MULBERRY ST
THE stretch of Little Italy on Mulberry Street between Grand and Broome is admiddedly a bit tacky.
But among the smallfronted, red-sauce joints, there are some gems.
The intersection f Mulberry and Broome Streets – the “official” entry point to Little Italy – is buzzing right now, thanks to the recent opening of one of the coolest bars around.
Getting all the attention is Odea (389 Broome St., [212] 941-9222), a supersleek vision in matte black sophistication artfully set off by a $14,000 underlit onyx bar.
Just past the bar are a series of cozy “dens” – black leather banquettes seating up to 20 people, each area screened off from the others by sheer, charcoal-colored gauze.
Odea features a tapas-style menu – plates range from $7 to $15 – and cocktails cost around $10. Local deejays pack in the Lower East Side crew on Friday nights, when it’s open till 4 a.m.
Next door is another success story, La Grotta Azzurra (179 Mulberry St., corner of Broome, [212] 925-8775).
Once a favorite of Frank Sinatra, who apparently liked the establishment’s opulent, over-the-top vibe, the restaurant was shuttered in 1997, then re-opened last year with chef Chris Pfeiffer (formerly of Daniel) at the stove.
Since then, the place has been steadily moving from strength to strength, attracting an upscale clientele that feasts on such Italian regional classics as rabbit pappardelle ($16). The Rat Pack vibe is still there, thanks to huge
mirrors, tiled floors and indoor waterfalls.
Across the street is another venerable Little Italy institution, Café Roma (385 Broome St., at Mulberry, [212] 226-8413).
Order a large espresso ($2.50), then pick out a pastry. In a matter of minutes, it’s easy to imagine yourself in the real Italy, not the Little one.
Walking the block of Mulberry Street to Grand is annoying – it’s crowded, and the restaurant workers try to hustle you into their places – but it’s worth it just to get to Alleva (188 Grand St., at Mulberry, [212] 226-7990), the famous Italian cheese store established in 1892.
Right across the street is the Italian Food Centre (186 Grand St., at Mulberry, [212] 925-2954), where serious sandwiches will set you back no more than $7.
There’s no better proof that for all the encroachments of Chinatown onto Little Italy’s traditional turf, the real deals are there to be found if you know where to look.