Sous-Chef Salad

Sous-Chef Salad
Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Sue Li. Prop stylist: Nicole Louie.
Total Time
30 minutes
Rating
4(944)
Notes
Read community notes

Following the model of a classic French salade composée, this satisfying salad, packed with cooked and raw vegetables, as well as canned best-quality tuna and hard-boiled eggs, presents beautifully and eats like a meal. It builds upon a traditional salade niçoise, but a true niçoise uses no lettuce, often has anchovies, would want cracked black niçoise olives and would not have artichoke hearts and basil. So let’s call this a sous-chef salad — and dodge the whole argument while picking up another: It is definitely the best meal salad you will eat all summer. Take care to arrange it so there’s some of each component wherever your eye lands. Try to nestle and fluff the ingredients to allow them all to be seen, rather than piling layer atop layer and thus obscuring the beauty of everything below. This makes the salad very attractive and, most important, ensures that everyone gets some of everything in each bite.

Featured in: A Salad So Good You Can Eat It for Breakfast

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Ingredients

Yield:2 servings
  • Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 5ounces marble potatoes
  • 6ounces green beans, stems removed, tails intact
  • 4large eggs (refrigerator cold)
  • 1small head soft lettuce, such as butter or red-leaf lettuce
  • 1bunch radishes
  • 4ounces artichoke hearts in brine
  • 3 to 4ounces ripe cherry tomatoes (red, yellow or mixed)
  • 1(6.7-ounce) jar high-quality tuna packed in oil
  • ½small red onion (about 2 ounces), halved and thinly sliced
  • 1ounce pitted Kalamata olives, halved (about ¼ cup)
  • 3garlic cloves, freshly peeled
  • 1 to 2tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • Extra-virgin olive oil (about ¼ cup)
  • 2large, leafy basil sprigs (2 to 3 ounces)
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (2 servings)

763 calories; 47 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 28 grams monounsaturated fat; 8 grams polyunsaturated fat; 39 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams dietary fiber; 9 grams sugars; 50 grams protein; 1764 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Bring a large pot of water to boil over high heat. Add plenty of salt to taste of the sea.

  2. Step 2

    Add potatoes, and boil until the thin tip of a knife can pierce a potato as if going into soft wax, 8 to 9 minutes. Retrieve potatoes with a spider, and let cool and drain on a baker’s rack set into a sheet pan nearby.

  3. Step 3

    Add green beans to still-boiling water, and boil until the color transforms from raw and dusty to saturated deep green, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove with a spider, and set out to drain and cool on the baker’s rack.

  4. Step 4

    Add the eggs directly from the refrigerator into the boiling water, and boil for 8 minutes. Dump eggs and boiling water into the sink, letting the shells crackle as they land hard. Peel eggs while submerged under cold running water, which helps to stop the cooking and release the shells easily. Set peeled eggs to rest on the rack.

  5. Step 5

    While eggs boil, wash and spin-dry lettuce.

  6. Step 6

    Remove green leafy tops from radishes, and save for another use, if desired. Wash and carefully rinse radishes, taking care to remove any grit or sand.

  7. Step 7

    On a large rimmed platter, begin to assemble the salad by tearing the clean, dry lettuce and arranging it as the bed.

  8. Step 8

    Use a sharp paring knife to split the green beans in half crosswise. Scatter them artfully around the bed of lettuce.

  9. Step 9

    Split the potatoes in half and arrange artfully.

  10. Step 10

    Split artichokes, if whole, into quarters and arrange artfully.

  11. Step 11

    Repeat with cherry tomatoes, followed by radishes, split into quarters, then eggs, quartered into wedges.

  12. Step 12

    Remove tuna from the jar with a fork. Break it into chunks, and nestle it into the mound of salad. Drizzle the tuna oil over the salad.

  13. Step 13

    Finish with scattered red onion and split olives.

  14. Step 14

    Microplane the garlic into a small bowl. Add red-wine vinegar and 3 to 4 long glugs of olive oil (about ¼ cup), and stir together briskly. Season with salt and a lot of freshly ground pepper.

  15. Step 15

    Just before dressing the salad, tear the basil leaves to release their fragrance. Scatter them around the whole salad.

  16. Step 16

    When ready to serve, drizzle dressing evenly and thoroughly over salad. When ready to eat, toss to dress, and don’t worry about messing up the beauty.

Ratings

4 out of 5
944 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

In salad recipes, for a milder taste, I use scallions or chives instead of onions, including red onions. For the same reason, when preparing vinaigrettes I do not add grated or chopped onions; I cut a garlic clove in half and let it soak in the vinaigrette for a few minutes, for flavor, removing the garlic before adding the dressing to the salad.

I have been making this salad for years, though I tend to use pickled red onions, which I keep as a refrigerator staple. Sometimes I sear a piece of tuna, sometimes I just use a good tuna in oil. If I can get my hands on some beautiful white anchovies, I throw those in too. Guests can eat what they like. That's the beauty of this salad. It's like a salad bar on a platter. Serve with a good, crusty bread, a crisp bottle of white wine, and a good friend.

Lime juice (with a bit of salt) brined red onion slices (thin) are delicious in salad and I will use them here. My DIL, who hates onions in salad, gobbles up these brined red onion slices in any salad. They are easy and very quick to prepare.

Instead of tossing salads like this, I separately toss potatoes, green beans and lettuce with a little dressing first then arrange everything else and drizzle on more dressing. That way it stays pretty and everyone can take what they want.

After years of boiling eggs, I finally converted to steaming them - about 12 minutes is right. The shells come off much more easily and cleanly.

Looking for notes from people who made the recipe before commenting, I found just one - from Randy (thank you). Made the recipe exactly as written, and it was substantial and delicious. I have admired Chef Hamilton for years, and consider her recipes a gift.

Janet H. I agree. Readers’ comments often appear to be more about one-upmanship than actual observation of the recipe.

I had my first salad of the season this week, unlike the bean or grain salads I indulge in year round. A Kitchen Sink Salad, I go through the refrigerator and pantry to toss things in. But the base always includes leaf lettuces and everything gets tossed in a sealed container so that the dressing coats everything. And it always elicits the same phrase from me that my grandfather uttered after every meal, "Merci, bon Dieu."

Amen to RCT’s comment. I usually keep pickled red onions in my fridge and substitute for fresh (which are generally too strong for me). An alternative is to slice the onion before you begin cooking, salt generously, and cover with cold water and ice cubes. Let sit until ready to use, then drain. OR use a sweet Vidalia or Maui onion.

This was really good and I'll make it again. No changes in the recipe, but I did assemble it on plates as two separate servings.

When long red peppers are available, I always roast up a bunch, and keep them in. A jar with olive oil,a little vinegar and some capers. They make any salad a little more sprightly.

This reminds me very much of my mom Penelope Casas' "Ensalada Catalana," a "meal salad" I grew up with. My mom's salad is marinated overnight, however, so the potatoes, vegetables and tuna are infused with the dressing. It doesn't have lettuce so it doesn't get soggy and lasts for days.

I firmly believe the universally accepted best method of hard boiling eggs is the following. Place your eggs into a medium sized pot and cover with tap water. Bring the pot of water to a boil and boil for one minute. Take the pot off the heat, cover, and time for ten minutes. Empty the hot water bath, cool with cold tap water and fill pot the eggs with ice, making an ice bath. When eggs have sufficiently chilled, peel under a light stream of cold tap water. Perfect every time.

I dress the salad before adding the eggs and tuna. Then I gently fold them in, and as a finishing touch sprinkle whatever fresh herbs I have on hand, chopped coarsely. Chives, parsley, tarragon...even mint work great. Even some toasted pistachios go well. The vegetables are well dressed and beauty still reigns. With a meal like this, some toasted, buttered baguette is a great treat.

If there were truly a universally accepted best method would there be any others? Your best method is not best for everyone. I am a distracted cook and rely on timers. Watching a pot boil is proverbially hard to do, and I can't set a timer for just that point in time when my pot is boiling. On top of that I always waffle about what qualifies as the start of boiling. Putting cold eggs in already boiling water and setting a timer is an alternate approach that works well and is easy to reproduce.

I haven’t made this yet but when I do tonight I will use my instant pot for the eggs/potatoes so I don’t heat up the kitchen, zap the green beans in the microwave, will use chicken instead of tuna and won’t bother with the dressing because my family will douse it in Trader Joe’s balsamic vinegarette no matter what I do. I will not post a comment afterwards declaring it delicious then detailing all my substitutions because it’s a SALAD and all I really needed was a template for dinner tonight.

I've made this salad several times over the past couple of years. It's delicious as written. When making it for myself it's three meals; I don't initially use as much lettuce-just adding it at the time I'm serving myself.

Haven't made this yet but the directions are poetic. Feeling inspired.

I don’t like a lot of oil in my food, so I’ve made this salad with tuna packed in water. The dressing has the oil. I usually keep the dressing separate, which lets us dress our salads to our liking. Cold, poached salmon is a great alternative to the tuna.

I made this to host lunch for a friend who does not eat gluten or dairy. Omitted artichokes and olives. I subbed asparagus for green beans. Used Tonnino tuna. Added sliced cucumbers. It was delicious! I mixed each component with the dressing and then composed the salad. It would be great for a picnic or potluck.

Agree with Dawn that anchovies are a must. Also, if you like your green beans with a tiny bit of crunch, cut the boil time by a minute and plunge them in cold water right away to stop them cooking more. Delicious!

I’ve made this recipe lots of times now it’s a solid salad idea - especially with good tuna. This time I left out the green beans cause I’ve never really liked them and always end up with too many that I don’t eat when I buy them. And I forgot to buy artichokes- it’s still delicious. I did add anchovies to the salad dressing this time cause I felt like it.

made my own dressing garlic, dijon mustard, lemon juice, lemon zest, red onion, olive oil, all in the food processor

This was delicious - we love a Nicoise salad, this was virtually the same. Used canned tuna for this version as we had it on hand, skipped the green beans, and added quick pickled red onion. I made my own dressing though with some garlic, dijon mustard, lemon juice, red wine vinegar, olive oil, and some zatar.

instead of tuna, for us vegetarians, I've used chickpeas or white cannelini beans tossed with a bit of olive oil before artfully arranging them on the salad. i also dislike jammy yolks so my favorite way to get 'perfect' hard boiled eggs is to put cold eggs in cold water and boil for 14 minutes then shock in cold water. perferct without any green/grey ring around the yolk..

I find that boiling green beans over 4 1/2 minutes is asking for mushy beans. Check them before 4 minutes.

Plea for help :) - whene I've tried putting very cold eggs directly into boiling water, they fine-crack and the whites drool into the water and get all rubbery and weird. The only way that never happens is when I take the eggs out of the fridge for a while first, take the chill off. (Or start with cold eggs and cold tap water and bring to a boil together, but that's harder for me to time...) Why is it important in this recipe that the eggs be super-cold when they hit the water, does anyone know?

Except you better scrub your sink before you dump the eggs in it. Boiling water alone isn't enough to kill what lurks!

Should I also be sure my hands are clean?

I made this during the pandemic for an outdoor summer luncheon. It took me a lot longer than 30 minutes! But the result was worth it. Beautiful and delicious.

The best tuna salad I ever made. It took me an hour from start to finish to prepare and I skipped the boiled eggs. It’s a very laborious process.

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