It’s been a few years since the first wave of Sichuan restaurants opened across the San Gabriel Valley, with places like Chengdu Taste and Sichuan Impression finding wide followings from chile-seeking diners. Though Chengdu Impression opened around the same time in 2017, it’s often confused with the two other restaurants and occupies a strange space with a ground-floor dining area and more group-oriented tables with ornate embellishments upstairs. Ambience aside, expect one of LA’s top Sichuan menus starting with solid versions of twice-cooked pork and dan dan noodles. Mapo tofu comes with finely ground beef instead of the more popular pork, bubbling in a wide stone bowl straight from the stove and topped with ample chile oil. It’s easily one of the best versions of Sichuan’s most iconic dish in town. Those adventurous enough to delve into the hot or dry pots will be rewarded with layered cauldrons of shaved snakehead fish boiled in water and chile-flecked oil with still-crunchy pieces of lotus root and potato slivers. The lesson to take away is that the bigger the group, the more can be ordered and shared for a fiery feast. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Operating in the shadows of Orange County’s Little Saigon can be tough for Los Angeles’s Vietnamese restaurants. Comparisons between the two regions are inevitable, with Little Saigon’s veritable cornucopia of Vietnamese restaurants edging out those found in Los Angeles for the most part. Kim Hoa Hue, however, can hold its own anywhere. The original location in El Monte opened in the mid-aughts and a second restaurant came online in Temple City in June 2024. Every meal at this central Vietnamese specialist should begin with the Hue combo, a sample platter of banh beo (steamed rice cakes topped with shrimp and cracklins), banh nam (rice cakes embedded with shrimp and steamed in banana leaves), and banh bot loc (shrimp and pork dumplings). Follow it up with a green papaya salad topped with sweetish beef jerky and plenty of liver. The com hen — a bowl of steamed rice, baby clams, sesame seeds, and fresh herbs served with a light clam broth — is a regional delicacy that every Vietnamese food lover should experience. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor

José Morales has taken his popular Long Beach taco truck and opened a permanent location Whitter, where fans line up throughout the day for possibly the best carne asada in Los Angeles. Morales learned the craft from his father, coming up as the next generation of Sinaloan-style carne asada taqueros. The modest but well-laid strip mall spot in Whittier offers a fresh salsa bar to top tacos, vampiros, quesadillas, and chorreadas — a lard-laden specialty — all topped with smoky, wood-grilled steak meat. Don’t worry Long Beach denizens: La Carreta still operates the truck in the city’s northern stretches. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Enrique Olvera’s semi-camouflaged back alley taco stand began its story in Los Angeles at the end of 2020, weeks after Damian, its soon-to-be-lauded sister restaurant, had to close due to pandemic-related restrictions. Since those uncertain first months, Damian and Ditroit have become finely embedded into Los Angeles’s Mexican, and specifically Chilango, oeuvre, shaped by a chef who changed the dining landscape in Mexico City before bringing his specific lens to Los Angeles. Ditroit’s lineup of tacos, flautas, and quesadillas have remolded Angelenos’ conception of what Mexican street food can be: think cornflower-tinged quesadillas filled with melty quesillo and epazote; tacos with smoky suadero, crispy-edged carnitas under seedy salsa roja, or lightly battered eggplant; and the fish flauta, which packs machaca-style fish, cabbage, crema, and salsa verde into a fried corn tortilla. Visitors can’t go wrong washing it all down with a Mexican coke, or punctuating the experience with its soft serve of the moment, especially during hotter summer months. — Nicole Adlman, cities manager

Katianna and John Hong aren’t the type of chefs to rest on their laurels. Since opening Yangban in 2022, the couple has reimagined the restaurant several times to better reflect their vision and meet diners’ needs. The restaurant’s latest reboot pairs the Hong’s signature modern Korean cooking with a vibey space decked out in original artwork. This iteration, with its dinnertime focus, bold shareable plates, and polished service, feels the most cohesive and approachable. The menu winds through big and small plates and the sujebi dumplings are one of the best. Prepared with a white kimchi beurre blanc, poached ocean trout, trout roe, and dill, the dish tastes like the ultimate Jewish Korean mash-up. The crispy Korean-style fried chicken and honey-glazed carrots have been popular from the start, while Yangban’s banchan — a delightfully mercurial, ever-rotating selection — is perfect for grazing and sharing. Order as many banchan as the table can handle and save room for a slice of lighter-than-it-looks cheesecake to finish. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor

Chinatown’s restaurant scene received a major boost when the former Plum Tree Inn was revived as Broadway Cuisine, a room whose lack of windows gives it a kind of office-building vibe. The lack of modern ambience shouldn’t dissuade one from seeking the wok-fired treasures of its Chinese American and regional Chinese menu that manages to both please a crowd and impress seasoned fans of the cuisine. Even a simple plate of pan-fried chicken noodles manages to balance the right textures and seasonings without being cloying. Fish filet with black bean sauce comes studded with still-crisp red onions and bell peppers, plus plump mushrooms for good measure. Portions are heaping too, which means Broadway Cuisine is a go-to for impromptu group dinners, with ample parking in the back. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Amboy in Chinatown can satisfy all burger seekers. In Los Angeles’s peak smash burger era, it’s sometimes nice to veer away from trendy, razor-thin patties and dig into thick, dripping, two-hands-required specimens, like the 10-ounce Amboy DH burger. The slightly smaller line of Slim Thicc burgers includes a one-third-pound patty topped with melty American cheese, caramelized onions, sauce, and pickles. The classic smashed double cheeseburger rivals any throughout the region, while the beef hot dog with caramelized onions, pickled peppers, and garlic aioli provides a nice change of pace. Former Petite Peso chef Ria Dolly Barbosa is the primary chef in Amboy’s kitchen, prepping bold specials like steak frites with a creamy Hennessy mushroom sauce, caviar, chives, and crispy french fries, along with a bone-in tomahawk steak with spicy smashed cucumbers and a Korean ssamjang demi-glace. Whether ordering a burger, chili cheese fries, an unexpected daily special, or a specific cut of meat to prepare at home, this Far East Plaza restaurant is the place to be. Bring a group to try everything that Barbosa and Amboy founder Alvin Cailan are cooking up. — Mona Holmes, reporter

The Japanese French menu at Little Tokyo’s Azay represents the path its chef, Akira Hirose, took to opening the restaurant. Born in Kyoto, Hirose did his culinary training in Azay-le-Rideau in France before moving to the United States to work as an apprentice at L’Orangerie in the early 1980s. In the late 1980s, Hirose opened a French restaurant in Kyoto, before moving to Pasadena to open the now-closed Maison Akira in 1998. Bringing his life’s experiences to the menu, Hirose now cooks what may be the last traditional Japanese breakfast in Los Angeles, plus a daily bento, omurice, duck confit, beef Bourguignon, and more. The dinner menu changes weekly but often offers dishes like miso black cod, branzino, and charred octopus. On most days, Hirose’s wife Jo Ann and son Philip can be found at the restaurant seating guests and bringing food out to tables. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor 

Pijja Palace, the runaway hit from first-time restauranteur Avish Naran, delivers to Angelenos something they didn’t know they needed: an Indian sports bar. Located on the ground floor of a Comfort Inn in Silver Lake, the restaurant’s raucous energy is undeniable, while its menu — a charming collision of Indian flavors and American bar standards — dazzles with an avalanche of flavor and spice from chef Miles Shorey. Nearly every table orders the malai rigatoni, a bowlful of ridged noodles that cling easily to a creamy tomato masala sauce. The thin-crusted bar pies are just as memorable, especially one slathered in an aromatic green chutney that rivals the rigatoni in popularity. Those in the know order the hush-hush Andy pie that comes topped with northern Makhini sauce, spicy pepperoni, fresh dill, onions, and honey. Dosa-battered onion rings, plenty of hot wings, and a luscious cardamom soft serve are on hand to round out every dinner. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor

Yes, the No. 19 pastrami sandwich is amazing, but this long-standing deli’s pure pastrami on house-baked rye is simplicity at its best. There’s a reason why people make pilgrimages to try Langer’s pastrami and even corned beef: there is no better version anywhere in town. Try the No. 44, served on griddled rye bread with hand-sliced pastrami, nippy cheese, and sauerkraut, for a decadent take on a Reuben sandwich. But don’t skip the rest of the classic Jewish deli menu either, from potato pancakes to cheese blintzes — it’s all very well executed in one of the best daytime dining rooms in town. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

When longtime pop-up Budonoki went permanent in September 2023, Angelenos quickly realized something special had opened in Virgil Village. The dimly lit izakaya from partners Eric Bedroussian, Dan Rabilwongse, and Josh Hartley emanates a certain cool that’s hard to manufacture. All dark wood and neon lights, it’s not uncommon to find tables entirely obscured in food and drink as diners try to taste a bit of everything. Rabilwongse, the restaurant’s executive chef, worked at acclaimed restaurants like Urasawa, Bouchon, and Hayato before opening Budonoki. His past experiences come through on a menu that blends Thai and Japanese flavors: the naem (Thai pork sausage) is a must-order for every meal, but don’t stop there. The best dinners at Budonoki are made up of as many dishes as is reasonable for the group size, like the grilled pork jowl, curry pan, and the Budo-Gnocchi, a take on gnocchi with rice cakes. For drinks, try the Matini, a take on a martini with sake and shochu, or the Hato with shochu, grapefruit, agave, and jalapeno. With Budonoki’s presence in a rapidly gentrifying neighborhood, the restaurant also offers a monthly night for the local community called Makanai Monday, where a full meal set is available for only $15. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor

It’s been a journey for Mae Malai, the street Thai noodle soup sensation that moved from operating outside Silom Supermarket into permanent digs on Hollywood Boulevard in November 2023. Now that owner Malai Data has settled into the space, it’s possible to slurp up her supremely satisfying bowls of boat noodle soup and tom yum noodles any time of day. To take advantage of having a fully outfitted kitchen rather than a makeshift one, Data has added plenty more to her roster of Thai hits, including a pair of pad thai preparations. In addition to the regular version that comes with tofu, chicken, or shrimp, diners can order the pad thai Anusawari, an old-school style with plenty of dried shrimp and flavored with sweetened radish and tamarind paste that was popular during less prosperous times in Thailand. The expanded menu also includes homemade sausages, sticky tamarind-glazed meatballs, wonton soup, and steamed coconut custard for dessert. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor

Soban’s tight menu features a rarity: ganjang gejang — raw marinated flower crab — which tastes like the pinnacle of Korean cuisine with its rich, slightly fermented umami and buttery sweetness (especially over warm rice). Spicy braised black cod and braised short ribs are soulful companions to help complete the experience. The family-owned restaurant holds such a special place in the Korean community that the director and stars of the South Korean film Parasite celebrated their historic Oscar victory in 2020 at Soban. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

If driving or walking near Hollywood Boulevard and Cherokee Avenue, look for the green sign that signals your arrival at Musso & Frank Grill. Head to the retro car-filled parking lot before descending into the 105-year-old restaurant. While walking in, take a quick glimpse into the loud kitchen and observe the slightly faded chandeliers, wall light sconces, 1930s art, wood paneling, and the customers who might be casually dressed or donning a tuxedo before settling into a red leather banquette or the bar. There’s something about the pageantry of uniformed waiters and bartenders wearing white or red jackets; their skill and dedication are why management embroiders the number of years employed on their shirt cuffs. The staff gracefully move throughout the room with intention. They’re always in a hurry to make diners feel important while dropping off a glass of pinot noir or baked escargot, crab Louie, filet of sandabs, or a perfectly cooked prime rib. One might overhear a newbie diner complaining about the peeling wallpaper or lack of new dishes, but quell the haters by taking in a stirred-only martini. Musso & Frank is old-school Hollywood charm. — Mona Holmes, reporter

The Westside of Los Angeles isn’t known for its Chinese food prowess compared to what’s available further east, but a crop of notable options have opened in recent years, including Lan Noodle. The restaurant first took Arcadia by storm in 2019 with its pitch-perfect bowls of Lanzhou beef noodle soup paired with hand-pulled noodles. Both the broth — simmered for the better part of the day with 28 herbs and spices — and the eight different noodle shapes have carried over to the spacious West Hollywood location, along with a wide selection of cold and hot appetizers, dumplings, and fried rice. Order one of the “signature” or “dry” noodles and select a noodle shape to go with it. Whether thin or thick, round or flat, and even triangular, it’s impossible to go wrong at Lan. Watch the masterful noodle pullers behind the glass counter for dinner and a show. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor

The 30-year-old Jones still has it. The “it” is an incredible space with the dark feel of a red sauce Italian restaurant and bar, but way cooler. Though it’s possible to snag a table for cocktails or dinner, Jones hit a major snag in 2023 when two drivers collided on the corner of Formosa and Santa Monica Boulevard before crashing into the restaurant’s eastern corner entrance. The accident happened late at night and no workers or diners were injured, but Jones was closed for three months for repairs; the cafe remains closed. As a testament to its beloved status in West Hollywood, the community rallied around the restaurant with employee fundraisers and reopened in February. Jones remains as popular as it was back in the early ‘90s. One can order thin-crust pizza, linguine with clams, or a dry-aged New York steak, and down it with a glass of sangiovese, a strong classic cocktail, or an Amstel Light. The apple pie served by the slice on a sizzling platter a la mode is still as good as ever. As a bonus for all of Los Angeles, the kitchen closes at 1 a.m. — Mona Holmes, reporter

LA’s oldest Thai restaurant is operated by Katy Noochlaor and chef Amanda Kuntee. The sisters (who also own Sawtelle Japantown’s Tuk Tuk Thai) took over Chao Krung from their parents, Boon and Supa Kuntee, who opened Chao Krung in 1969 on Fairfax slightly south of Beverly. In 2018, the restaurant underwent a sleek remodel and Kuntee reintroduced her parent’s original menu. Chao Krung’s offerings are deeply personal with Kuntee’s subtle touches on dishes like the hoi todd (crispy broken crepe with mussels), creamy tom kha coconut soup, garlic black pepper shrimp, and a superior pad thai. In a city where Thai restaurants are a source of culinary pride, Chao Krung continues to prevail. — Mona Holmes, reporter

A portal into the classy, romantic restaurant era of the 1990s, this Argentine steakhouse along Melrose Avenue has served old-school hospitality, well-grilled beef cuts, and excellent wine since opening 28 years ago. Founded by the Bozoghlian family and now operated by two of matriarch Azniv’s sons — Max with front-of-house and Gerard in the kitchen — Carlitos Gardel has finally graduated to icon status. Start with plump shrimp over red chimichurri, followed by gently blackened sweetbreads and empanadas. The main event, a parade of carefully chosen wood-fired steaks, pairs well with creamed corn or sauteed mushrooms. Azniv was famous for her desserts, and Gerard worked in recent years to perfect the layered postre Gardel, a Genoise cake with dulce de leche and meringue. Why do so many Angelenos sleep on this restaurant when it rightfully deserves a place next to Musso & Frank, Dan Tana’s, and Tower Bar? Some questions cannot be easily answered, but just know that a night at Carlito’s Gardel will be one easily enjoyed and remembered. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Sometimes, the good bones of a restaurant will show after numerous iterations, like Amour in West Hollywood, previously Dominick’s for the better part of a century, and then briefly Verlaine before it became one of Los Angeles’s most beautiful new openings of the past year. Founded by Thomas Fuks with chef Hendrix Vega leading the kitchen, the two Bouley alums did everything in their power to conceive a West Coast version of New York’s iconic Japanese French restaurant. They’ve mostly succeeded, doing homages like chawanmushi with black truffle dashi or New Caledonia prawn carpaccio with leche de tigre. Most folks will opt for the tasting menus, but diners can also order bistro-inspired dishes a la carte, like steak au poivre or the Comté “cloud” of pillowy soft scrambled eggs. The restaurant’s main dining patio, laced with ivy and accented with vintage lighting, could be the most charming place for dinner in Los Angeles right now. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

The baking scene in the South Bay received a major boost when Gjusta-alum Garrett McPerry opened Tommy & Atticus with his wife Lauren Rosen in Redondo Beach in July 2023. Since then, he’s greatly expanded the menu with sourdough bagels, sandwiches, laminated pastries, sweets, and bread loaves, all while maintaining best-in-class quality. Flakey, buttery croissants use the best butter and freshly milled flour; fruit galettes use produce from local farmers; daily sandwiches have vegetables at their peak freshness. The loaded bagel sandwiches with tender house-cured and sliced lox will draw the envy of one’s social media followers. Tommy & Atticus keeps everything simple on the outside, but underneath, there’s technical excellence and intentionality. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Lebanese-born chef Charbel Hayek incorporates California produce into Mediterranean fare at Ladyhawk, which opened in West Hollywood in late 2023. Mezze is the star of the menu. A recent transplant to LA, the chef reimagined Ladyhawk’s stunning two-person mezze platter with riffs like an avocado and corn hummus served next to a remarkably creamy traditional version. The array of mezze also includes baba ghanouj, muhammara, falafel, Lebanese olives, halloumi with summer tomatoes, spicy harissa wings, and something called “mama ghanouj” made with confit onions, charred zucchini, and lamb chorizo ragu. Another menu charmer is the ahi tuna crudo, an artfully presented dish that won Hayek first place on Season 2 of Top Chef Middle East in 2022. That crudo, along with herby and heaping salads, a dry-aged Rohan duck with honey and rose water, and a braised beef tagine are more of what makes this restaurant tucked inside the Kimpton La Peer Hotel one of Southern California’s newer standouts. — Mona Holmes, reporter

Vincent Williams, or chef Vinny, has mastered the art of fried chicken at his bustling Culver City restaurant. Sporting shatteringly crisp skin with extreme consistency, these juicy birds could be the finest fried chicken in Southern California. Drop-style biscuits and packets of honey are served on the side. Honey’s Kettle has found a wider audience thanks to cloud kitchens and delivery across the city. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

The original Sushi Note in Sherman Oaks debuted in 2018, making a splash in Los Angeles’s acclaimed omakase scene by thoughtfully pairing wine with traditional sushi. The winning formula resonated with Angelenos in a big way, and now, with Sushi Note Omakase, chef Kiminobu Saito, along with partners Andy Paxson and Dave Gibbs, are taking the sumptuous experience to the next level. Tucked in a Beverly Hills parking garage, the 14-seat sushi den is overseen by culinary director Earl Aguilar and beverage director Ian Lokey. Together, the two have created an exclusive omakase experience grounded by a parade of pristine nigiri and punctuated by thrilling pours. The 20-course menu clocks in at $235 per person; wine pairings, which lean European with a slight emphasis on French varietals, level up every morsel and start at $150. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor

Si! Mon swept into Venice’s beachside dining scene in late September 2023, bringing with it a strong set of Panamanian flavors and dishes that span foodways from across Central America. Behind the menu is chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas, who grew up in Panama City and opened his seminal restaurant Fonda Lo Que Hay there. Now, in Los Angeles, Rojas has grappled with how to merge the flavors of his home city with the appetites of Angelenos. At every turn, he succeeds: The tightly composed menu zig-zags from buttery-briny starters like an uni and littleneck clam shooter to razor-thin, achiote oil-splashed tuna carpaccio draped over a yuca tostada to double-fried green banana patacones served with a lip-puckering ajillo sauce. Perhaps the pièce de résistance, however, is the gluten-free fried chicken drumsticks, which are lollipopped and dusted with a verdant seasoning salt comprised of pulverized roasted rice, shiitake mushrooms, and an intoxicating blend of alliums and herbs. (Diners also can’t go wrong with the crispy pork belly lettuce wraps served alongside coconut vinegar-spiked beans and the banana leaf-steamed kanpachi.) Planted in the former James Beach space, which has been done up with rich tropical colors and mid-century furniture, Si! Mon proves to be an unbeatable night out by the boardwalk. — Nicole Adlman, cities manager

The father of LA’s modern barbecue movement is a busy man. In July 2023, Bludso’s BBQ co-owner Kevin Bludso opened a new Santa Monica location. A month prior, Bludso won a coveted James Beard Award for his book Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul, while appearing as a judge on Netflix’s American Barbecue Showdown. Bludso, along with business partner, James Starr, also operates the original location on La Brea, a takeout counter at Proud Bird near LAX, plus additional restaurants in the Valley and Australia. One could say that Bludso is having a moment. This Compton native’s fame and strong following are years in the making, developed through perfecting Texas-style barbecue with a Los Angeles inflection. Traditional side dishes abound on the menu with cornbread, mac and cheese, baked beans, and potato salad. Every meat is placed in a custom-built smoker for up to 14 hours, adding the perfect amount of flavorful vapor to brisket, chicken, Texas-style hot links, pulled pork, and even smoked jackfruit for vegetarians. Though the takeout business is brisk, it’s best eaten while hot on-site with one of Bludso’s strong cocktails, especially the Pitmaster’s Punch with vodka, pineapple, grapefruit, and ginger. — Mona Holmes, reporter

Persian cuisine has made inroads in various locales in LA, from Glendale to the Valley and Tehrangeles in West Los Angeles thanks to intrepid restaurateurs like Ali and Shawn Salout, who opened Darya in Orange and eventually debuted Sadaf in Encino. With four restaurants now operated by Ali’s daughters Darya and Sadaf, the comforting flavors of Iran are on full display with fire-kissed kebabs, walnut-studded fesenjan, and earthy ghormeh sabzi topped with fall-apart veal. Sadaf’s Encino location offers a white tablecloth-filled dining room with plush banquettes and enough seating for big groups. — Matthew Kang, lead editor