THE late Robert Louis Stevenson – not just a poet, but also a travel writer – once wrote, “To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive.”
On my first visit to the Caribbean island of Antigua, I wondered if he too had been here. Arriving on Antigua was definitely inferior, experience-wise, to sitting in my office back home in New York anticipating the trip.
There was a lot to anticipate, I thought. Blessed with 365 beaches, one for every day of the year, Antigua had me at hello.
In addition to all of these beaches, which accommodate every type of sun-worshipper you can think of, from nudists to picnickers, this Leeward island is also surrounded by gorgeous blue waters which attract some of the world’s most dedicated sailing enthusiasts.
The cherry on top was that I was also visiting during the inaugural Romantic Rhythms Music Festival – a week long annual event launched this June that featured R&B singers Brian McKnight and Keyshia Cole, reggae singer Damien Marley and old school crooners Lionel Ritchie and Kenny Rogers. (Kenny Rogers is to Antigua as Jerry Lewis is to France. Who knew?)
I was also informed that the locals too are famous for their welcoming spirit, and love to boast about their cuisine, some of the best in the region. This was going to be spectacular.
OR NOT, AS THE CASE MAY BE
There’s nothing quite like waking up to a bunch of cockroaches by your bedside. These beasts weren’t bringing me breakfast in bed, either. They were dead.
There was no excuse, really. Not even for a middle of the road, all-inclusive accommodation such as the Jolly Beach Resort and Spa. By all-inclusive standards, rates were fairly reasonable, about $200 per head, based on double occupancy. Not a bad deal, except for the complimentary roaches.
I wasn’t having it. My travel companion practically begged me to chill out about the incident – I have no idea why, considering it was he who had to handle roach cleanup.
“Give the place a break,” he urged. Fine, the staff was nice. Charming and helpful, even. The serene beach – one of the island’s loveliest – was perfect for a morning swim. But facility-wise, to say that the resort has seen better days is an understatement. Think of an aging beauty queen that hit the bottle one too many times and you can imagine the state of the place.
That said, I was coming around. Maybe the resort deserved a break. And then, on the second morning, more roaches. This time, they were very much alive. Sandra out.
BRIDGE OVER TROUBLE
Exploring the island quickly proved to be the highlight of the trip; on the third day, we ventured out to a seaside landmark known as The Devil’s Bridge. According to locals, the place, a lime rock hit so many times by waves that it formed a natural bridge, got its name because it was where slaves went to commit suicide after they could no longer take the abuse from their British owners. Another legend has it that the devil resides there because it was the spot where plantation owners threw their disobedient slaves.
Either way, not too many survived the leap into the deep, hard-edged rocky waters. Admiring the haunting beauty of the site, a fellow tourist interrupted by suggesting that photos are better with people in them and offered to take mine on the edge of the cliff – with the Devil’s Bridge as a backdrop. Except that I slipped on one of the mossy rocks and almost fell into the 30-foot drop. My camera did not survive.
The next morning, with a seriously bruised posterior and a really bad attitude, I had had it with Antigua. Where was the Antigua of the glossy rags, of Oprah Winfrey, Giorgio Armani and Eric Clapton? As a last ditch effort to save our relationship, I decided to move over to one of the island’s newest resorts. Among the list of attractees: various other A-listers and a horde of barefoot luxury connoisseurs.
NOW THIS IS MORE LIKE IT
With Hermitage Bay, it was adore at first sight
Twenty-four private cottages line a soaring hillside nestled among jasmine and other local flowers and fauna, each with a stunning view of the tranquil beach below. The hillside cottages also have private plunge pools and a deck for sunning. If details point to the soulfulness of a place, consider the names of the indigenous wood used to build this Eco-friendly resort – purple heart, green heart, among others.
Each of the cottages – 17 on the hill, 8 beach front – is superbly appointed with top of the line furniture, linen and fixtures, offering real privacy, even if the showers are outdoors. Outdoor showers, as anybody who has had them knows, are a peculiarly luxurious thing, particularly when nobody can see you (here, they’re lined by heavy white curtains). There’s something about jumping into your own private monsoon on a warm evening, soaping yourself up as you listen in on the chatter of fellow guests making their way down hill to the beachfront restaurant and bar, located in the main building. (Both are open and tiered and offer fabulous views of the beach.)
Hermitage Bay is exactly what so many other resorts in the Caribbean are not. Rather than plonking condo-style buildings into the environment, rather than stripping away local culture and pouring in bucketfuls of English (French or American) comforts, this soulful resort celebrates the local cuisine and culture.
Again, like so few other Caribbean resorts, the food is a highlight – organic and often locally-sourced, the menu is considerate of vegetarians and carnivores alike, and changes frequently.
This season the property is scheduled to harvest produce from its onsite organic garden which includes basil, tomatoes, mangoes, papaya, avocados and more. It’s one of the more environmentally friendly hotels in the region: the hotel recycles and solar panels heat the water.
This month they’ll debut a new 35-foot Infinity pool that is 32 steps from the ocean. (Yes, I counted on my trips back and forth from the sea to the pool.) Topping the experience is an onsite spa and a native staff that’s eager to share local customs. Literally, this is the full package.
I could have stayed at the hotel for the rest of my trip, but I couldn’t refuse an afternoon of exploring with Devon, a local guy on the activities staff of the hotel. We went snorkeling, he showed me where Armani’s new blue seaside mansion was and we visited the remnants of an old pirate shipwreck. As he peppered me with local stories galore, my mind began to wander. I’d found bliss in Antigua. It had been worth the wait.