THERE’S nothing quite like drifting in the San Francisco Bay on a fog-shrouded fall evening, under the slowly rising Lefty O’Doul drawbridge, past the shiny new Pacific Bell ballpark and out into choppy waters. City lights penetrate the mist to reveal surreal skyline views.
But this boat is about more than sightseeing – indoors, there’s wine tasting afoot. I’m on board the Spirit of ’98, owned by Cruise West, the small-ship company better known for its tours of Alaskan glaciers. The represented winery on board is Taittinger champagne’s U.S. concern, Domaine Carneros.
Cruise West developed the idea of a wine-themed voyage upon finding the Napa River to be fully navigable for small cruise ships, right to the valley’s southern edge.
Seated in the lounge, tasting a stellar, limited edition Pinot Noir, it’s evident that while the tours and talks may be geared toward the uninitiated, these three nights of wining, dining and tastings would please the pickiest of the oenophiles.
The first night is spent moored in the middle of the Carquinez Strait off the San Pablo Bay. As the sun rises, we’re cruising upriver, where the fog is lifting above the valley’s pastoral landscape.
Today is Sonoma. It’s a beautiful drive along the back roads of the Valley of the Moon.
The tasting begins at Beringer in tiny Glen Ellen, where Jack London once made his home. The winery’s Discovery Center gives an in-depth process overview, or you can just stroll the hilly vineyards and bask in the quiet.
Skip the rudimentary tour at Tuscan-inspired Viansa Winery and head straight for the market, where Viansa’s signature sauces, both savory and sweet, are lined up for sampling.
Rejoin the crowd for lunch, where Italian red and white varietals are highlights.
Afterward, there’s time to wander Sonoma’s historic center, where more wine can be had at the Sebastiani family’s tasting room.
The day ends at Domaine Carneros, a French-style villa high above the Sonoma Valley. Madame de Pompadour’s portrait (on loan from the Taittingers) hangs imposingly at the entrance.
Here, sparkling wine is serious business. A quick tour ends with tall glasses in the tasting room.
On the ship, the décor relies on lots of stripes and florals, with touches of marble. It’s all comfortable, from the dining room booths to sturdy captain’s beds in the tiny cabins.
Best of all, everyone gets along. The wine may have something to do with it, but whatever it is, it works for the 95 passengers.
Saturday begins inauspiciously in the tough-luck North Bay town of Vallejo, where we dock at sunrise. But the charm switches on as we pass out of sprawling Napa city into Yountville, and through neatly kept St. Helena, toward Calistoga.
Schramsberg’s sweet sparkling wine, in the past, has been a White House favorite, often appearing on state dinner menus.
Standing inside two miles of caves, our guide points out the use of the Champagne name, reportedly made possible due to their use of the Methode Champagnoise.
But by now, we’ve learned plenty about the Methode. Call it what you will, this is still sparkling wine.
Next up is Clos Pegase, by far the most interesting stop on the trip.
The winery’s founders commissioned Michael Graves to design a “temple to wine.” With its arches, pillars and beautiful central courtyard, the complex is inspirational, especially bathed in afternoon sunlight.
But we’re headed back underground, into the caves for a thus-far unparalleled formal lunch. No one leaves thirsty.
The final evening on the bay is clear and still. Few pleasures can equal that of sailing out under the Golden Gate Bridge.
At midnight, we drop anchor smack in the middle of the bay. All around us, the lights of bridge and city twinkle seductively, on into the night.
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FAST FACTS
* Cruise West’s three-night trips start at $545 per person, until Dec. 8, (800) 426-7702, http://www.cruisewest.com