At Steve Heller’s Fabulous Furniture, the owner repurposes used car parts for his imaginative art. (Zandy Mangold)
THE HIKING ADVENTURE
Heading up the trail at Overlook Mountain in Woodstock, you may think you’re in for a pleasant five-mile hike. But as you near the summit, you’ll find the vast, crumbling skeleton of a once-luxurious resort: the Overlook Mountain House. That it shares its name with the hotel in “The Shining” is apt; these are deliciously creepy ruins. Built in 1833, the getaway was repeatedly ravaged by fires, and eventually abandoned. The owners’ loss is a hiker’s gain. The trailhead is on Mead Mountain Road in Woodstock, across from the Karma Triyana
Dharmachakra Buddhist monastery.
STAY HERE: Just off Route 28, you’ll find the well-appointed red cottages and motel of the Phoenicia Lodge (5987 Route 28, Phoenicia; 845-688-7772; phoenicialodge.com). A bonfire pit and hammock in the center of the semicircle of cabins give the place a bit of a camping feel. Lodgers hang out on their porches, while kids and dogs run around. When we visited, our neighbors had been there before and planned on coming back soon — a good sign! Rates: Motel rooms are $70 a night, cabins $120 and up.
REFUEL HERE: Sweet Sue’s (49 Main St., Phoenicia; 845-688-7852) is not only the best place in Phoenicia for brunch, it may have the best pancakes we’ve had, period. Try a stack of the Blue Monkeys ($8.95), with blueberries and bananas, and go for the real maple syrup ($1.50). Just bring a hearty appetite, because these babies are huge.
Also tasty: roasting complimentary marshmallows in the fire pit at nearby Peekamoose Restaurant (8373 Route 28, Big Indian; 845-254-6500). First grab a local brew (Ommegang’s Hennepin Ale, $6.50, is a good one) at the cozy bar,.
INSIDER TIP: Aching from your Overlook jaunt? Pick up aspirin at the rather retro Phoenicia Pharmacy (41 Main St.; 845-688-2215), on the town’s short main drag.
THE ADVENTURE: A FUNKY VINTAGE SHOPPING TOUR
Treasures abound in the Catskills. Beginning at Woodstock’s Castaways (36 Mill Hill Road; 845-679-3459), we stumbled across a fabulous vintage mink jacket for a mere $100. In Boiceville, don’t miss Steve Heller’s Fabulous Furniture (845-750-3035) — just look for the sci-fi sculptures he’s created from salvaged ’50s Cadillacs. It’s far out — as are his fanciful woodworks embellished with tail fins and other roadside relics. In Phoenicia, you’ll find the Mystery Spot (72 Main St.; 845-688-7868), run by photographer and artist Laura Levine, whose work has been shown at MoMA. Her “shrine to clutter” offers nonstop spectacle — from creepy dolls to pulp paperbacks to gallery prints of Levine’s photography, including one of Björk in the buff save for a few strategically placed leaves. Music buffs will especially dig the record room. Finally, work your way to the 768 Main cafe and antiques shop in Margaretville (768 Main St.; 845-586-6166).
STAY HERE: Hole up at Kate’s Lazy Meadow, a delightfully kitschy motel run by Kate Pierson of the B-52s (5191 Route 28, Mount Tremper; 845-688-7200). Think pink kitchens and a gnome-themed room. Just don’t plan to see Pierson, though a manager is on call. Rates start at $175.
REFUEL HERE: If the mere mention of Frito pie ($6), pulled-pork sandwiches ($6) and dry-rubbed spare ribs ($24 for a full rack) sets you drooling, stop by Cha Cha Hut BBQ in Arkville (43311 Route 28; 845-586-6100). But your weekend’s not over until you check in for an al fresco creekside brunch at Bear Cafe in Woodstock (295 Tinker St.; 845-679-5555).
INSIDER TIPS: Down the road from Kate’s is Emerson Kaleidoscope inside an old barn silo, billed as the world’s largest. The trippy show is a fun goof-off for $5 — and best viewed while lying on the floor (5340 Route 28, Mount Tremper; 877-688-2828).
THE ADVENTURE: DETOX TO RETOX
Make Haven Spa (6464 Montgomery St.; 845-876-7369, havenrhinebeck.com) your first stop in Rhinebeck, a town with only one traffic light. Housed in a converted 19th-century building, the bilevel spa specializes in body treatments such as its salt scrub ($80 for 45 minutes) and more luxurious mud scrub ($95 for one hour), which removes dead skin and locks in moisture.
Clinton Vineyards (450 Schultzville Road, Clinton Corners; 845-266-5372; clintonvineyards.com), a one-room winery, makes only one wine from grapes — seyval blanc — but does it well: The result is a crisp, citrus-y white even A-listers such as Chelsea Clinton (no relation) love to sip: She gave out bottles to guests at her wedding. The $10 tasting includes tipples from Clinton’s bubblies and dessert wines.
STAY HERE: Beekman Arms (6387 Mill St.; 845-876-7077, beekmandelamaterinn.com) — the oldest inn in America (built in 1766) — has a storied history: Guests have included George Washington, Benedict Arnold and Alexander Hamilton. FDR gave speeches on the front porch. For more space, head to the Delamater Inn. Prices are comparable here ($125 to $300 per night) to the Beekman’s ($110 to $350), and suites have their own fireplaces and sitting rooms.
REFUEL HERE: A few doors down from Haven Spa is Terrapin Restaurant (6426 Montgomery St.; 845-876-3330, terrapinrestaurant.com), housed in a converted church. Waitresses serve huge platefuls of locally grown and organic bites, many of which are vegetarian, vegan or gluten-free. You can also build your own sandwich and sip a glass of vino from the bistro’s respectable wine list, heavy on California and Hudson Valley varietals.
INSIDER TIP: Cool off at Village Pizza (19 E. Market St., 845-876-9676). We skipped the pizza at this nondescript slice joint on the main strip and went straight for hefty delicious spoonfuls of locally made Jane’s Ice Cream.