At the meeting point of two fast-flowing rivers — the Glaslyn and the Colwyn — Beddgelert is a pretty village built from local stone and surrounded by inviting peaks. Moel Hebog, a great hulk of a hill, stands guard to the west; the Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) range directly north; and Cnicht (the Welsh Matterhorn) lies to the east.
Legend has it the village was named after Gelert, the faithful but doomed hound of Welsh folklore. But the site of Gelert’s grave was, in fact, the creation of an 18th-century pub landlord keen to attract more visitors.
From the picturesque bridge in the centre of the village we followed the river path, emerging onto a quiet lane edged by moss-clad trees and old stone walls. The landscape opened out as we walked, revealing exhilarating views ahead to the elegant peak of Moel Siabod, the highest of the Moelwynion range. Further on we passed Sygun Copper Mine, where copper has been extracted from 500-million-year-old rocks since the Bronze Age, excavations forming a gradually deepening network of tunnels and caves.
At the lane’s end, the Glaslyn flows into Llyn Dinas, filling the small valley below the wooded hillside of Dinas Emrys. Pausing, we looked out across the pewter surface of the lake, trying to spot Carreg yr Eryr — the stone of the eagle — a 12th-century marker of the meeting point between the three cantrefs (or medieval Welsh land divisions) of Aberconwy, Ardudwy and Arfon. An eagle is said to have perched here, awaiting unrest between the cantrefs, while legend has it that a red dragon lies beneath the water.
We climbed out of the valley on a steep zigzag path, grateful to reach the top of Cwm Bychan, an atmospheric place of former mineworks undergoing reclamation by the wild. A series of pylons still strides down the valley, the remains of a 1920s aerial ropeway to transport copper ore. The rare heathland here, only found in western coastal areas of Europe, provides excellent habitat for grayling butterflies and birds including wheatear and whinchat.
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From Nantmor, at the foot of Cwm Bychan, we joined the Fishermen’s Path, hewn into the rocky side of the Aberglaslyn Gorge. It’s an adventurous undertaking, and probably best avoided in wet weather, but on a dry day, traversing above the thundering rapids and serene turquoise pools of the Glaslyn made for a truly exhilarating and fitting finale to the walk.
Directions
How hard is it? 5¾ miles; moderate/challenging; country lanes, mountain and river paths
Start Beddgelert village bridge, LL55 4YB (OS ref SH589481)
Getting there Bus S4 (Porthmadog-Pen y Pass); road: A498 from Porthmadog.
Walk From the bridge follow Stryd Smith (road) along the southern side of river. Cross footbridge (FB) and bear left on footpath (FP), left of houses to gate onto minor road. Turn right, follow road past campsite and Sygun copper mine to FP on right, shortly before road bridge (604489). Turn right, follow FP through gate, continue to Llyn Dinas. Bear right at junction (612492), away from lakeside. Follow stony FP uphill onto mountainside. Continue on path following valley right and uphill to path junction and signpost (606482). Turn left, signed Aberglaslyn. Follow FP to next path junction and ladder stile (606481). Cross and follow FP down the valley, passing old mine machinery and eventually walking through woodland to reach National Trust Nantmor car park (597462). Turn right, follow FP uphill through woodland, then down to river path at Aberglaslyn Pass. Turn right, follow rocky path upstream with care, especially when wet. Continue to level crossing (591473). Cross railway, then left over FB. Turn right, follow path along the bank of the Glaslyn back to Beddgelert. Turn left at Stryd Smith to return to the bridge.
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Lunch Bistro Hebog, Beddgelert (01766 890400)
Accommodation National Trust Craflwyn holiday cottages and campsite (nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays)
More information Beddgelert information centre (01766 890615)
