Far Beyond Dracula: Discovering A Different Magic in Transylvania

What often calls us somewhere can end up being the least important thing about it—and that was my experience with Transylvania. Obsessed with the macabre, it was the lore of vampires, fortified castles and thick forests that brought me to the Romanian countryside…only to be surprised by a completely restorative and peaceful—practically spa-like—atmosphere.

What I found: a slower way of life, a deep pride for Romania’s history and land, innovative cuisine and thoughtful hospitality.

Romania was once separated into three regions—Wallachia, Moldavia and Transylvania—with the latter encompassing Central Romania and surrounded by both the Carpathian and Apuseni Mountains. From early Celtic and Roman rule to time spent under the Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman Empires and later the Romanian communist regime, Transylvania has maintained its pastoral traditions—like farming, wine-making, folk costume and more.

Here, visitors will find some of the country’s well-preserved medieval cities and towns such as Brașov, Sibiu and Sighișoara, along with UNESCO-recognized fortified churches. Famously—and fictitiously—Transylvania was the setting for Bram Stoker’s gothic horror novel Dracula in 1897, putting the region on the map for the English-speaking world (and forever associating this small corner of Europe with bloodsuckers and magic). While Transylvania goes far beyond Dracula, there is an undeniably mystical quality about the place. But no, there’s no need to pack any garlic.

If an Aman and a mountain top farmstead had a love child, it’s Matca Transylvanian Sanctuary. On the day of my arrival, mist and rain clouded the property. Everyone on staff apologized profusely for the weather and missed opportunities at the view. Meanwhile, the weather let me enjoy the indoor pleasures of Matca: admiring the pressed-flower artwork and beehive-shaped lamps (Matca means “queen bee” in Romanian); visiting the spa and fully-equipped gym; and dining fireside on a savory cheese tart. Because the entire main house of the property has floor-to-ceiling windows, it felt as if the restaurant and bar were floating inside a cloud—or like someone forgot to download the world that day.

Waking up the next morning to sunshine, crisp air and cow bells clanging in the distance showed me the view I had been missing. Here, attentive service is not just limited to the staff, as three sweet property dogs followed me back and forth between the main building and my cottage—a welcome companionship on my solo travels. The property has a spiritual pull (like all places, both tragic and happy stories have happened here) and the staff share openly how its creation was a labor of love after an accident, a project completed for guests to find the same restorative and romantic emotions that the owner felt when viewing the land for the first time. (I found it similar to the Vortex thinking of Sedona.) Thoughtful details across the property are connected to Romanian traditions like bespoke tea blends, honey-infused products and activities like “Toaca” (the trance-inducing summoning of the monks at a nearby monastery). All invite guests to a luxurious form of idleness.

While here, it’s a must to visit the intimidating Bran Castle—less than 20 minutes from the property. The fortress has been standing guard at the border of Wallachia since the 12th century. I was told that it was originally built to have a high vantage point to make sure no one was skipping border tax…death and taxes, as they say! While Bran Castle has leaned into the “Dracula’s Castle” bit, (expect buses of crowds in the afternoon and kitschy exhibits including a Dracula simulation), the architectural feat of putting this gargantuan Gothic estate on a hilltop is something to marvel at.

About five hours from Bucharest, the small village of Criş felt far removed from my existence in Brooklyn—especially upon arrival, when I was greeted by an old man standing near a field, one hand smoking a cigarette and the other holding a scythe. It would be a particularly easy place to pass if you weren’t looking for it and I was here to stay at Bethlen Estates, a 300-year-old family-owned residence that has been restored and opened as a boutique guesthouse. Across three distinct houses, the property is intimate and private and very quiet. My light-filled room was in the Corner Barn, which came with a shared living room and traditional tiled stove, and the only thing heard for miles outside my large window was a dog barking or a horse-drawn cart pulling at the soil. The real treat here is dining in the Kitchen Barn, a restored barn from 1914, on locally-sourced ingredients and a nightly farm-to-table tasting menu with Romanian wines. (One night, I was the only guest dining on-property, and while I usually would’ve sulked at having my own chewing for company, I instead laughed the meal away with the sommelier over travel stories and interesting Romanian history.)

While the mix of traditional rural guesthouse and contemporary features creates a luxurious atmosphere, Bethlen Estates still maintains the feel of a bed and breakfast—staff pop in during meals to discuss activities for the day and everyone is hands on…if a large hotel makes you feel like a room number, this property makes you feel like family. Here the hotel shines with the offsite activities like horseback riding and horse-drawn carriage rides, picnics, hiking and hot air balloon rides. Guests should also use it as a homebase to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Sighișoara (birthplace of the legendary Vlad the Impaler, the well-preserved old town is a maze of candy-colored buildings and a spooky Clock Tower) and the nearby Saxon villages for a peek into medieval life.

Getting around Romania is not easy—the landscape, albeit beautiful, makes for longer travel days. Winding hillside roads can be blocked by a herd of cows (happened once) or slowed down by farmers’ carts and the iconic Romani Vardo wagons (happened twice). Keep watch on the drive for roadside stands to grab a fresh apple or glimpses into another life, like a Romani wedding complete with dancing and live music.

It’s best to plan stops along the way, such as a visit to Sinaia’s fairytale Peleş Castle, less than two hours outside of Bucharest. Built for King Carol I of Romania in 1873, Peleş Castle is framed by forest, streams and meadows (this would also be an obvious choice of mine for a summer estate, so I understand King Carol’s decision). The Neo-Renaissance palace has both Gothic and Saxon influence (similar to Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria) and is complete with hand-painted murals and dark timber fachwerk. The resort town of Sinaia, once an important stop on the Orient Express, has sweeping alpine views dotted with old villas and monasteries, along with historical architecture like the Sinaia Casino (modeled after the Monte Carlo Casino).

But, these long drives really encapsulate what makes a trip to Transylvania so special—slowing down, enjoying the scenery and sharing stories. Whether it was talking with my driver about life under communist rule or what specialities I should try (Sarmale, a dish that is ground pork and spices rolled in cabbage, was my favorite) to the painstaking effort it takes to blow and paint an Easter Egg, I discovered so much about the pride Romanians have for their country and their warmth… and how graciously they are willing to share both.