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Hoecakes
Updated Feb. 26, 2024
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- Total Time
- About 2½ hours
- Prep Time
- 5 minutes
- Cook Time
- About 30 minutes, plus 2 hours’ resting
- Rating
- Notes
- Read community notes
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Ingredients
- 2⅓cups fine or stone-ground white or yellow cornmeal
- 2cups/480 milliliters warm water
- ½teaspoon active dry yeast
- 2teaspoons salt
- About 1 cup/227 grams unsalted butter (2 sticks), softened
- Honey, for serving
Preparation
- Step 1
In a medium bowl, combine the cornmeal and warm water. Whisk well into a thick batter. Let rest for 10 minutes.
- Step 2
Sprinkle the yeast over the cornmeal mixture and whisk well. Cover with towel or plastic wrap and set aside for 15 minutes.
- Step 3
Add the salt to the mixture and stir very well. Allow to sit, uncovered, at room temperature for 1½ to 2 hours. The batter will rise and puff at the center.
- Step 4
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter, then whisk it into the batter until well combined.
- Step 5
Heat a large cast-iron pan or griddle on the stovetop over medium heat. Add about 1 tablespoon of butter to the pan. When the butter has melted, use a flexible spatula or brush to spread it around the pan’s surface.
- Step 6
Use a ¼ cup measure to scoop out the batter onto the pan. Cook the hoecakes in batches, leaving about 2 inches surrounding each hoecake. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes on each side or until lightly browned, adding 1 tablespoon of butter to the pan before turning the cakes to cook on the other side. (The cakes will become firmer once they are cooked.) Repeat until you’ve cooked off all the batter.
- Step 7
To serve, spread the hoecakes with softened butter and drizzle with honey to taste.
Private Notes
Cooking Notes
In Southern New England these pre-date Washington, are known as Johnny Cakes, and were first made by natives tribes like the Narragansett. Supposedly the English name derives from “journey cakes”, as corn meal doesn’t rot as quickly as wheat or other flours, so would last a traveler longer. They’re still made- crisp on the outside, moist in the middle- in homes and restaurants all over Rhode Island.
Born in the South in the 40ties, corn was our staple. In this recipe I found the use of water rather than milk or buttermilk made a very watery, batter; there was half again too much salt; the use of yeast seemed unusual but still I used it. Unhappy with this recipe I reverted to the way we made Hoe cakes in Georgia; half self-rising flour as well as half self-rising corn meal, an egg, vegetable oil and buttermilk. One can make small cakes on stove or one big one on iron griddle in the oven.
I have made these from Mount Vernon's recipe, and they are so good, I let the batter rest overnight.
Wow! A recipe for joe cakes in the NYT. We grew having these with dinner in the summer replacing baked cornbread because it was too hot to use the oven. Hoecakes with collard green, beans and rices, and iced tea = heaven. Yum!
I believe these are either an acquired taste or proof that a hungry man will eat anything.
Skip the yeast, add a teaspoon of baking soda, swap the butter for bacon fat, thats what Washington ate, and my grandparents, and me :)
Where did Washington's cooks get active dry yeast?
These sound so delicious! Re the Yeast question, here is a good reference. So Washington's cooks probably got it from the beer they were brewing. https://www.exploreyeast.com/what-is-yeast/yeast-one-of-humankinds-oldest-ingredients/
Having grown up in the rural south hoecakes have been a breakfast staple all my life. I have varied my recipe over the years and currently make them using only oatmeal however when I am having soup beans AKA pinto beans seasoned with a little bacon corn meal hoecakes are the way to go. It is interesting that the article does not mention the history of the name hoecake. Apparently farm hands built a fire and cooked their cakes on a hoe.
Some traditional recipes for hoecakes call for no leavening at all – they are just thick cornmeal mush, cooled, made into cakes, and griddled or fried. Have fun!
I make "hoecakes" all the time instead of heating up the oven for a whole pan of cornbread. 2 cups of self rising cornmeal, 1/4 cup oil, 1-1/2 cups buttermilk and 1 egg. Mix it all together and fry about 1/4 cup batter for each cake in a little bit of oil, flipping once, for about 5 minutes. My husband and nephew devour them. Can easily be halved. The full recipe makes 10-12 hoecakes.
They must have used what today is known as sourdough starter. There was no commercial dry yeast 200 years ago.
Barm (yeast froth from beer making) was readily available in colonial times, and was preferred to sourdough starters for bread making.
The recipe calls for 2 teaspoons of salt. Is it sea salt, table salt, kosher salt, or what?
In those days it’s likely they used well-washed brewers yeast, a by-product of beer brewing, bought in moist, living blocks called cakes. it was washed for baking because as a by-product of making beer it was typically very bitter.
I did not use yeast. I riffed off one of the comments: 1 cup self-rising flour, 1 cup cornmeal for tortillas, 1tsp baking soda, 1/2 tsp sugar, 1 tsp salt; add 1.5 cup buttermilk, 1 beaten egg; stir; add 2 T melted butter
I tried twice, once using yeast and once with baking soda. I found neither palatable so I fed them to the compost bin. I'm sure there's a reason for my failure but no idea what . . .
My father, born in 1908 in Middle Tennessee, called these saltwater pancakes. They were always a treat. Yes, there are easier ways to get some version of a corn cake, and fried polenta is quite nice, but these are something very different, and worth the effort. I am so grateful to have the recipe. No one in my family ever wrote one down.
I have no idea what went wrong, but sadly these were a disappointment. The batter stuck to the pan despite repeated attempts to add more butter/oil. I may try again, but will try what someone else suggested about using self-rising cornmeal, buttermilk, and oi.
how would using buttermilk and baking soda change the resting time?
I used Quaker yellow cornmeal and maybe that wasn't finely ground enough? The yeast seemed to have no effect at all. After almost 8 hours I still had just a wet cornmeal mush. Cooked in butter, it basically became a bland piece of grilled polenta. Still edible. But only when smothered in honey. I really doubt this is how Chef Hercules would make these. Maybe he reserved his blandest cooking for his enslaver (rightly so).
"Given the president’s dental issues and wealth, the cornmeal used for his hoecakes was probably a finer, higher-quality grind than the coarser meal given to his enslaved community as weekly rations." This is a reportorial presumption apparently finding no basis in historical fact. Yes, we all know that Washington was a slave-owner etc. etc. But since you have no real evidence to support this -- why write it?
I was in a mood for history, so I went out of my way to make these. They were tasteless, but otherwise the recipe worked well. Only a guy who wore wooden dentures would like these. Ick.
Similar to corn pones, made with cornmeal, salt, boiling water and fried in bacon fat.
Better, fluffier, when the batter rests overnight.
First time I made this was a disaster. Too wet, made with water. Too dry and fell apart. I'm looking at the comments, guess I'm not the only one. Will try again, using buttermilk an eggs to hold together. The honey did make it better, even though not very tasty.
Has anyone tried adding frozen corn? I'm just thinking this might add some added something. Also I am also adding crusted red peppers for a little spice in life. What the heck.
Can we use magic baking powder instead of yeast to speed up the process?
Love corn cakes, and these remind me of a favorite breakfast: Growing up in NY in '50s and '60s, you could buy a package of maybe six neat little corn cakes, each about 3-4 inches wide. Not sure, but I think Entenmanns made them. We usually had "farina" (hated it) for breakfast on cold winter mornings, but sometimes had these corn cakes, toasted crispy in toaster and with butter liberally applied. Delicious, easy, and wish they were still sold.
they were made by thomas' and are still sold! https://thomasbreads.com/products/thomas-corn-toast-r-cakes#:~:text=Thomas'%C2%AE%20Corn%20Toast%2DR%2DCakes%20%7C%20Thomas'%20Breads
Tasteless, dry, crumbly. Needs an egg whisked into the batter along with some dried fruit. There are many better cornmeal pancake recipes.
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