The New Wave of French Dining Finally Hits Detroit

French explorer Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac founded Fort Pontchartrain du Détroit in 1701 — which would later become known as the city of Detroit — and famously declared the area the “Paris of New France.” To this day, the “Paris of the Midwest” moniker has stuck, thanks to the city’s French architecture and similar urban planning approach. More recently, French cuisine has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity across the country, with everything from oeufs mayo popping up in restaurants across New York, French-meets-Midwest in Minneapolis, and pot-au-feu in San Francisco. The trend has fittingly made its way to Detroit, where a number of notable French-inspired eateries have cropped up as of late.

French dining is often associated with images of white linens and stuffy attitudes — but that doesn’t have to be the case. Nowadays, restaurants are taking a more laid-back approach to French cuisine, while still maintaining the proper respect for its storied tradition. With expert technique, simple ingredients are transformed into complex flavors. Steak tartare, an iconic French dish, is made with less than 10 ingredients, yet manages to bring out the most of each component. Steak frites — just steak and potatoes — is a staple at any brasserie or French eatery. Detroit’s French restaurants are embracing this simplified approach with braised beef bourguignon and sauteed foie gras making appearances on menus around the city.

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Le Suprême/Olsovsky Williams

Le Suprême (1265 Washington Boulevard) — This Book Tower tenant is designed to emulate casual, early 20th-century Parisian brasseries. For seafood lovers, order a half-dozen oysters, a shrimp or lobster cocktail, or go big and get the extravagant Suprême Plateau, a multi-tier seafood tower that’s great for sharing. The filet mignon au poivre is seared and covered in a punchy cognac peppercorn sauce. For vegetarians, the omelet Française is made with local eggs and Gruyere cheese, and topped with finely diced herbs. The in-house boulangerie, or bakery, is responsible for the bread and churns out other specialties such as flaky almond croissants and almond-based lemon financiers. Plus there’s a full-service bar with more than 300 wines, traditional absinthe service, and nine cocktails to pair with brunch or dinner.

Bar Pigalle (2915 John R Street) — Located in Brush Park, a neighborhood once known as Little Paris, this casual, but well-appointed space offers French cuisine and drink with a modern flair. Expect appetizers like oysters served with mignonette or foie gras torchon with fragrant dram-soaked apples and cinnamon toast points. The menu features a few takes on American comfort food, such as the Pigalle burger on a brioche bun topped with dill pickle, shredded iceberg lettuce, Dijonnaise, and house-made American cheese. For cocktails, try the Corsican Negroni, aptly named after the French island. A white Negroni, made with French gin and Suze has all of the bitterness and floral notes you expect from this Bordeaux ancestor.

Serena Maria Daniels

Cafe Sous Terre (445 W Forest Avenue) — Whether you’re looking for some caffeine to start your day or a cocktail to cap the night off, this Midtown cafe has you covered. Inspired by French and Francophone Caribbean culture, the drink menu incorporates ingredients that represent the flavors of both regions. The Round Midnight, for example, uses St. James Rhum Agricole — a sugarcane rum that traces its roots back to the French Caribbean island of Martinique. Morning visitors can enjoy hot or cold coffee and an assortment of baked goods. A cortado is the ideal pairing with a decadent creme brulee. Or for a savory option, try the gougères — a cheesy puff pastry.

Cuisine (670 Lothrop Street) — More than 23 years in, this New Center spot continues to lead the way in Detroit with regard to high-end French dining. Classique is king here, with creative, yet traditional approaches to dishes like the sauteed foie gras — served with a tangy cranberry relish and grape jelly toast points. For something heartier, try the sous vide beef tenderloin, accompanied by mushroom duxelles, potato cake, and a rich beef demi-glace. With ample wine and cocktail options, you’re bound to find the ideal pairing. Cuisine offers a limited three-course prix fixe menu on Fisher Theatre performance nights.

The Statler (313 Park Avenue) — This upscale bistro offers French-American cuisine with a menu of tried-and-true dishes like the steak tartare or oysters on the half shell. The roasted duck, a nod to the classic duck à l’Orange, is served with a sweet orange reduction and tangy kumquats, and topped with charred scallions. Save room for the roaming dessert cart, decked out with treats like rich dark chocolate mousse, topped with ganache, creme anglaise, and fresh berries.

The French Cow (Shed 5, Eastern Market, 2810 Russell Street) — No dish is more French than the crepe, and nowhere in Detroit does it better than this Eastern Market mainstay. The ultra-thin, easily folded street food is offered in a handful of sweet or savory options for enjoying on the go. Inspired by “The King’s” famous PB&J variation, the Elvis crêpe is made with bacon, peanut butter, and banana for a combination of salty and sweet. For a fruity option, the tutti frutti is filled with bananas and blueberries, with a healthy sprinkling of powdered sugar to top it off.

The French Lady (768 N Old Woodward Avenue, Birmingham) — Seasonal ingredients and wholesome cooking define this intimate restaurant, where French comfort foods like ratatouille and coq au vin are plentiful. Marinated for 48 hours in red wine and slow-cooked, the beef bourguignon is steeped in a flavorful red wine reduction to finish. For dessert, try the cherry clafoutis, a simple yet elegant dish loaded with fresh cherries and encased in a custardy cake. Sunday brunch offerings include classics like the croque-monsieur and ham and cheese crepe.