outside restaurants like Ptaszyl and nightly at Klezmer Hois.
WHAT TO EAT
Foodies who plot their vacations with a Michelin guide in hand might not give Krakow a second thought. This is a mistake.
Yes, one has to possess a hearty disposition for kielbasa and cabbage, but for those who can take it, the rewards are great. Amongst the traditional Polish restaurants that serve peasant fare like potato pancakes and pork cutlets, the best place I visited was called C.K. Dezerter.
It’s tucked away on a side street, away from the throngs of tourists. And while the inside looks aged, it doesn’t come off as kitschy. The usual suspects like herring, sausages and (naturally) pierogis are delicious here. A disc of grilled highlands cheese served on toast points with a small dish of cranberry sauce for dipping is as sophisticated as anything you’d eat in New York. But my favorite would have to be flanken drowned in creamy white sauce, which comes to the table with one of Poland’s ubiquitous sides: boiled potatoes. (Nothing on the menu surpassed $5.30.)
Krakow’s restaurants aren’t all throwbacks. Ambasada Sledzia attracts a younger, hipper crowd than most of the touristy places and offers Polish tapas, which is not the gimmick you’d be forgiven for thinking it was. Little on offer is more than $3.20. You’ll fill up on pickles, herring and cream and moist, fattening pork knuckle cooked in beer, all washed down with a round of cheap drinks.
WHERE TO STAY
There are, of course, hotels in the old quarter that will put you more in the spirit of the Krakow of yore, like the Grand Hotel (from $167), but there are also newbies like the Sheraton (from $132) within walking distance of Kazimierz and the historic part of town.
The Radisson Blu Krakow, is situated on the Droga, and only a 10-minute walk from Market Square, offers visitors a clean, modern place to hang their hat, with a young, helpful staff and amenities like a gym (from $120).
Even in a place like this, a seamlessly run modern hotel, one can find traces of old Poland: at their breakfast buffet, the sausage — a little, maroon-colored number called kabanos — is smoky, sensational and better than any sausage you’re likely to find anywhere else.