As much as its dining scene may have evolved in recent years (and for the better), Paris wouldn't really be Paris without its old school establishments. And perhaps none have remained as steadfastly and stubbornly old school as Chez l'Ami Louis, the 3rd Arrondissement institution that has held court on Rue du Vertbois for nearly a century. It's still impossible to get a table. It's still overpriced. There is still no website. The waiters are still mean. But the food is still the same (and the portions still huge), which is precisely why the bistro has long been a magnet for foodies, celebrities, and heads of state.
"I once ate next to Jacques Chirac," Jay McInerney recently told T&C. "The food is pretty great, and bounteous; they have the fattest Bresse chickens and the fattest checks in town."
And now, in a surprising twist, it seems l'Ami Louis isn't so resistant to change after all. LVMH has acquired the bistro, adding to its growing hospitality division, which includes the Belmond and Cheval Blanc brands. In a statement, the conglomerate vowed to "work alongside the existing teams to preserve the unique character and family identity of the restaurant and continue to support its French savoir-faire and expertise."
That the Arnaults have trained their eye on such a small and independent establishment—albeit one with a larger-than-life reputation—might hint at greater plans to build a culinary empire as impressive as their collection of fashion, watches, jewelry, and wine and spirits maisons. Another possible hint: in 2019, LVMH scion Antoine Arnault invested in the revival of Lapérouse, the legendary 18th-century boîte in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The project was the brainchild of restaurateur extraordinaire Benjamin Patou, who has a certain talent for bringing iconic institutions back to life—and infusing them with a heavy dose of Insta-worthy glamour. Arnault and Patou's partnership then spawned additional Café Lapérouse spinoffs, one in Place de la Concorde in Paris, the other at the new Raffles in London. Could this all be a clue to the future of l'Ami Louis? We shall see.
Leena Kim is an editor at Town & Country, where she covers travel, jewelry, education, weddings, and culture.
