Wine is a conundrum, Lettie Teague admits. Choosing one is complicated, puzzling and – when faced with the judgmental sneer of the wrong sommelier – stressful. At the same time, however, it’s simple; “after all,” she says, “all you want is a beverage.”
As executive wine editor of Food & Wine, Teague has lived, breathed and drunk the Dionysian for more than 11 years, and before that she learned wine in retail and restaurants – all the way back to her stay in Ireland after college, when she lived in the house of a wine merchant. So she was the logical person to turn to when her friend Peter Travers, film critic for Rolling Stone, wanted to branch out from the “fatty Chardonnay” he favored. The result was more than an enlightened magazine writer, it’s a book – “Educating Peter,” a quick read that promises that “anyone can become an (almost) instant wine expert.”
“Peter” will tell you about the basic six grapes (Sauvigon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon), why color is important (whites get darker with age) and retro-nasal tasting (keeping your mouth open as you smell the wine, to get the full taste). But for a few things the guide doesn’t cover, Teague agreed to answer our questions.
You’re on a date, faced with a list of like 500 wines. Where do you start?
Talk to the sommelier. Even if the list isn’t long, some sommeliers are becoming purposely obscure in their collections, with unfamiliar countries and varieties. But they want to provoke a conversation. You should be able to describe a little bit of what you like. They’re on your side – they wouldn’t have a job if they only promoted overpriced California Chardonnay. But if you give them a piece of information, it says, “I’m not just some yahoo off the street.” They’ll respond like any salesman – they’ll sell you something you’re more likely to like.
What’s the most anyone should spend on wine without looking like a tool?
I always look to spend the least amount as possible. There’s no reason you can’t find something good for $45 to $50 a bottle. There’s no reason why any list shouldn’t have good wines under $40, or under $30, especially these days.
What wine should I never order?
Anything overpriced. I always look at the Champagne to get a sense of how much they’re overcharging. Because we usually know what the retail price of a bottle of Champagne is, say $45, and some restaurants will double it. Also stuff that they know people will order regardless – Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley Cabernet, the categories of safety. The biggest markup I’ve ever seen is for Pinot Grigio at Cipriani. Restaurants punish people for seeking their comfort zone. Go after some obscure things, hard-to-pronounce stuff, but always a young vintage. Most people don’t know that 97% of wines in the world are not meant to age. While some whites can age, a vast majority should be served fresh.
What’s a wine I’ve never had but should?
I’m really keen on dry Vouvrays, especially those from Foreau and Huet . . . Soave is a consistently underrated wine yet there are some truly marvelous examples from producers like Pieropan and Anselmi. For reds, I look (again!) to Italy for Barberas from Piedmont (a lot less expensive than Barolo and Barbaresco) and also reds from the southern Rhone (Cotes du Rhone, Cotes du Ventoux) and the Loire Valley in France (especially Chinon) – they’re great wines with food. They are all wines with personality but not (yet) big price tags attached.
How do you not be intimidated by the sommelier?
Like anything in life, confidence. Have an opinion. Not “guy in a steakhouse” kind of opinions, but that you have something to say. Any wine director worth his salt will respond to that. He’ll want to engage.
Educating Peter
by Lettie Teague
Scribner