SCHIAPARELLI

A crash course in Haute Couture with Daniel Roseberry : How the pieces were made. Part 1. Filmed in the original Schiaparelli salons on 21 place Vendôme by Nisha and Jonathan Jacobs, with music by Ben Brunnemer. #Schiaparelli

SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE FALL WINTER 2024 “Cézanne started with all the tricks and then he broke the whole thing down and built the real thing. It was hell to do.” — Ernest Hemingway By March of 1932, Elsa Schiaparelli’s reputation was already made: a shape-shifting entrepreneur, she blurred the lines between fashion and art and life and art. A glorious enigma, she was (depending on who you asked) elusive or scandalous, shocking for her freedom, her lack of inhibition, and her apparent inability to care about convention. As her close friend Salvador Dalí said of her, “No one knows how to say Schiaparelli, but everyone knows what it means.” Nine years later, for the opening gala of the Ambassadeurs restaurant in Paris, Schiaparelli wore a gown painted by Dunand, with a coq-feathered stole smartly wrapped around her shoulders. It was an homage to the great ballerina Anna Pavlova, who had died that same year, and for whom, with her short black hair and sharp features, Schiaparelli was often mistaken. But if Pavlova was always associated with her iconic performance in “The Dying Swan,” then Schiaparelli was a phoenix, a magical creature whose power lay in her ceaseless ability to reinvent—not only herself, but fashion, too. The context of this collection, which honors Elsa’s singular gift for rebirth, is second only to its form. Each piece is clear in its silhouette and its technique: you can see every look’s origins, how each moved from sketch to study to fabric. As well, each look here is meant to elicit some type of emotion, albeit—to paraphrase Hemingway—an emotion that is deeply controlled. Each gown, each bustier, each shoe, every piece of folded velvet feather, or triple organza spike, seeks to catch the eye and hold it. The larger design, too, is meant to arrest but also to some extent mystify, to keep its secrets. That larger design is the continuously expanding universe of Maison Schiaparelli. I was told recently that “People don’t buy Schiaparelli, they collect it.” That kind of devotion is inspired only by a unique relationship between client and creation. This is what makes Haute Couture so special: it’s an expression of my vision for the Maison today, one free from marketing and merchandising. But it’s also something else: a way for me to honor that relationship, one of the most intimate ones in the world—the one in which I give women the power to be reborn, again and again and again. - Daniel Roseberry Video Titre Provisoire Music Ben Brunnemer.

"This feels like a collection Elsa Schiaparelli might have witnessed in a fleeting dream, or a psychic message transmitted to Roseberry by ghosts of the past – and it’s a stunning way to kick off the Fall 2024 couture season." THE BUZZWORDS Cinematic. Phantasmagoric. Surreal. Sculptural.

"Someone recently remarked to Daniel Roseberry, “People don’t buy Schiaparelli, they collect it.” That comment crystallizes the fashion fanaticism so many acolytes feel towards the house. And surely many collections will be enriched by the haute couture collection Roseberry, Schiaparelli’s artistic director, unveiled today in Paris. His starting point was very close to home: house founder Elsa Schiaparelli and her ability to endlessly reinvent herself. Specifically, he looked to one of her most memorable looks: a feathered ensemble she wore in the early 1940s, in tribute to the late ballerina Anna Pavlova and her signature “dying swan” performance. That idea of a phoenix rising from the ashes resulted in the title of the collection, and several looks that mimicked the bird’s plumage."

"The 1950s are regarded as the acme of haute couture, and turning his eye to that time is a signal of Roseberry’s ambitions. He said he wanted to “show the elasticity of the brand, and also the range of what I think I can do and the ateliers can do.” Indeed, together what they can do is quite stunning. Like the show-opening cape, with the broad shoulders of an eagle—or a phoenix, which was the show’s mascot, Schiap being so good at reinvention, Roseberry explained—with silver lozenge embroidery arranged to look like gleaming feathered wings."

THE PHOENIX Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024 by Daniel Roseberry “Cézanne started with all the tricks and then he broke the whole thing down and built the real thing. It was hell to do.” — Ernest Hemingway stylist Marie Chaix casting Piergiorgio del Moro makeup Pat McGrath hair Guido Palau nails Cam Tran film Titre Provisoire music Ben Brunnemer production Villa Eugénie.

SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE BY DANIEL ROSEBERRY MONDAY 10 AM, PARIS.

Divine Rihanna in a white silk faille skirt carrying the Schiaparelli Haute Couture baby by Daniel Roseberry for The Perfect Magazine. Photographed by Rafael Pavarotti Stylist Jahleel Weaver Editor-in-Chief Katie Grand.

The Paris-based fashion brand is opening a temporary boutique at the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo in Monaco on Saturday, featuring a day-to-evening wardrobe tailor-made for the French Riviera. The 1,075-square-foot space on the patio of the hotel, considered a jewel of Belle Époque architecture, will carry creative director Daniel Roseberry's Spring/Summer 2024 Ready-to-Wear, accessories, shoes, jewelry and leather goods, including a selection of exclusive creations. The brand has only five retail points of distribution, including its salon at 21 place Vendôme and shops-in-shop at Harrods department store in London; Bergdorf Goodman in New York City, and the Neiman Marcus flagships in Dallas and Beverly Hills.

From 21 place Vendôme to the French Riviera. Schiaparelli’s summer residence in Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo on Place du Casino in Monaco is now open! The interior draws inspiration from the history of 21 place Vendôme, and the surrealist codes of the house. The sofa and the carpet are embroidered with hand-drawn sketches by Daniel Roseberry, the pedestals are decorated with the signature measuring tape, and the custom furniture in Schiaparelli Gold has surreal details in the shape of ears, eyes and lips. The ephemeral boutique is open from Monday to Sunday 11 AM - 7 PM. #Schiaparelli