THISweek marks the second anniversary of the flood that almost destroyed New Orleans, and throughout the media, there is much being made over the worries that still face the city.
Right now, nearly two-thirds of its population has returned, but to a town where local government appears to be crippled by incompetence and corruption.
Protection from the waters that surround the city is pitifully uncertain.
To boot, crime is up, and while concentrated in residential areas rarely encountered by a visitor, the local justice system appears woefully ineffective.
Perhaps, then, the logical thing to do would be to stay far away. Correct?
Nope. If all the above were grounds for dismissal, the list of places we’d urge you to stay away from would get mighty long.
Truth is, in as many ways at it is suffering, New Orleans appears to be thriving.
First off, the Quarter is, and always will be, itself (for good or ill). Next door, the Marigny neighborhood is once again on the upswing. Magazine Street bustles. Sometimes, it’s like nothing ever happened Uptown.
Even neighborhoods like Mid-City and Faubourg St. John finally feel like their old selves, if more subdued than usual.
There are now more than 850 restaurants open in the city – that’s more restaurants than before Katrina.
Is there much to be concerned about? Better believe it.
But there are many reasons to be hopeful, too. In our opinion, the only thing crazier than going to New Orleans right now is not going.
Here are some of the most memorable experiences from our recent visits.
1) MORNINGSONTHEPATIO
If you want to meet people -and what’s a visit to New Orleans worth if you don’t? – start your day on the patio at the Fair Grinds coffee house, a staple of the pleasant Esplanade Ridge neighborhood, which sits directly adjacent to the entrance of the fair grounds, home to Jazz Fest.
For months after the storm, the owners of this well-liked café kept it closed, save for a free coffee service to those who needed it. Today, it’s almost like a different place – a better one, to be honest: clean, modern and cozy all at once.
Two things haven’t changed: the coffee’s strong and the denizens are chatty.
Just plant yourself in an empty chair and listen – your chance to join in could very well come along at some point. Even if it doesn’t, you’ll hear some wild hard-luck stories (3133 Ponce de Leon).
2) Fun with tortillas!
Pre-Katrina, you couldn’t find a proper taco here to save your life. Post-storm?Everywhere. With many construction workers coming from Mexico and Central America, New Orleans is finally discovering the meaning of words like barbacoa, al pastor and lengua (mmm…tongue).
While mobile trucks are still the norm, restaurants are now popping up: San Miguel is a hot spot, one of three great taco options at this dodgy intersection outside of the Marigny (2120 N. Claiborne).
3) Hang on ‘Main’
They might as well rename Magazine Street – go on and call it Main Street. After all, this is the absolute epicenter of local commerce these days, save the suburbs.
No other street in town, not in the Quarter or anywhere, approaches the level of vitality here, to the point where at times it is difficult to imagine that anything actually happened to the city.
From the self-consciously edgy Lower Garden District to leafy Audubon Park, there are miles to explore (details at magazinestreet.com).
4) Bike the levees
Who says New Orleans doesn’t exercise? Little-known fact – it does, and it has a great place to do it: The levees along the Mississippi River, where an exercise path has been meeting the needs of Uptown residents looking to stay in shape for years.
Rent from Michael’s in the Marigny (622 Frenchmen St., bicyclemichaels.com), bike up St. Charles, then scramble up the levee in Uptown’s Riverbend area.
5) Have a mojito
When life gives you Whole Foods as a neighbor, if you’re the divey St. Joe’s Bar, you capitalize on the availability of fresh fruit to spice up your mojitos. It’s blueberry they use, mostly – tart, sweet, tastes like more. Lots more. This is a must-stop (5535 Magazine St.).
6) Eat a po’boy
There are stops more popular with out-of-towners than the Parkway Bakery, which is fine, but we love this strong entrant (have the roast beef, dressed) sitting right along Bayou St. John, a great place for a post-intake stroll (538 Hagan St.).
7) Have a snoball
You haven’t mastered the art of not giving a damn until you’ve stood in line for 45 minutes at Hansen’s Sno-Bliz for some shaved ice with sugar syrup dumped on top.
Possibly the ultimate test of patience for a visiting New Yorker: pick the hottest day of your trip, head down to Tchoupitoulas Street and wait – and wait. (And wait!)
Just when you can’t wait any more, it’ll be your turn. (Make ours a Nectar, please.)
Lap that baby up, and you’ll forget that it took more than half an hour to get it (4801 Tchoupitoulas St.)
8)Go old-fashioned
Visitors will often be asked where they’ve been eating during their stay; nothing jumpstarts the conversation faster than ‘fessing up to having visited some of the older suburban institutions.
Think places like Bozo’s, a windowless, ugly, church rumpus room (but with a bar)out in Metairie, famous for oysters, and dating from the 1920s, when it opened on BroadStreet in New Orleans.
The ‘ersters here are definitely worth worshipping:raw, gently fried, in a po’boy, or all of the above. With potato salad on the side, of course (3117 21st St., Metairie)
9) By the Bywater
The Bywater may be quiet these days, but then again, it has always been a largely residential neighborhood, dotted with shops, cafes, galleries and bars. In the mix is the now-famous Vaughn’s, where you can see local legend KermitRuffins and his band every Thursday (800 Lesseps St). While there, stop in at nearby Bacchanal, a popular wine shop and bar.
Here, it feels as if you are at the end of the world -but with a fabulous wine list (600 Poland Avenue).
10) Stay local
Want to really peek behind the curtain? Avoid the big downtown hotels, many of which are struggling mightily to provide pre-storm levels of service, thanks to major staffing shortages.
Instead, book in at one of the city’s many small, owner-operated properties, where the benefits are threefold.
One, you get to stay in a cool New Orleans house; two, you’re digging neighborhood life; and three, you have someone cool to talk to about what’s going on in the city.
We’ve listed three top properties right now in the he sidebar at left. (Tell ’em we sent you!)
WHEREY’AT?
More NOLA, all week at blogs.nypost.com/travel
LEND A HAND
WHILE spending money in New Orleans is a great way to help the local economy, many visitors are opting to contribute their time as volunteers.
Lots of skills aren’t always required; it can be as simple as a Saturday of clean up in City Park.
For information on the various opportunities, visit neworleanscvb.com or volunteerlouisiana.gov.