Jan Mangold

Trust > Discus > Decide > Deliver 🚀 I couldn‘t agree more to the leadership principles of Daniel Grieder! It sounds easy and many managers believe, that this is just how they run their business. But TRUST within the team needs to be earned by being integrative, transparent, explanatary, reliable and showing strong believe both in the people and the devolped strategy. With this mindset established from C-Level to all operational levels, it needs RIGID EXECUTION for sustainable success. Kudos to Daniel Grieder for being a role model of this kind of modern leadership! #trust #leadership #changemanagement

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Steady at the tiller - It's a tough moment for fashion in general and the luxury industry in particular. Not only has demand remarkably slowed, for example in China, but also several luxury brands are facing a certain backlash from consumers who are turned off by extraordinary price hikes. Well, Giorgio Armani has (once again) taken a different direction. "In recent seasons, we have sacrificed some margin points to avoid raising retail prices to the levels that inflation would have dictated", says the designer and entrepreneur who recently has celebrated his 90th birthday. "We are well-prepared to manage a market slowdown without needing to maximise year-on-year profit at all costs." In FY 2023, his group has recorded a revenue increase of 6% at constant exchange rates to 2.45 bn Euros with an Ebit of 215 million Euros, hence an Ebit margin of approximately 9%. That's not stellar, but that's no reason for concern, on the contrary, says Armani: "I remain steadfast in my belief that a focus on continuity and a pragmatic, consistent approach is the only way to navigate the challenges and uncertainties that characterise today’s environment." In nautic terms: In a rough see, a firm hand on the tiller is needed. Check-out the full analysis on TextilWirtschaft. #apparel #clothing #retail #luxury #luxus #results #mode #fashion #italy #cnmi #milanfashionweek #designer #entrepreneur #branding #marketing #price #rtw #bekleidung

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Have you ever thought about how much #sleeves can influence the overall look of clothing❓ Sleeves have been a valued part of fashion design throughout history. 👚 During the Renaissance in Europe, courtly dresses often featured prominent sleeves like 'leg-of-mutton' or #puffsleeves.🎈 👸At first, European nobles used silk to stuff their sleeves to display their status and wealth, often letting a bit of the fabric peek out. Over time, these puff sleeves evolved into a choice of art and philosophy. 🧵🧶 During the Romantic period, nobles used sleeve supports to hold up large sleeves, aiming to appear slender-waisted. Thus, puff sleeves gradually became associated with words like "noble," "dignified," and "classical".🎻 Fashion designers have made various changes to puff sleeves on the runway—altering fabrics, patterns, and cuts to fit modern styles. Puff sleeves continue to appear in fashion shows in 2025.⏩⏩ With a history of 600 or 700 years, puff sleeves can endure, which is the embodiment of the designer's continuous innovation and the common choice of the public aesthetic.👏 The mystery of sleeves remains, with designers constantly exploring and experimenting. Perhaps you can discuss the magic of "sleeves" with Qijia's professional team at Premiere Vision this July. ✨We're waiting for you in Hall 6, 6T69. #fashion #apparel #textiles #manufacturing #retail #knitwear #ecommerce #supplychain #sustainability #branding #entrepreneurship #innovation #design #fashionweek #garment #population #style #woven #innovation

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It’s a great time to be in ugly shoes. Deckers Brands (UGG + HOKA) Q1 Earnings were strong. - Rev +10% YoY  - Gross Profits +24% YoY - SG&A +11% YoY - Net Income: +42% YoY + They have $1B in cash on hand. What’s most surprising is DTC ($250m) is leading the growth (+26% YoY). Wholesale ($425m) is actually -1% YoY. I’m sure no one's surprised Hoka’s is leading the growth (+27% YoY). What might be surprising is Hoka is carrying the whole team: - UGG: -6% YoY - Teva: -19% YoY - Sanuk: -32% YoY - Other brands (Koolaburra): -33% YoY  That 2013 Hoka acquisition for $1.1m isn’t looking too bad. I’m smelling a carve out/shutdown soon. Koolaburra + Sanuk = $10m (1.5% total Sales). Are you an Ugg or Hoka household? #shopify

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Why Choose ETPU Outsoles Over EVA Phylon Outsoles? When selecting outsoles for sports shoes, manufacturers often face a choice between ETPU and EVA Phylon materials. Each has its own advantages, but ETPU outsoles are becoming increasingly popular due to their superior performance characteristics. Superior Cushioning and Resilience ETPU (Expanded Thermoplastic Polyurethane) provides excellent cushioning and resilience. Unlike EVA Phylon, ETPU offers a higher energy return, which enhances athletic performance by providing a spring-like effect with each step. This property makes ETPU outsoles particularly beneficial for running and high-impact sports. Durability and Longevity ETPU outsoles are more durable than EVA Phylon. They retain their shape and cushioning properties over time, even under heavy usage. This durability translates into longer-lasting footwear, reducing the need for frequent replacements and providing better value for money. Lightweight and Comfortable Despite their durability, ETPU outsoles are lightweight, contributing to overall comfort. Athletes can perform better when their footwear is light, reducing fatigue during long training sessions or competitions. This balance of durability and lightness is a significant advantage over EVA Phylon. Eco-Friendly Options ETPU is also more environmentally friendly compared to EVA Phylon. The production process of ETPU involves fewer harmful chemicals and can be more sustainable. This makes it an attractive choice for environmentally conscious brands and consumers. At our factory in Jinjiang, China, we specialize in designing and developing high-quality ETPU outsoles. Our team leverages advanced technology to create outsoles that meet the highest standards of performance and durability. We are committed to offering innovative solutions that cater to the evolving needs of the sports footwear industry. #ETPU #outsoles #sportsfootwear #JinjiangChina #footwearinnovation #sustainablefootwear #sportshoes #calzados #Zapatillas

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Market2024: NO.31 Poll Summary: Fashion's Impact on Eyewear Choice Poll Results: A Great Deal: 18 votes (🌟) Moderately: 11 votes (👍) Slightly: 6 votes (👌) Not at All: 7 votes (🙅‍♂️) Quick Take: Fashion plays a big role for many when picking eyewear, with 29 folks valuing style from a bit to a lot! 👓🎨 Advice: Shoppers: Mix it up! Choose frames that match both your style and comfort. 🎭👓 Retailers: Stock a variety of styles to cater to all fashion tastes. 🏬👀 Let's keep rocking those stylish frames! 🚀👓 #Eyewear #Fashion #StyleChoices #Market2024 #marketresearch

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French-Italian eyewear giant has agreed to buy the streetwear juggernaut Supreme from VF Corporation Corp. for $1.5 billion in cash, adding another lifestyle brand to a stable that already includes Ray-Ban and Oakley. Supreme was founded in New York by James Jebbia in 1994. It sells clothes and footwear targeting skateboarding and urban trends. With its distinct red and white logo, Supreme has moved from being a cult favorite to a mainstream success. It now has an online business as well as 17 stores in the US, Asia, and Europe. EssilorLuxottica shares traded 3% lower early Wednesday in Paris, trimming their year-on-year gain to 10%. VF was down 0.5% in premarket US trading. Jebbia said he supports the sale to Essilor as it will allow Supreme to focus on its brand, products and customers. Supreme’s growth has been fueled by so-called “hype” marketing, including limited-edition collaborations with partners ranging from watchmakers to musicians, and frequent “drops” of new products. Among others, it has tied up with Louis Vuitton and The North Face. VF acquired Supreme in 2020 as part of a $2.1 billion deal with private equity firm Carlyle Group and investors including Goode Partners. EssilorLuxottica was formed from the merger of two of Europe’s most prominent eyewear companies — Italy’s Luxottica and France’s Essilor. It is a global leader in the production and sale of prescription eyeglasses, sunglasses and contact lenses. Bloomberg #brands #marketing #retailing #mergers

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The Fashion Roundtable ORG LTD latest report makes for important reading. Overview of the Fashion & Economic Value Report 2024 Our latest report illuminates the vast contributions of the UK's fashion sector, which generates approximately £60 billion annually—nearly half of the total economic impact from the UK's creative industries. It explores the economic influence, regional growth, and pivotal role in sustainability and innovation of the fashion industry.  Key Findings: Economic Impact: Fashion is the largest of the UK's creative industries, contributing around £60 billion per year to the economy and employing 1.3 million people. Regional Growth: The fashion industry supports regional economies, with notable increases in fashion businesses in Scotland and employment growth in Manchester. Sustainability Challenges: The industry faces significant challenges related to sustainable manufacturing practices and the environmental impact of fast fashion. Recommendations: Prioritise UK Manufacturing: Given the economic contribution of the fashion industry, it is crucial to prioritize keeping and expanding clothing manufacturing in the UK to boost economic growth. Support Regenerative Practices: Introduce tax and financial incentives to support regenerative and sustainable practices, ensuring skilled jobs can be developed to underpin local economies. Increase Responsibilities of Fast Fashion: Implement laws to hold fast fashion companies accountable for their environmental impact, preventing them from skewing the market in a damaging way. Develop Recycling Infrastructure: Work with the private sector to unlock funding and space needed to develop textile recycling centres, creating jobs and supporting local economies. Encourage Fashion Startups: Monitor the success of fashion startups and ensure university curriculums equip students with the necessary business skills to thrive in the evolving fashion industry. Integrate Fashion in Devolved Powers: Consider the role of the fashion industry when allocating funding and powers to devolved areas, ensuring local strategies support regional economic growth. The fashion industry remains a cornerstone of the UK economy, previously the fastest-growing creative industry in the country. Our report provides a comprehensive overview of the current landscape and proposes actionable solutions for leading in sustainability, social justice, increased social mobility, & boosting UK GDP. We urge all political parties to incorporate these recommendations into their post-election strategies. This is a pivotal moment to ensure a sustainable, inclusive, and prosperous future for the UK fashion industry. By highlighting these key findings & recommendations, you can help drive the necessary changes that will benefit the entire fashion sector and beyond. Read here: https://lnkd.in/ePQgxNGK

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PIT STOP at Leuphana University in Lüneburg / Germany   On their Sustainability Day at the Center of University Sport, runamics GmbH was visiting for a short lecture:   Is sustainable sportswear a utopia?   We played myth-busters 👻   What myths are circulating in the sports/textile industry?   Myth 1: Plant-based materials can replace fossil-based materials. 👻 that wouldn't work at all, where to go with all the monocultures?   Myth 2: Bottle to shirt is circular economy. 👻 wrong, it's a dead end. Bottle --> T-Shirt --> Landfill. The textile industry has successfully distracted all of us. While producing millions of tons of textile waste every year, they took just an “easier to handle” waste and washed their hands clean. Scandal? You decide.   Myth 3: Biobased = biodegradable. 👻 these are 2 different things   Myth 4: Swimsuits only work for one competition, running shoes only for 400 km, etc. 👻 if you are a professional athlete these figures may make sense, for 99.8% of us hobby athletes they don´t   Myth 5: Vegan sportswear is sustainable 👻 Indeed, plastic is vegan. But plastic kills animals, it doesn't safe them.   Myth 6: Fiber to fiber recycling is not there yet 👻 hell yes, it is. The current development speed is incredible.   Any myth missing? Did we get something wrong? David Storek Anton Klischewski Victor Louis Büchner Tim Janßen Bettina Faust Anne Toppius Katharina Hoffmann Laurent Petit Jochen Schmidt Anna Felicitas Ruechardt Alice Beyer Schuch Pascal (A.H.) Betten Marian von Rappard 🧩

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New year, three new roles! I’m extremely excited to share that I joined the executive team at private investment company, Pitzner, earlier this month as Executive Director, Investments & Advisory. After selling Klarlund fine jewellery and watches to first Swiss Bucherer AG and then ROLEX last year, Pitzner is now in the market with substantial funds to make new investments. Being owned by the commercial foundation, Axel Pitzner Fonden, our focus is long-term and with a strong emphasis on sustainability. Our core DNA is retail, luxury, and lifestyle and we’re looking for majority investments in mature and healthy businesses, minority investments in growth ventures, and - as something new - for co-investments with international and Scandinavian partners similar to us. I'm immensely excited to kick-off our investment strategy work together with the board and Morten, to get to know our existing portfolio, and not least to start scouting for attractive investment opportunities in the market! 🔥 Thank you, Morten Pitzner, for this incredible opportunity 🙏 Also, I’m honoured and humbled to share my two advisory board roles at KINRADEN and all.u.me - two female founded and female run businesses that I truly admire. I started my work with both businesses last year, and I’m excited to see them evolve into advisory board roles. KINRADEN is founded by Sarah, former partner at Henning Larsen Architects, and I see it as just the forward-thinking jewellery player that the global industry has been missing. all.u.me is a jewellery, tech, and social impact start-up on a mission to address global harassment and I could imagine no one better to do that job than entrepreneur and founder, Dorte. Finally, an update on Finematter, where I’ve transitioned into a co-owner role. I wish the team all the best of luck 💎 A HUGE thanks to all the ones that advised, mentored, helped, endorsed or cheered along to make it to here in my career – you all know who you are! An even bigger thanks to my partner, Andreas, for splitting the parental leave equally with me, allowing me to pursue my dreams as much as his. And finally, thank you to Finans, Frederikke Træholt, Christian Lykking and the dream team of Andreas, Andrea & Mia at Ulveman & Børsting for this opportunity and a great piece. I’m excited for 2024 and everything that lies ahead! ❤️

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The process of making sneakers melds creativity with technical skill, offering enthusiasts a way to express personal style while developing a practical and increasingly popular form of footwear. The journey to creating a pair of sneakers begins with understanding the fundamental components: the upper, which forms the body of the shoe; the insole for interior foot support; and the sole, which provides the structure, grip, and durability. Each element requires careful selection of materials and precision in crafting to ensure comfort, function, and aesthetics align.    https://lnkd.in/gqBx6XX7

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The process of making sneakers melds creativity with technical skill, offering enthusiasts a way to express personal style while developing a practical and increasingly popular form of footwear. The journey to creating a pair of sneakers begins with understanding the fundamental components: the upper, which forms the body of the shoe; the insole for interior foot support; and the sole, which provides the structure, grip, and durability. Each element requires careful selection of materials and precision in crafting to ensure comfort, function, and aesthetics align. https://lnkd.in/gqBx6XX7

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Which luxury watch brand is topping auction sales in the 1st 4 months of 2024? One thing is very clear: Patek Philippe is the king of all luxury watches when it comes to resale market sales. 🏆 It stands alone at the summit. Always has. No one comes close. Not even ROLEX. Even the average price of a Patek is generally 5x that of Rolex. New or 2nd hand. Many thanks to Giovanni Prigigallo at EveryWatch, the world's leading database of watch prices back to 1989, tracking >500,000 references across >250 auction houses and 150 online marketplaces + dealers, for the comprehensive data. 📌 The top 10 brands represent 78% of the total sales of US$139 million 📌 The top 2 - Patek & Rolex - are 53% of total sales YTD. Ranking for sales in 1st 4 months (Jan-Apr) of 2024 (USD): 1️⃣ Patek Philippe $38.9m 2️⃣ ROLEX $35.6m 3️⃣ Audemars Piguet $8.8m 4️⃣ Cartier $8.1m 5️⃣ F.P.Journe - Invenit et Fecit $3.5m 6️⃣ Vacheron Constantin $3.4m 7️⃣ OMEGA SA $2.8m 8️⃣ Richard Mille $2.2m 9️⃣ A. Lange & Söhne $2.2m 🔟 Jaeger-LeCoultre $2.1m The big auctions start in May and June so average and median prices will rise significantly, especially as big pieces are showcased from the Holy Trinity of Patek, AP and VC. Patek has started the May month in chart topping fashion at Watches and Wonder in Geneva with the ref 6310A achieving an astonishing price of US$17.3 million, more than 3x its estimate! What a watch too - I'm in ❤️! (pic in comments) For average prices per watch, check out the graphic below 👇

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How do you encourage fans to shop more sustainably while still promoting your brand sponsors new kit? Quiet influence. England recently released a video to announce their line up for the Euros, 18 seconds into the video they show a fan shopping for England shirts in a vintage shop. Throughout the video they also show past seasons shirts, intermixed with this years strip, and shirts and tees that look worn, creased and anything but new. But why is this important…? 1. Showcasing vintage as the first destination to buy a shirt is pretty groundbreaking given the main goal of brands and clubs is to sell more new garments. This is a direct conflict of interest for a linear business model- that’s a brave move. 2. It shows fans it’s ok to wear an old shirt. It encourages fans to consider wearing a shirt they already have or buying preloved/pre owned, extending the life of existing garments. Essentially circular business models in action. 3. It moves away from the box fresh pristine idea of promoting new clothing. It shows garments that have had a life and are part of someone’s life, encouraging fans to keep, wear and love the shirts they already own. Building emotional durability- a key asset for the circular economy. The interesting thing is that England didn’t need to do this and 95% of fans won’t even consciously notice, but that’s why it’s clever. Circularity requires a change in mindset in how we consume. Often the communication around sustainability can come over as hypocritical when clubs and brands actively speak out, but by including this footage in the video it subtly and almost subconsciously encourages behaviour change, having a quiet influence that can have a massive impact. #football #euros #circularity

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paper republic is about to make its biggest investment ever. 👇 👉 Why? We are on our way to produce and sell 500.000 notebooks and leather journals per year. Absolutely all leather products are made in our workshop in Vienna. What started as a small one-man show (i.e. me cutting leather pieces with a stanley knive) is now a team of 40+ people working in the heart of Vienna. We are showing that it is possible to grow manufacturing capabilities in the heart of every European city. As we continue to grow at fast pace, we need to have top-notch equipment that make it possible to produce ourselves the best leather journals and accessories. And enough space to work. 👉What will the machine do? The new automatic cutting machine will make it possible to be: - faster (about 3 to 4 times more than the current manual cutting); - more efficient (we will cut more leather out of every hide); - more effective (the quality of the cutting will increase); - more sustainable (less energy consumption); - more flexible (fully digital cutting). The workers from the leather team will be able to focus on high-value tasks, like sewing, customization and quality control. As a fact, the team will continue to grow. 👉How do we handle this investment? I am not used to big investment projects. paper republic grew gradually. This is an investment for 10-20 years, which sounds crazy for a (still) young company as paper republic. Most of the work has been so far to : - make a detailed liquidity and investment plan - have long discussion with the bank and and city of Vienna - make a detailed assessment of each supplier - get cross-functional in-house teams involved in the decision process. Beyond price and details, together we the manufacturing team, we've be meeting with all potential suppliers. This journey has taken us to all over Europe, from Austria and Germany to Switzerland and Italy. In the end, it is not only about TECHNOLOGY but also TRUST. Final decision will be next month!

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I recall when the trend started, there was plenty of naysaying in the watch industry and especially the press, as well as from legacy independent retailers that had supported these brands well, some for generations. But as Thomas Baillod noted in his Watch Trade Academy, just as the rivers inevitably run to the sea, so shall the margin return to the brand. But disintermediation is another 3-beer conversation! #BA111OD #WTA #brandboutiques #watchdistribution #disintermediation

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⏰ The clock is ticking for the whole Swiss watch industry, but not equally for all brands. The premiumisation and the polarisation are two long-term trends which are reshaping the landscape of the whole luxury industry and not only for watches. What characterises the evolution of our industry though are the falling volumes, which were more or less halved since the year 2000. “We have lost half of the volume of the Swiss watch industry in only 20 years,” said Oliver Müller, founder of the Swiss consultancy LuxeConsult and one of the Morgan Stanley report’s authors. “Those volumes are gone forever.” "In March, Morgan Stanley released a report that estimated Rolex and the Swatch Group — which owns Omega, Longines and Tissot, among others — accounted for around 80 percent* of Swiss watch exports by volume." ((In fact *73% or 11,6mn units sold by the Swatch Group)) Alongside the "überbrands" such as Patek Philippe, ROLEX, Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille there will be very few players capable of upping the game. Some opportunities are opening up for niche players, such as H. Moser & Cie. , F.P.Journe - Invenit et Fecit or MB&F and meaningful brands with innovative concepts. But the market will revert to a "natural selection" to eliminate the brands without a mission, the copycats and the free riders of this industry. Müller, however, said there would be casualties. “The worries are not for the verticalised groups and brands such as Swatch Group, Richemont and Rolex, but for literally all the others,” he said. “In the long run, the groups will largely overperform the market and polarise it. An industry without volumes can’t provide innovation and sustainable production prices.” Thank you Robin Swithinbank for quoting me in the article published today in The Business of Fashion ! #watches #swissmade #montres #horlogerie #luxe

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