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The Best Dishes Eater Dallas Ate in May

This month brings mussels from Southern Italy, a strawberry cake to remember, one heck of a chicken parm sammy and more

A bowl holds mussels in an orange broth with lots of herbs and a spoon.
Mussels at Via Triozzi
Courtney E. Smith
Courtney E. Smith is the editor of Eater Dallas. She's a journalist of 20 years who was born and raised in Texas, with bylines in Pitchfork, Wired, Esquire, Yahoo!, Salon, Refinery29, and more. When she's not writing about food, she co-hosts the podcast Songs My Ex Ruined.

The amount of excellent food available in Dallas is dizzying, yet mediocre meals somehow keep worming their way into our lives. With your Eater Dallas editor dining out frequently, that means coming across lots of standout dishes and drinks that need to be shared.


A chicken parm sandwich sits on a tray, with brown paper. A pizza parlor is visible in the background.
Chicken parm a la Cenzo’s
Courtney E. Smith

Cenzo’s Pizza & Deli

1700 W 10th St.

The pizza at Cenzo’s is top-notch, but I went to try the sandwiches. It was my lucky day because owner Chad Dolezal told me it was Thursday — the only day the place serves its chicken parmesan sandwich, which he insisted I had to try. He wasn’t fooling around, and neither was the kitchen when they made this crispy chicken sandwich full of cheese and tomato sauce (both of which I managed to drip all over myself). It’s well worth making a Thursday appointment to get one of these.


A bowl holds mussels in an orange broth with lots of herbs and a spoon.
Mussels at Via Triozzi
Courtney E. Smith

Via Triozzi

1806 Greenville Ave.

A friend’s birthday celebration brought me back to Via Triozzi, Eater Dallas’s pick for best new restaurant in the 2023 Eater Awards. Currently on the menu is a beautiful dish of mussels bathed in Calabrian chili butter and served with the house focaccia for dipping. The dish, developed by chef Sonia Mancillas, gives traditional mussels a bright kick. It is the kind of dish that makes you want to lick the bowl. Mancillas promises it will stay on the ever-changing menu for June, so there is still plenty of time to try it for yourself.


A white plate holds a deconstructed strawberry and vanilla cake cut into small strips, dollops of strawberry and cream, a scoop of ice cream, microgreens, and brittle.
Spring strawberry cake at Rye.
Courtney E. Smith

Rye

1920 Greenville Ave.

Dinner to catch up with a friend brought me back to Rye in May, where a strawberry cake from its specials menu wowed at the end of a multi-dish dinner. It is strawberry season, so it is time to order such a dish. The combination of cake, strawberry puree, smooth ice cream, and crunchy, brittle-like bites hits every note the palette can take. The picture doesn’t do this dish justice — it was a remarkable plate of dessert.


A dish holds squid ink pasta with seafood and chorizo, topped with breadcrumbs and herbs.
Squid ink bucatini at Red Herring
Courtney E. Smith

Red Herring

319 S 4th St. in Waco

No one was more surprised than me by the level of excellence in the food and service at Red Herring when I popped down to Waco to research the Eater Dallas travel guide this month. There were so many great dishes at this restaurant that it was almost hard to choose one. Perhaps the most surprising, and remarked on by various servers who came to my table, is this squid ink bucatini with red shrimp, octopus, and chorizo. The pasta was big and luxurious, while the seafood played off of it nicely and matched the texture. The chorizo was the wild card. The kitchens elected a variety that wasn’t too spicy but still offered a flavor and texture compliment to the rest of the dish. All those bread crumbs and chives pushed it over the top into heavenly.

Via Triozzi

1806 Greenville Avenue, , TX 75206 (469) 897-5679 Visit Website

Rye

1920 Greenville Avenue, , TX 75206 (972) 803-3391 Visit Website