From taboo to tradition, how paneer found a place in Indian cuisine

Paneer was introduced by Persian and Afghan rulers in the 16th century, primarily in North India, using goat or sheep rennet, an enzyme found in the intestines of ruminant animals or mammals which chew cud. The term ‘Paneer’ comes from the Turkish and Persian word peynir, meaning cheese.

The modern paneer made in homes and sold by companies doesn’t use rennet. Instead, it follows the method introduced by the Portuguese in the 17th century, which involves ‘breaking’ (curdling) milk with an acid like lemon juice.

Breaking or curdling milk was once considered taboo in India, which is why the Vedas mention curd, ghee, and butter but not paneer. The Portuguese introduced this technique, evident in Bengali cuisine with chhena, a crumblier version of North Indian paneer. The chhana in Bengal and Orissa is used sparingly in savoury dishes, unlike the rest of India. Instead, it is used to make a slew of desserts from sandesh to gulab jamun. Before the 18th century, Bengali sweets were made from evaporated milk or kheer, due to the belief that curdling milk with acid was a sin.

The emergence of paneer in India is linked to early Portuguese settlers in Bengal, who introduced chhana in the 17th century by curdling milk with vinegar or lime juice. The Portuguese, renowned for their confectionery, inspired Bengali confectioners to use cheese in their desserts. Many Portuguese men married Bengali Muslim women, skilled cooks and confectioners who adopted Portuguese culinary practices, leading to the widespread use of paneer in Indian kitchens, especially for sweets in Bengal.

French physician and traveller Francois Bernier, who lived in India from 1659 to 1666, noted Bengal’s fame for sweetmeats, particularly in Portuguese-influenced areas.

Folklore suggests that sandesh was created by a milkman who used curdled milk to make sweet roundels flavoured with jaggery. There is no way to check the veracity of this story, but it has been repeated often enough to have become part of the oral tradition that informs the mystique and history of sandesh.

Given the popularity of paneer makhani in Indian restaurants, here’s a tried and tested recipe for paneer and sandesh.

SANDESH

You need to get chhana or cottage cheese right here. Don’t take a shortcut and use store-bought cottage cheese.

Sandesh (Photo: Freepik)

SERVES: 10
PREPARATION TIME: 2 hours

INGREDIENTS

Milk 1 litre
Lemon juice 1–1.5 tbsp
Palm jaggery 2 tbsp
Sugar 3 tbsp

METHOD

Making the chhana or cottage cheese/paneer

Boil milk. As it begins to boil, lower the flame, add lemon juice or vinegar, and stir. The milk will curdle. Take the pan off the flame immediately.

Pour all the content into a deep bowl lined with muslin. Tie the muslin and squeeze the whey, draining most of the water in the process.

Rinse the chhana in the muslin under a tap. This will remove the sourness of the lemon juice or vinegar from the paneer. Place a heavy bowl on the muslin-wrapped whey for 25-30 minutes.

Remove the paneer from the muslin sack and place it on a plate or tray. Knead the paneer with your hands until the mixture becomes smooth and less grainy. Add jaggery or sugar and knead for two to three minutes more until it melts and releases some moisture.

Heat a slightly deep pan over a low flame. Add the paneer mixture and keep stirring for about 10 minutes until it starts to dry up and come together, maintaining a spongy texture. Remove from the pan and let it cool.

Knead the mixture again to achieve a smooth consistency. Shape it into round flat balls, making an indentation with your thumb to place a dried fruit, such as a raisin or almond. Refrigerate for an hour before serving to help firm up the sandesh pieces.

Next week, I’ll be deviating from the origins of food, and looking at some of my favourite recipes of pachadi – a pickle or raita made with fresh vegetables, served alongside main dishes in South Indian cuisine.