British high society wintered in Ajaccio in the 19th century, making the most of a year-round, blue-sky climate that compares favourably with the Côte d’Azur. Before then, the Corsican capital was Napoleon’s town; the Continent-shaping French leader was born here and his imprint remains clear with museums, hotels and shops living off his name, and no shortage of larger-than-life statues.
A mix of influences has shaped Ajaccio, since Corsica was caught in a centuries-long tug-of-war between France and Italy. That history appears in its architecture, but is best seen in its cuisine, with just-caught seafood sitting alongside island charcuterie and pizzas to make a Neapolitan blush.
But it’s not a city gazing back on its past. Today the clear Corsican air and sun-sparkled sea still prove a soothing balm. Hiking, biking, surfing and skiing are all possible within an hour of a city centre filled with boutique hotels fit for an exiled ruler and enough fine dining options to feed an army.
48 hours in Ajaccio – at a glance
Day 1
• Morning: Capo di Feno
• Lunch: Café Gilda
• Afternoon: Musée Fesch
• Drink at: Brasserie du Diamant
• Evening: NapoRama
• Dinner: Le Roi de Rome
Day 2
• Morning: Maison Bonaparte
• Lunch: Le Palm Beach
• Afternoon: Pointe de la Parata
• Drink at: L’Atelier Vagner
• Evening: Place d’Austerlitz
• Dinner: L’Ardoise
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What to do
● Capo di Feno beach has a gentle swell that’s perfect for the surfing novice, so grab a board, zip up a wetsuit and join a small group session with Capo Surf Club (April to October). Kayak, bodyboard and SUP rentals are also available (lessons from £21; caposurfclub.com).
● Lining the walls at Musée Fesch are some of the 17,000 works collected by Cardinal Joseph Fesch (Napoleon’s uncle, dynasty fans). It’s by far the best collection in Corsica, with pieces by Italian Renaissance masters such as Botticelli, Titian and Veronese (£7; musee-fesch.com).
● NapoRama displays lovingly constructed Playmobil sets of key moments from Napoleon’s life. A passionate (French-speaking) guide will talk you through the displays. All ages will enjoy the scenes, carefully selected to focus on the military achievements of Ajaccio’s favourite son: Toulon, Cairo, Austerlitz. “Où est Waterloo?” (£4; napo-rama.com).
● Step back into the 1700s with a visit to Maison Bonaparte, the house of Napoleon’s birth. The property, which entertained diplomats and aristocrats after the family rose to prominence, retains original decor and furniture supplemented with paintings and memorabilia from the emperor’s life (£6; musees-nationaux-malmaison.fr).
● Continue west to the popular Pointe de la Parata. Follow walking trails through the fragrant Corsican scrub and climb the 156 steps to the highest point. Here the 16th-century Genoese brick watchtower stands tall, with views of the nearby Îles Sanguinaires (free; grandsitesanguinaires-parata.com).
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● Bid Bonaparte farewell at the Place d’Austerlitz with an amble among the olive trees and pines where he played as a boy. Here stands his grandest monument: an imposing bronze statue on a pyramid of granite. Climb to the summit to enjoy his immortal view of the city as Ajacciens play pétanque in the square below (free; ajaccio-tourisme.com).
Where to eat
Café Gilda
Having worked up an appetite, reward yourself with a treat at Café Gilda. Every dish is a tempter at this bright and airy café with an earthy, olive-colour palate, but you can’t beat the blissfully light tuna with pistachios and roasted vegetables (mains from £15; gilda-ajaccio.com).
Le Roi de Rome
While this place is great for an alfresco drink at a barrel table, head inside for traditional Corsican specialities. Low ceilings and exposed brickwork set the mood, an extensive wine list adds to it, the charcuterie platter tops it off (mains from £15; facebook.com/RoideRomeajaccio).
Brasserie du Diamant
Get here early for the best people-watching spots out front, though the buzzing main bar and quieter nooks out back work just as well for an early evening drink. Ask the barman to mix you a Capo Spritz, the citrus-flavoured Corsican favourite (cocktails from £8; brasseriediamant.com).
Le Palm Beach
Rent an ebike and head out on the coast road to Le Palm Beach (it takes about 20 minutes), where outdoor decking above the water gives the place a relaxing California vibe. The steaming pot of moules marinière is a highlight, helped down with a cool local rosé as the tide rolls below (mains from £15; palm-beach.fr).
L’Atelier Vagner
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Wine’s a big deal in Ajaccio with a lavish festival each January celebrating St Vincent, patron saint of winemakers, and the region’s AOC status vineyards. Stop for a glass of medium-bodied red at this breezy restaurant bar overlooking the sea (wines from £4 a glass; ateliervagner-ajaccio.fr).
L’Ardoise
This favourite of Corsican residents, near where the fishing boats dock, prides itself on local produce. Start with the rich fish soup (the ingredients are caught by the chef’s husband) and follow up with the sensational truffle-brushed ravioli filled with Corsican ewe’s milk cheese (mains from £15; lardoiseajaccio.fr).
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Where to stay
Résidence Mademoiselle Joséphine
Bolt hole near the best bars
Off a narrow side street near the main nightspots, these simple but smart apartments allow you to settle right into the thick of the action. There’s a homely feel to the studio set-up, with comfy beds and cosy sitting areas. They’re an absolute steal, particularly in winter. Take the top-floor duplex and sip a morning espresso on the balcony as the nearby cathedral tower chimes the hour (one night’s self-catering from £39; mademoiselle-josephine.com).
Hotel Napoleon
For the ultimate Boney fix
This mid-range option, just off the city’s main thoroughfare (Cours Napoleon), really plays on having the best name in town. A motif-heavy lobby bursts with autumnal colours, with silhouetted headshot prints of Napoleon and his family, and bold cushions displaying strong statements: “Victoire”, “Révolution”, “Incroyable”. Rooms follow the same pattern. The £12 breakfast buffet sets you up brilliantly for a day’s marching (room-only doubles from £76; hotel-napoleon-ajaccio.fr).
Hotel San Carlu Citadelle
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Gilded luxury and the best views in town
The city’s high-roller wows you with a statement lobby (gold palm trees and a gold lift) that leads to luxurious rooms and suites that are all about the chic, modern design. Rooms look out across the Gulf of Ajaccio, but for even better views head to the top-floor bar and, cocktail in hand, gaze out over the city’s terracotta rooftops and 16th-century citadel (room-only doubles from £92; hotelsancarlu.com).
Getting there
There are no direct flights from the UK, but Ajaccio can easily be reached by plane from Paris or Nice. Or fly or take the train to Toulon, Nice, Marseilles or Genoa and take the ferry. Napoleon Bonaparte airport is three miles from the centre, served by buses (£7) and taxis (from £22).
Getting around
Ajaccio is compact enough to be explored on foot, but renting an ebike is a fun way to get to the sites beyond the city centre (£32 per day; corsicaelectricbike.com).
Dom Tulett was a guest of Ajaccio Tourism (ajaccio-tourisme.com)
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