I’ve been cooking Sameen Rushdie’s Panchphoran Aloo — as these are properly called — ever since her wonderful book, Indian Cookery, was first published in 1988 and, indeed, I wrote about them in my first book, How to Eat, published 10 years after. In other words, they’re a constant in my life, and once you make them, you will see why. I’m afraid I mostly cook them not in the context of an actual Indian meal, but to accompany fried eggs for brunch at weekends, or to give pep to leftovers in…