WHILE Williamsburg, Va., might offer the creme de la creme in Colonial-era lore, for those not willing to deal with the seven-hour road trip, a history lesson – with gorgeous landscape to boot – sits just 90 minutes north of Manhattan, in New Paltz, N.Y.
Perhaps best known for the rambling Mohonk Mountain Resort and the eclectic student body of the State University, the real gems of this Hudson Valley Township take a bit more exploration to discover.
Of all the attractions in this small town of just over 11,000 people, the Huguenot Stone Houses are perhaps the best-kept secret. The oldest standing residences in America still on their original streets, these six landmarks are as authentic as history gets.
Twelve French Huguenot families of the late 17th century, fleeing from religious persecution, purchased a sprawling, 40,000-acre plot from the Esopes Indians. They started building the nine one-room houses in 1692. Today, six of them still stand, with various additions made over the years. Most of the enormous structural beams, as well as many pieces of furniture and pottery, are all documented as original.
The details within are incredible. At the foot of some of the beds sit wooden cribs, specially designed with covers to protect tots from drafts. (The infant mortality rate at that time hovered around 40 percent.)
Rope trundel beds are hidden beneath the main beds, to save space within the cramped quarters. Enormous fireplaces are supported by one large structural beam, nearly 2 feet in width. Observing the meticulous placement of these historic objects, a visitor feels like he’s traveled back three centuries.
Outside the six houses, a plethora of locust trees – once used as lightning rods – creates a beautiful backdrop.
Tours of these landmarks are given from May until the end of October, and the guides are both friendly and chock-full of information. At times, re-enactments of day-to-day Colonial life are presented, with actors donning period costumes.
A visit to the 300-year-old homes might best be saved for the afternoon, after taking in New Paltz’s more modern attractions. Main Street teems with shops and restaurants that successfully bridge the gap between the Beat Generation of the 1950s and current trends.
Without traveling more than 100 steps, one can find beaded jewelry and flowing floral-patterned dresses at the Groovy Blueberry, then pick from a bevy of A-list designers at Rambling Rose. Barner books offers an ecclectic mix of rare titles, while Ariel Bookstore sells mainstream best sellers.
If you’re in the mood to whet your whistle on a hot afternoon, the same kind of dualism applies. You can pick up a cheap American draft and a competitive game of darts at the dimly lit Snug Harbor Bar. But if you hanker for a frothy microbrew in the shade of fresh gray umbrellas, the Gilded Otter provides the perfect setting.
Although central New York is not renowned as a mecca for eateries, two local restaurants, one very different from the other, stand out.
The Main Street Bistro serves the best breakfast in town, featuring Franklin Lakes Cranberry Cakes. These flapjacks combine cranberries and almonds for a delectable Sunday morning treat.
For an elegant supper, the Locust Tree Inn prepares what may be the tenderest filet mignon in the entire valley. Owners Joseph and Karen Fitzgerald deliver a truly exquisite meal within a Colonial-style setting, and nearly every entree is under $20.
There are numerous mini-excursions to make just beyond the town. Trails for both novice and expert hikers abound at Mohonk Mountain; the rock-climbing is recognized as some of the best on the Eastern Seaboard.
The Riverdell Winery, in addition to offering daily wine tastings, hosts a July Fourth celebration and, in September, a lobster fest.
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FAST FACTS
*New Paltz is 76 miles north of Manhattan. Huguenot Stone Houses, (914) 255-1889; New Paltz Chamber of Commerce, (914) 255-0243.