IN SEASON from mid-April to late October, I find the striped bass—equally at ease in rivers and in the ocean—to be the most fascinating, delicious fish of the East Coast. Pesto, or pistou, is usually made with basil, but here we’ve used the refreshing, vibrant taste of cilantro to match the lemony croquettes, our own take on the classic arancini. At the bottom of the plate, a cilantro tapioca nage surrounds the artichoke and fava bean medley.