While I was off in the forest following jaguar and puma tracks, our boat came across a caiman that was entertaining several guests. In addition to this butterfly on its snout, it had a turtle sitting on its back, and a small basilisk was sitting on top of the turtle (the "brilliant, observant blogger with a penchant for danger and a flair for words" in our boat called it a "rainforest turducken" ...and yes, she made me write that). Unfortunately, by the time I got back in and we passed by…