Where Indagare Members are Heading this Summer, 2024

The first summer home built on the shores of Lake Como, Villa d’Este is now one of the most indulgent waterfront resorts in all of Italy—and Europe.

Spanning a panorama of heathered foothills on the fringes of the Highlands, Gleneagles, formerly a distinguished railroad property serviced by its own dedicated station, is a gracious country resort in the tradition of iconic leisure hotels like the Greenbrier. It is a place of such plenitude and ease, and a place so prolific in recreational possibilities, that it speaks even to those who would otherwise forego grandeur in favor of subtlety or mystery. While properties of similar magnitude can sometimes feel bland and cavernous, Gleneagles is rich in substance – and graced with a distinctly Scottish warmth.

There are 232 rooms at the resort, with rooms in the main house decorated in tasteful shades of gray with elegant, fresh touches and artwork. Braid House is an extension of the Main House with 59 rooms. The rooms are more contemporary, but have distinctly Scottish touches and fantastic views over the property.

Gleneagles is perhaps best known as a golf destination, and with good reason; it is home to the PGA National Academy for Scotland and three championship courses, among them the PGA Centenary Course, whose designer Jack Nicklaus called it "the finest parcel of land in the world I have ever been given to work with." The resort's reputation as a golfer’s mecca is indeed richly deserved, but it is not the whole story; part of what is so remarkable about the host of the 2014 Ryder Cup is how brilliantly it manages to entertain, pamper and regale the legions of guests who find their way to Gleneagles on the coattails of a golf-obsessed sibling or spouse.

The menu of aristocratic country pursuits practiced at Gleneagles is as encyclopedic as it is sophisticated. The British School of Falconry has been based here since the early '90s (it is recommended to pre-book falconry to ensure availability), and the resort's Gundog School was the first of its kind in the world. Guests can spend a day stalking red deer through wooded glens or fishing rainbow trout in the company of a local ghillie. The fabulous equestrian program is yet another highlight, with its state-of-the-art indoor ring and nuanced curriculum featuring dressage, polo and show jumping in addition to exhilarating scenic trail rides. A team of miniature ponies with names like Arthur and Blueberry Muffin means even the smallest riders will be matched with a worthy steed. Indeed virtually any activity offered for adults has been adapted for children, who can learn to shoot, fish or even drive. Guests as young as six years old can get behind the wheel of specially commissioned mini Land Rovers to brave the resort's junior off-road driving course. The culture throughout Gleneagles' various "schools" is easygoing and warm and exceedingly hospitable to beginners, but the quality of the facilities and the caliber of instruction have also made it a destination worthy of serious sportsmen.

Gleneagles is also a place where spoiled city-dwellers can dip a toe into bucolic pleasures without having to forfeit urban luxuries. The spa is liberally staffed with acupuncturists, nutritionists and personal trainers and boasts 30 treatment rooms. There is a Shu Uemura salon and a nail bar offering a more extensive array of manicure and pedicure services than can often be found on the most cosmopolitan city blocks. Unsurprisingly, the resort's collection of eateries rivals its activities catalogue; what is surprising is that a resort like Gleneagles would be a gastronomic destination in its own right. But indeed, passionate epicures make their way to Perthshire for the sole purpose of dining at Andrew Fairlie, having booked their tables months in advance. When Gleneagles hosted the G8 Summit in 2005, Fairlie, a local culinary prodigy, cooked for a formidable roster of world leaders including Her Majesty the Queen. His restaurant, tucked inconspicuously into an interior alcove of the resort’s main building, is still Scotland's only two Michelin-starred outfit. In addition to Andrew Fairlie, the resort has many informal dining options, including the golf clubhouse for bites between tee times, The Strathearn for all-day dining, and Deseo for Mediterranean tapas.

For all its hundreds of pristine acres, Gleneagles does manage to be a bustling place at certain times of the year. Resort pool and fitness memberships are popular with locals, and conferences are scheduled year-round. Large groups are often accommodated in an extension wing called Braid House, comprising a long, linear corridor of identical suites. The most charming (and most serene) rooms at Gleneagles are located on the fourth floor of the patrician main building, where handsome two-bedroom family suites offer sweeping views of the Perthshire countryside.

Carved into the rocky coastline of Tuscany’s Monte Argentario peninsula, Il Pellicano hotel showcases sea views with old-world pomp.

Indagare's exclusive review of NIHI Sumba, a tropical resort that's become one of the world's most famous getaways for barefoot luxury.

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An escape 95 miles north of Tokyo that effortlessly blends gorgeous scenery, design and tradition, creating a restorative, immersive retreat.

A prison island in the 18th century, Tjuvholmen was infamously known as “Thief Island” until its gentrification in the 2000s. Now a burgeoning neighborhood filled with galleries and boutiques, Tjuvholmen was solidified as one of Oslo’s most exciting urban spaces when The Thief hotel opened in 2013. Overlooking the fjords, the cutting-edge hotel is the top choice for visitors interested in architecture and looking to stay in one of Scandinavia’s most innovative design districts.

Set just a block from the Astrup Fearnley Museum (guests of The Thief receive free entry), the 118-room hotel resides within a Cubist-style curved building, and contains an impeccable art collection, which was curated by the former director of the National Museum. Pieces by Andy Warhol, Richard Prince and Antony Gormley are hung casually throughout public spaces and the dining outlets, and upon-request art tours are offered for those who wish to learn more about the hotel’s collection. The hotel crowd is undeniably glamorous, and past guests have included Rihanna, Bill Gates and Steven Tyler.

Accommodations are plush and moody, with a deep, mostly grey color palette, shag rugs, loads of pillows on each room’s king bed and bold original art lining the walls. Woolen blankets and extra large towels enhance the cozy atmosphere, but the rooms are undeniably modern thanks to the futuristic furnishings and high-tech features including heated floors and motion-sensor lights in the bathrooms. The ten suites are individually appointed, and offer a range of styles from demure to over-the-top. The Eske- and Terence Conran–designed Brit Suite has a playful 1960s-inspired style with soft white light fixtures and cobalt blue furniture, while the Apparatjik Suite (designed by the eponymous music group) is as wild as it gets, with disco balls hanging from the ceiling and the option to project the image of one of the band members on the bed so guests can “sleep with the stars.” Each room features a private balcony with a great view – whether you are facing the Oslo Fjord or neighboring buildings, the charm of Tjuvholmen is undeniable.

Onsite amenities include the Foodbar for all-day Scandinavian fare and two bars—one on the rooftop and offering fabulous views (though somewhat lackluster food), the other next to the restaurant serving craft cocktails. (In the warmer months, the restaurant relocates to the indoor/outdoor space on the rooftop, overlooking the fjord.) The spa and gym are some of the best in the city; the gym is open 24 hours with several cardio machines and a small weight training room. The hotel also has three Riva boats for guests.

This week on Passport to Everywhere, Melissa sits down with world-renowned chef Massimo Bottura at Casa Maria Luigia, the intimate 12-bedroom country house he and his wife run in his hometown of Modena, Italy. He shares how he combined his favorite things – art, music, and, of course, great food – to transform this once-overgrown property into a home away from home for guests. In this episode Massimo will reveal his first food memories, he’ll spill the details of his school days with Marco Bizzarri, the CEO of Gucci, and you’ll learn the sources of inspiration for his renowned restaurants, which serve classic Italian dishes with a modern twist and rebellious spirit. These include his landmark three-Michelin star restaurant Osteria Francescana in Modena (voted the number one restaurant in the world in 2016 and 2018), and the international Gucci Osteria collection in Beverly Hills, Tokyo, and Seoul. Massimo’s culinary genius and passion for hospitality extends far beyond internationally acclaimed restaurants and hotels. Learn how he parlays his passion for food to give back through his non-profits, Food for Soul and Tortellante. 

Don’t miss: Massimo shares what you can do to mitigate food waste and his tips for the perfect visit to Modena or, as he fondly refers to it, “the land of slow food and fast cars.”

Click here to learn more about Food for Soul’s Refettorio Network, which has rapidly expanded from Italy into 9 countries – including the United States. This Winter, Refettorio Harlem on 119th street will finish its major interior renovation and open to the public! 

You can support Food for Soul's global development here and can follow their activities on Instagram @foodforsoul_it. Plus, check out some of the delicious recipes being cooked up in each Refettorio at www.cookingisanactoflove.org, including some specialties by chef Massimo and the Francesanca family.  

The Italian Renaissance–inspired estate, built in the 1920s by a cotton mogul, was among the first fanciful constructions in the now mansion-stuffed neighborhood. Rosewood’s Caroline Rose Hunt bought the property in 1979 and over the course of the next decade transformed it into one of the U.S.’s best-known and most beloved hotels.

Designed to feel like a private home—albeit a showy one; you are in Dallas, after all—the Mansion has retained such original details as smooth marble floors, carved-plaster ceilings, stained-glass windows and the lobby’s 32-foot-high marble rotunda. The 143 spacious rooms, including several luxe (some might say over-the-top) suites, contain lots of antiques, original art and plush fabrics, as well as hefty four-posters with curtains, large flower arrangements, sofas; airy Italian-marble bathrooms are stocked with Lady Primrose bath products. Subtle it is not, but many high-profile travelers consider the Mansion the quintessential Dallas property.

The somewhat removed location should not deter visitors who plan to do a lot of sightseeing in the Arts District: the hotel provides guests with complimentary car service to anywhere within a five-mile radius.