We fell in love 23 years ago, when a nasty New York February — and a $300 air/hotel package — took us to San Juan.
Somewhere during those three coconut-scented days and nights along the Condado Strip, I dove for something shiny in the pool — and brought up a thick gold chain. When no one else claimed it, the hotel gave it to me.
It must have been an omen, because Puerto Rico, “the shining star of the Caribbean,” has been golden for us ever since.
A dozen visits later, my family is still in thrall to its balmy breezes, turquoise water and friendly people, as well as the best roadside food we’ve ever had — as anyone who’s followed their noses to some pollo asado (roast chicken) off the highway will tell you.
At first, we were happy just hanging around San Juan, strolling Luquillo Beach, hiking through the rainforest. We loved Old San Juan with its winding streets and pastel buildings, and flew kites on the sweeping lawn of El Morro castle. We even spent a heady night at El Convento, the convent-turned-boutique hotel, with its rooftop Jacuzzi and open-air wine bar.
And then, because life is short and the island’s small, we went exploring.
Paradores — small, privately owned hotels which all carry the Puerto Rico Tourism Company’s seal of approval — made for perfect (and cheap) family travel.
Our first foray took us to the sleepy southeastern town of Patillas. For about $100 a night, we stayed on a former coconut plantation, where I rode a sure-footed Paso Fino horse along the beach.
Driving north through the hills one Sunday, we found Cayey and its pig roast, an event accompanied by live bands and men in starched shirts, dancing gravely with their children.
At the parador in La Parguera, near Phosphorescent Bay, we rented a motorboat and moored amid the mangroves. We ate pinchos (kebabs) in the town square and, one moonless night in a glass-bottomed boat, saw the little neon creatures that gave the bay its name.
The northwest town of Guajataca introduced us to our first tarantula, which wasn’t included in the room rate. From there we visited Arecibo, home to the telescope featured in the Jodie Foster film “Contact” which is still seeking life on other planets.
Then we found Rincon, and our travels were over.
This beautiful West Coast town draws surfers, artists and anyone who loves quiet beaches and dazzling sunsets. Walking across its white sand, I find my rough New York edges smooth out like beach glass. We watch brown pelicans dive past our porch at Sunset Paradise Villas, while roosters crow us awake.
Every winter we discover something new: a health food store near the town square; dorado in coconut curry sauce at the tapas bar at Casa Islena Inn; the dense coconut cookies at Calvache Bakery.
The warmth of the people, the whispering palms, the water’s salty embrace… These bind me more firmly to this lovely island than any golden chain.