Me and this dish go back a long way. To the pre-shaving days of being an under-age drinker down the Wagon and Horses in Saffron Walden with a fake ID and all my village mates. Only once in a while of course. But seriously, without trying to sound like a lagered-up geezer, I think everyone’s experienced the need for food around midnight, whether the binge was small or large, otherwise why would kebab shops be so popular in Britain? Anyway, I always used to have three or four friends back to…