Shukto — The unsung hero of Bengali cuisine which finds mention even in Ayurveda

The recipe of shukto varies across West Bengal, with each region adding its own twist, and the choice of vegetables reflecting local tastes. But one thing is common – it is cooked with methi seeds, kalonji, jeera, kali sarson, and saunf in equal parts (paanch phoron) with a popular variation using radhuni instead of kali sarson.

Shukto is cooked with panch phoron—a perfect blend of cumin, nigella, fenugreek, wild celery, and fennel seeds.

In conversation with sociologist Rituparna Patgiri, Assistant Professor, IIT Guwahati and chef Ananya Banerjee, a multi-cuisine gourmet expert, we delve into the origin, history, and delicacy of shukto, exploring its varieties and how it claims a significant spot on our already full plates.

Origins and nutritional significance

“There is a debate that shukto is influenced by Portuguese cuisine, as Bengal experienced Portuguese colonialism around the 16th century. However, food researchers, bloggers, and writers from Bengal and beyond have challenged this idea, asserting that shukto is mentioned in Ayurveda first because of its bitter taste. This taste is highly recommended in Ayurvedic dietary prescriptions,” Rituparna says.

According to Ayurvedic medicine, bitter gourd is excellent for balancing Kapha — the water and earth elements according to Ayurveda. It helps purify blood tissues, enhances digestion, and stimulates the liver. Bitter gourd is also known to help control diabetes. It contains vitamins A, B1, B2, and C. It also has minerals like calcium, phosphorus, iron, copper, and potassium.

She shares that this might be why researchers, bloggers, and writers argue that tracing the origins of shukto to the Portuguese influx is not accurate. She mentions that many Bengalis have heard of Mangal Kavya, where shukto is referenced. In these Bengali religious texts, composed between the 13th and 18th centuries, there is a kavya in which Lord Shiva asks Goddess Annapurna, the goddess of food and nutrition to cook shukto for him.

The Mangal Kavya consists of Manasā Mangal, Chandī Mangal and Dharma Mangal.

Lord Shiva himself descended with a bowl to receive alms from Parvati, a gesture that is revered by all. This act underscores the sanctity of food, as even the Supreme God came down to seek offerings from Annapurna Devi, the Goddess of nourishment.

We asked chef Ananya about the key challenges in achieving the perfect balance of flavours in Shukto. She highlighted the following:

Diverse ingredients: Shukto includes a variety of vegetables like bitter gourd, brinjal, raw banana, radish, and sweet potatoes, each with distinct flavours. Balancing the bitterness of the bitter gourd with the sweetness of other vegetables and the richness of milk or mustard paste requires precise measurements and timing.

Spice harmony: The spice mix often includes mustard seeds, panch phoron (a Bengali five-spice mix), ginger paste, and sometimes fenugreek seeds, which must be carefully balanced to avoid overpowering the dish.

Cooking technique: Overcooking or undercooking certain vegetables can lead to an imbalance in texture and flavour. Each vegetable needs to be cooked to the right level of doneness to contribute its intended flavour and texture.

Consistency: The consistency of the gravy or broth in shukto is crucial. It should neither be too watery nor too thick to ensure all flavours meld well together.

Diverse taste and traditions

Rituparna adds, “There are also people who say that since it is primarily a vegetarian dish, there are variations, including non-vegetarian versions found in Rabindranath Tagore’s family recipes and in some parts of Bangladesh and Bengal, where shukto is cooked with lean fish like magur (walking catfish) or rohu.”

While the dish is connected to Chaitanya’s movement of Bhakti and Vaishnavism, there is an ongoing debate about its origins — whether Portuguese, Bengali, or Indian. She also noted that Odisha has a similar dish called ‘santhula’, and many discuss potential similarities between the two.

Chef Banerjee shares that layering the flavours in shukto involves a meticulous process of cooking and sequencing. It begins by sautéing bitter gourd to infuse its distinct bitterness into the oil, ensuring it permeates the entire dish.

Shukto has a variety when it crosses the borders of West Bengal. It can range from using only cucumbers to even fish or meat in it.

Vegetables are added sequentially, starting with those requiring longer cooking times like raw banana and brinjal, followed by quicker-cooking varieties such as radish and sweet potato.

This gradual addition allows flavours to meld seamlessly. Mustard seeds and panch phoron are tempered initially, releasing their aromatic essence into the oil, establishing a robust flavour base. Towards the end, a touch of sugar and milk is introduced to delicately balance the bitterness without overpowering it, while a final addition of ghee enriches the dish, harmonising its complex flavours.

From Bengal to beyond

In East India, many food items share common traits, extending into Assam. Being Assamese, Patgiri doesn’t recall a version of shukto but notes the concept of mixed vegetables is present.

“Shukto varies by location based on availability of ingredients. Bitter gourd, or karela, is plentiful, and spices like paanch phoron and radhuni are typical of East Indian cuisine. A touch of poppy seeds, a local ingredient, also defines the dish,” adds Rituparna.

“Shukto is primarily a vegetarian dish and serves as a main course option for those who don’t eat meat. Experimenting with shukto can lead to delightful variations,” says Rituparna.

For a fusion twist, chef Banerjee says try incorporating non-traditional vegetables like zucchini or bell peppers while sticking to the original spices and cooking method. Adding protein like tofu or paneer can introduce a new texture and boost nutrition. For a refreshing update, consider infusing herbs like fresh coriander or mint towards the end of cooking.

She also tells us how another creative idea is using cashew paste or almond milk instead of regular milk for a nutty, creamy texture; almond milk is also a vegan-friendly alternative.

“To expedite cooking tougher vegetables such as raw banana and bitter gourd, consider using a pressure cooker, which reduces cooking time effectively. To prepare in advance, chop vegetables and organise spice mixes ahead of time to minimise preparation efforts. Utilising an Instant Pot can further streamline cooking, ensuring even cooking and enhanced flavour infusion. For simpler cooking on busy days, opt for a streamlined version with fewer vegetables while retaining essential flavours,” says the chef.

Then she adds, “Layering spices throughout the cooking process — tempering spices at the start, adding ginger paste midway, and finishing with garam masala or ghee — creates a complex flavour profile. Incorporating a variety of vegetables with different textures — crisp, soft, and creamy — adds interest to the dish.”

Regardless of the occasion—be it a wedding, a baby shower, or the Saptami or Ashtami Pujo meals—the Shukto invariably takes center stage on the plate, preceding all other dishes.

Slow-cooking shukto on low heat allows flavours to meld beautifully. Lastly, using fresh, high-quality ingredients such as freshly ground mustard paste elevates the authenticity of the dish.

By following these tips, home cooks can master the art of preparing shukto, crafting dishes that are both authentic and creatively adapted to modern tastes and time constraints.