More often than not, the best things in Saigon take place on the sidewalk. Whether moonlighting as a parking lot or a restaurant, a barbershop or a spa, the lề đường is a rich eco system of all things Vietnam. One afternoon, as I trundled down Truong Dinh alongside Saigon's many motorbikes, a row of beautifully-framed calligraphy paintings caught my eye. Red, black and white, their eloquent letters stopped me in my tracks. Here, amid the busy and dust-filled Saigon traffic, was a corner of…
