Creamy Doenjang Pasta

Creamy Doenjang Pasta
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
30 minutes
Rating
4(507)
Notes
Read community notes

Soybean pastes and noodles make good friends, as in Alexa Weibel’s five-ingredient creamy miso pasta. This version leans into the funkier, saltier flavor of doenjang, a Korean soybean paste whose pungency is an absolute pleasure in jjigaes, sauces and even bread made in a can. Here, doenjang is tempered by the natural sweetness of milk, which stars in many Korean takes on Italian pasta. The milk thickens as it mixes with the starchy noodles and creates a velvety sauce, one that tastes rich but measured, with a rounded cheesy quality. It will seem like a lot of liquid at first, but the milk will reduce. The finished pasta sauce will continue to thicken once it’s off the heat; add more pasta water if it starts to look dry.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • Salt
  • 1pound linguine, bucatini or spaghetti
  • 2cups whole milk
  • ¼cup doenjang (see Tip)
  • 2tablespoons mirin
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • ¼cup unsalted butter
  • Grated Parmesan, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Bring a large, wide pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high. Cook the pasta until about 2 minutes shy of al dente (according to package instructions); it should still be a little uncooked in the center and will finish cooking in the sauce later. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking water, drain the pasta and return it to the empty pot. While the pasta is cooking, pour the milk into a large liquid measuring cup or medium bowl. Whisk in the doenjang, mirin and a generous crack of black pepper until the doenjang dissolves.

  2. Step 2

    To the pasta pot, add the butter, milk mixture and half of the pasta water. Bring to a simmer over high. Cook, stirring constantly and vigorously with a wooden spoon, until the sauce reduces and thickens significantly, coating the noodles like thin cream, 5 to 7 minutes. Taste and season with salt if needed.

  3. Step 3

    Divide among plates. Top with as much grated Parmesan as you’d like and another crack of black pepper. Serve immediately.

Tip
  • You can find doenjang, often labeled “soybean paste,” in Korean or Asian supermarkets and online, either in jars or in plastic rectangular tubs. Funkily pungent and packed with savoriness, doenjang is a magical flavor booster that is often compared to Japanese miso but has a saltier, more assertive kick. Even a mere tablespoon of this beloved Korean paste, full of fermented sourness and deep Parmesan-like umami, can enliven all manner of soups, stews and sauces with unparalleled brio.

Ratings

4 out of 5
507 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

This comment needs clarification: the package you bought, if it includes anchovies, is not vegetarian. But most doenjang is. It is a paste that comprises soybeans and brine. The brine is made minimally with just salt and water, but may also include flavorings like honey and hot peppers. If the brand you bought includes anchovies, it is not by any means the norm (but certainly not forbidden) - just the choice made by that manufacturer.

Take pasta out 2 mins shy of Al dente, and cook with the sauce for another 5-7 mins? Sounds like noodles will be overcooked. Is the instruction correct on this?

Of course--they will cook much more slowly in a low-moisture environment than they would in a pot of water.

Oat milk worked well (lactose allergy). Served with salmon, crunched some gim over all. Really good!

We really like this recipe. It has become our late night indulgence dish. Super satisfying & easy to make while tired. Lately I add a handful plus of dried cremini (criminal) mushrooms to the pasta as it cooks. They rehydrate & give the starchy pasta water mushroom funk. And the mushrooms have a lovely chew in the final dish. Fifth Flavor to the nth degree! This was our first introduction to doenjang, thank you Eric Kim.

Yum! Served it with lots and lots cracked pepper. Next time I might sprinkle chili flakes on top. This was delicious :)

Tastes great! Why are the comments so critical??

Okay, wild. This tastes just like a Stouffer’s turkey tetrazzini frozen dinner. Add some breadcrumbs, sliced mushrooms, and shredded chicken/turkey for the full experience. Will absolutely be making this again.

I absolutely love this fusion of Italian and Korean! It hits all the right comfy food inner child sparks for me. It's the one pasta dish I can make quickly and my family loves it. As for the amount of milk, I personally like the stronger doenjang flavor so I added in only 1.5 cups of milk instead of 2 and also added in 1 tablespoon of garlic with the butter. It's delish with a much more earthy flavor.

Don’t skimp on freshly ground pepper - delicious! What a creative and delicious recipe!

I love traditional Korean food with doenjang, but I thought this combination was disgusting. I don’t agree whatsoever that doenjang goes with pasta and milk, much less cheese. Thankfully I only wasted a little good Parmesan; this was a two-bite special that is going in the garbage.

Another Eric Kim smash! I topped this with chickpeas for protein and cooked mushrooms and leeks (was meal prepping a quiche while making this for dinner) and it helped round out the meal. Chili crisp on top and kimchi on the side — wonderful!

This was good, but I agree that the addition of gochujang would add to the flavor. Next time, I will cook the milk/doenjang mixture separately and then add to the al dente pasta.

I don't get the appeal of this recipe. It was very bland. I followed directions exactly.

Wife thought it smelled like fresh baked bread and I found it reminiscent of sourdough bread with the funkiness. I ended up adding some gochujang chili flakes late to add some heat. Would probably add it earlier to get the oils into the sauce.

Made to recipe. This dish is perfectly creamy and umami without being too rich. We had it again for a special occasion, and although this pasta doesn’t need anything else, we did add a ribeye steak and some green onions to garnish. Paired really well actually and am just disappointed that there will never be another meal I can make that will top this one.

Wow. Just wow. This will be my forever comfort pasta. I added extra cracked pepper at the end and subbed mirin for rice vinegar and a pinch of sugar. It was perfect.

Very good, will probably make again at some point. As I typically do, I used a skillet to boil the pasta, which uses less water and fits spaghetti better. Judging from some of the comments, I think the “large, wide pot” (as specified in Step 1) is crucial to the correct evaporation that thickens the sauce. I added a bit of blanched kale (boiled before the pasta) and some mushrooms, just because I needed to use them up. I also sautéed a little bit of garlic and some chili flakes in the butter.

Took me a while to get this right but I did and it’s addictive. I use whole fat milk and fettuccine, and sometimes I boil up some oyster mushrooms with the pasta. Is it only me but the portion sizes described here seem HUGE; I cut the recipe by 1/4 but still had leftovers.

delicious! be patient with the sauce it gets creamy and luscious. i was skeptical that it was going to come together but it was so good. it’s like alfredo meets carbonara meets funk (which YES is a good thing - some of the best foods are funky, misguided commenter)

Wow, this was delicious. I made a generous half batch to use up whipping cream I had. To make it more a complete meal, I lightly sautéed thinly sliced mushrooms with garlic in a separate sauté pan before adding in the liquids and par-pasta. About a minute before the pasta was done, I threw in some frozen chopped spinach. Ridiculously easy and delicious.

This was good! Topped with gochugaru, furikake, and a lot of black pepper. Might include the gochugaru in the cooking process next time.

I made half the recipe since it was for just me. I plated half. An hour later, I ate the rest cold. Make this.

The recipe as written is great I tried it and really enjoyed the pasta. I must say however, the method is so good and versatile when trying to create a creamy pasta. I used the method to make lemon ricotta pasta, but rather than make ricotta i used this method and it came out amazing.

I made this vegan by using Califia oat milk, Miyoko’s European butter, and nutritional yeast instead of parm. It was fast to make and super delicious. Husband who is an omnivore went for seconds. We also added some Korean red pepper flakes (gochugaru). Thanks for the creative recipe!!

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