The traditional men’s wear fabric has been nipped and tucked to new feminine proportions.
Model: Lameka Fox at IMG Paris. Hair by Tomohiro Ohashi at Management+Artists using Bumble and Bumble. Makeup by Aude Gill at Studio 57. Manicure by Laura Forget at Artlist Paris. Production by White Dot Paris
The romantic spirit of early Joni Mitchell — peasant dresses, poet blouses and textured coats — is toughened up when paired with a simple Chelsea boot.
Model: Olympia Campbell at Viva London. Hair by Alex Valverde. Makeup by Sigrid Volders for Chanel. Production by Initials LA. Casting by Arianna Pradarelli. Photographer’s assistant: Jan Vandevyver. Stylist’s assistants: Kelly Harris and Yannick Abrath
These clothes couldn’t look any more modern — dramatic silhouettes, dark colors, floral appliqués — yet they are created in the most traditional manner. Is custom-made fashion a treasure or a relic?
Haute Couture is the great anachronism of 21st-century fashion. While the rest of the industry speeds up, live streams and sells online, couture plods along slowly, methodically, stuck in its ways. Indeed, speed — or
the lack thereof — is its defining characteristic. It is about clothes that take days to assemble, months to embroider, all adding up to thousands of hours of concentrated labor. In essence, it’s old-fashioned.
That’s not just part of its charm: It is its very reason for existence.
The name literally translates as high sewing or needlework, and the craft was established by Charles Frederick Worth to cater to the court of Empress Eugénie
in the 19th century. To support it, a specialized industry of embroiderers, milliners, glove and button makers and plumassiers (working with feathers, as that evocative French appellation suggests) developed in Paris.
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Not the wispy embellishment of days past, but a full-on takeover of a garment by its trim. At last, the ornamental becomes essential.
Model: Lottie Hayes at Select Model Management. Hair by Kei Terada at Julian Watson Agency. Makeup by Hiromi Ueda Using DiorSkin at Julian Watson Agency. Manicure by Jenni Draper at Premier Hair and Makeup. Set Design by Theo Politowicz at The Magnet Agency. On-set production by Sylvia Farago Ltd. Casting by Arianna Pradarelli. Photographer’s assistants: Chris Miller, Sam Wilson. Digital: Victoria Zschommler. Stylist’s assistants: Lydia Simpson, Elle Britt. Makeup assistant: Kamila Forini. Hair assistant: Takuya Uchiyama
Whether slim-cut or slightly slouchy, the new relaxed suiting features a construction that lets you cut loose, anywhere, anytime.
Models: Marc-Andre Turgeon at Supa Model Management, Matthew Davidson at Fusion Models. Hair by Shin Arima using Redken for Frank Reps. Makeup by Asami Taguchi using MAC Cosmetics for Frank Reps. Manicure by Yuko Tsuchihashi for Dior Vernis at Susan Price NYC. Tailoring by Joel Gomez. Casting by Arianna Pradarelli. Photographer’s assistants: Gaspar Dietrich, Morgan Ashcom, Chris Callaway. Stylist’s assistant: Kelly Harris. Shot on location at Skylight Modern
Vivid botanical prints lose their ladylike sweetness when paired with utilitarian staples.
Behind-the-Scenes Video
In the office and on set at the photo shoot, T’s senior fashion editor Jason Rider discusses the inspiration for this fashion story, featured in the Feb. 15 spring fashion issue.
Video: Jordan Fuller/Supercasual
Model: Tami Williams at Elite New York. Hair by Tomi Kono at Julian Watson Agency using Bumble and Bumble. Makeup by Junko Kioka at Joe Management using Chanel. Manicure by Yuko Tsuchihashi for Dior Vernis. Stylist’s assistants: Kelly Harris, Rayner Reyes.
Virginal white lace paired with leather and suede evokes the sexy decadence of Patti Smith’s punk-rock days.
Model: Annely Bouma at DNA Model Management. Hair by Tomi Kono using Bumble and Bumble at Julian Watson Agency. Makeup by Asami Taguchi using MAC Cosmetics at Frank Reps. Manicure by Yuko Tsuchihashi using Dior Vernis at Susan Price NYC. Casting by Arianna Pradarelli. Photographer’s assistants: Gaspar Dietrich, Morgan Ashcom, Chris Callaway. Stylist’s assistant: Kelly Harris. Hair assistant: Masashi Kawakami
Traditional codes of formal attire suddenly feel right, from ruffle-front shirts and high-waisted pants to velvet suits and tuxedo stripes.
Model: Marc André Turgeon at Supa Model Management. Hair by Shin Arima using Redken for Frank Reps. Makeup by Asami Taguchi using Nars Cosmetics for Frank Reps. Casting by Arianna Pradarelli. Tailoring by Leroy Gough. Photo assistants: Gaspar Dietrich and Morgan Ashcom. Stylist’s assistants: Kelly Harris and Rayner Reyes
There’s a festive elegance to clothes that sparkle in the light but don’t outshine their wearer.
Model: Lucy Evans at Select. Hair by Terry Saxon at Jed Root. Makeup by Lili Choi using Laura Mercier at Artlist. Manicure by Brenda Abrial at Jed Root. On-set producer: Jamila Wahid at Brachfeld. Photographer’s assistant: Sascha Heintze. Stylist’s Assistant: Laëtitia Leporcq
A great-looking trench makes all the sartorial difference.
Model: Sabina Lobava at Elite New York City. Hair by Shin Arima using Redken for Frank Reps. Makeup by Serge Hodonou using M.A.C. Cosmetics for Frank Reps. Manicure by Yuko Tsuchihashi for Dior Vernis. Casting by Arianna Pradarelli. Stylist’s assistants: Kelly Harris and Rayner Reyes. Shot on location at the Invisible Dog Warehouse