Argentina’s historically welcoming immigration policy has created an alluring blend of cultural influences in its capital: French-style architecture, Italian gastronomy and the largest Jewish diaspora in South America. But political unrest and hyperinflation have made things difficult for its citizens, especially now that the economy has taken another nosedive. The dollar is king — and much in demand. In spite of, or perhaps because of, the country’s longtime monetary mismanagement, Argentina is still a relative bargain, and Buenos Aires is as enticing as ever. After a few years away, my traveling companion and I went back to reevaluate a long-recommended historic hotel and test out two others new to the Hideaway Report. In the process, I was reminded of why this elegant metropolis is one of my favorite cities in the world.

Alvear Icon Hotel

Just east of San Telmo, the man-made port of Puerto Madero became obsolete in 1907. Today, it is a revitalized district full of corporate offices, museums, luxury hotels and high-rises. Among them is one of the three Alvear Hotels in Buenos Aires, Alvear Icon Hotel & Residences, a 32-story building that holds 159 hotel accommodations and residences (with separate entrances and elevators). Opened in 2017, it has all the amenities we missed at Legado Mítico, including four restaurants, a top-floor bar and a two-story spa that boasts two dramatic pools. Most of these spaces share one thing: outstanding views of the city or the marshlands of an ecological reserve on the banks of the Río de la Plata.

Our 17th-floor Junior Suite Grand View lived up to its name, with large windows that showcased a seemingly endless panorama of the city. More businesslike than plush, the immaculate space appeared brand-new. The décor played it safe with a color scheme of ivory, tan and brown, but metallic end tables and Lucite lamps added contemporary flair. Still, the standout room was the elegant bath, faced in Carrara marble with mirrors and heavy brass fittings. Separate sinks flanked the entryway that opened to a smartly designed whirlpool tub.