An Insider’s Guide to Porto with The Largo's Matilde Barroso

A three-hour drive north of Lisbon, Porto is attracting travelers seeking a rich creative scene, deep wine-producing heritage and inspiring Gothic architecture. Now, it has a seriously chic boutique hotel, too. With a focus on local immersion and under-the-radar elegance, The Largo keeps its online presence to a bare minimum; but this week, resident experience curator Matilde Carolina Barroso shares her ultimate guide to the city, including top winemakers, wine bars and art galleries, where to eat octopus rice and roasted Portuguese cod, and her favorite spot for lunch by the beach (and “a good laugh with the girls”). Get her inside take below.

How long have you lived in Porto?

MCB: I am "portuense" born and raised, although I went to a German school and then embarked on my academic studies and first professional endeavors in the UK. I returned to Porto about 15 years ago... and that has always been the plan, to bring learnings from different experiences abroad and apply this to my home country.

What inspires you about the work you are doing today?

MCB: The opportunity to create authentic experiences that enable meaningful connections between people and a place. To inspire people through something that is true and honest to a place's nature. This is often unexpected, simple and lies in the details. That is what I believe truly makes travel experiences become unforgettable. More than enjoying to travel, I am passionate about Porto, the northern region of Portugal and the variety they offer. I am also very curious and a storyteller by nature (I studied Drama). I like to learn about people, their life stories, the behind-the-scenes. By working as an experience curator for curious travelers, I get to design the map (or breadcrumbs) of the story they will unveil, in a very personalized way, so that it is meaningful for them... and hopefully unforgettable.

How has The Largo evolved since you opened the property this past fall?

MCB: The Largo is an innovation project beyond anything else. We are constantly evolving and promoting a feedback culture, which enables us to have the guest at the center of what we do at all times. Our guests are demanding, with a sharp sense of what they like and expect; they prize discretion and genuine experiences grounded to the place's culture. Human connection, belonging and community are huge parts of the hyper-personalization and de-materialization shift from product to experience, which our project is about.

What is your favorite spot on the property?

MCB: I have a particular crush on one of our Jardim Suites facing the interior courtyard, which has a beautiful oil painting by an emerging Portuguese artist, Vera Matias. It is very intimate, and I picture myself spending long journeys there, finding headspace to read, work and write completely shut away from the busy routine. The more spacious rooms facing the São Domingos square are also wonderful and luminous. Also, I can't avoid mentioning the rooftop terrace and its beautiful views over Porto and the river Douro, especially at sunset. This area of The Largo fits many situations, from a sunny poolside afternoon with cocktails to an early dinner or snack after a workout at the gym.

What is something that guests at The Largo are surprised by upon arrival?

MCB: How peaceful it feels. Guests are often surprised by the fact that our home lies amid the buzzy historical center of Porto and, suddenly, through a discreet door of a typical townhouse, one finds quiet, airy spaces. Flexibility and attentiveness are other points that have been highlighted by our guests so far.

What makes Porto special for you? Why should more travelers have the city—for a first or return visit—on their list?

MCB: Porto is a city that has a very healthy pace, where time is cherished and, at the same time, has an entrepreneurial essence to it—and a genuine pride in the local character. This has enabled a natural regeneration shift, especially in the more recent years, which has caught the eye of locals and internationals concerning the potential of our very own traditions and crafts. Porto and the northern region have a great variety, too. We have a lot of heritage and history but are also contemporary and global. It is a city and a region with a strong personality, and this is easily sensed the moment one lands. We are confident in being true to our nature still.

Are there any new projects you are working on that you are excited about?

MCB: Every guest is a new project. We curate every single journey according to the guests' travel intentions, so every time we are surprised by new challenges. This year, we will be focusing on more exclusive designs and tapping into areas that are less known or explored within the region.

Where are you traveling to next?

MCB: I am planning a family trip to Cape Town, as it is a place that encapsulates a lot of our common interests—namely nature, from the beaches to the wildlife, and the winelands. Also in the pipeline is a short trip to Málaga (in Spain) or Sardinia (in Italy).

What is your favorite place for breakfast or a coffee?

This is a meal I rarely take out, but in Porto there is this long-lasting tradition of taking a morning espresso at the neighborhood café. If I were thinking where to do that, I would probably choose a very modest, off-the-radar spot called Juquinha in the Foz area, that has the most wonderful water bread (a local specialty). With freshly cut slices of ham and an espresso, it's the perfect morning start. Going for something lusher, for a looser morning schedule, the specialty coffees and crispy, fresh croissants in the morning at Flôr, The Largo's sister project next door, are unmissable.

What are your favorite places for lunch?

• With local friends: Rápido for a quick meal during the work week; Lapa Lapa for a weekend lunch by the beach and a good laugh with the girls.
• With friends from out of town: Taberna Mercadores for flawless roasted cod, Portuguese-style, just by the riverfront; Adega de São Nicolau for my favorite octopus fillets with octopus rice; Rogério do Redondo for good, consistent local food, which is charming for its still “true to its nature” atmosphere.
• With family: A Margarida in Leça, another part of town by the sea, known for generations for its shrimp rice; Casa d'Oro for Italian, thin-crust pizzas my kids love, and it also has a great rooftop over the river and an easygoing vibe; Maria Dentada at the Botanical Garden for snacks and freshly squeezed juices (the gardens make it very special and pleasant for an afternoon out).
• For romance: Terra serves Asian-influenced food, with consistency. A table by the balcony is a must.

What are your favorite places for dinner?

• With local friends: Pata Gorda has an off-the-radar location, a youthful, lively atmosphere and laid-back service. The food is creative and designed to share.
• With friends from out of town: Cozinha das Flores, The Largo's sister project. It gives a twist to the Porto restaurant scene and local cuisine. It is fun, relaxed and sophisticated, with an understated atmosphere. Genuíno for a funky list of wines and a lively, youthful and cool atmosphere. Marisqueira Matosinhos for fresh fish and seafood among the local habitués. Mito in the nightlife area has a nicely mixed crowd and is always busy (it serves late on weekends).
• With family: Treze has a homey feel. Beyond the food, I love the familiar local atmosphere.
• For romance: Rino is a cozy Japanese tavern where Mazaki and his wife serve the specials of the day and fresh sashimi.

For a drink with friends?

• Flôr for experience cocktails.
• Aduela for a lively and relaxed meet-and-greet glass of wine.
• Churchills Lodge Garden for a relaxed afternoon with Port wine, in a garden overseeing the river and Porto.
• Terraplana for cocktails and live music (sometimes).

For nightlife?

I love to dance and tend to prefer festivals over nightclubs. In Porto and the north, the music festival season starts from May on. From electronic music afternoons by boat to the indie music three-day festival Primavera Sound, there are many styles to choose from.

Favorite museum or cultural institution?

• I can't have enough of the Serralves Museum, because of its location and world-renowned artist exhibitions. Originally conceived as a private home, the estate owns an emblematic Art Deco house and immense gardens that vary in style, from French patterns to a forest and a farm. Part of the estate hosts another reference building, designed by Pritzker-Prize-winning architect Álvaro Siza Vieira, which is the contemporary art museum. So, this is a place that suits all sorts of purposes.
• Galeria Municipal do Porto is another more off-the-radar museum that usually presents local artists, with great-quality curation. It is immersed in the beautiful reference gardens of Palácio Cristal in the city center.
• Cinema Batalha is another long-hidden gem that has recently reopened to the community. This cinema tells one much more than the history of moving images. Its architecture is full of charming little secrets, and it's a symbol of our history and social development. It's a wonderful cultural stop, right across from another favorite—the National Theater São João, which is often overlooked by travelers but hosts brilliant contemporary subtitled plays.
• Going to a contemporary dance performance at Rivoli Municipal Theater, followed by a late dinner nearby, or going to Cinema Trindade for an after-work film screening.

What is your favorite neighborhood in Porto to wander in?

Passeio Alegre, because it’s by the ocean and one can still catch the old fisherman just “wasting time” here. Cedofeita is a melting pot of everything useful—great local groceries that know you by the name, local designer shops, art galleries, creative pop-ups, cafés and hipster bars and restaurants.

What is your favorite location for a dose of nature or adventure?

Gerês National Park is still wild, with wonderful waterfalls.

Do you have any favorite winemakers in the region?

Too many. Wine for me is really about the moment, sharing and people. (Perhaps I say this because I come from a region that generally does pretty high-quality wines.) Just to name a few favorites in my memory:

• Prá Lá is a fairly recent project from the Douro, produced by friends and the sommelier of The Largo, Gabriel and Ivo. Both the white and red wines represent how the Douro wines can be fresh and adaptable for many meals and occasions.
• Chryseia by Prats and Symington is a classic Douro reference. It never disappoints and is highly consistent.
• Parcela Única by Anselmo Mendes, another reference wine maker, is from the Alvarinho region—flowery and mineral-forward.
• Monte Xisto Órbita is a less obvious Douro, from the upper part of the region by Foz Côa. This wine is part of the new project of a family with long-lasting traditions and unique knowledge of the Douro, namely by the winemakers of Barca Velha.
• The last Tawny Port blended by my grandfather. There are only a few bottles left, so every drop is cherished and remembered.

What are your favorite places to shop?

All of these places are Porto-designed and nationally-produced:

• For jewelry: Porto classic Luís Ferreira in Rua das Flores and contemporary designer Rosarinho Cruz
• For bags: Carui Atelier
• For children's clothes: Piu Piu Chic
• For menswear: La Paz
• For flowers and home décor: Florida Studio
• For a special gift: Fresh flowers at Mercado da Foz, a small, local market

Do you have any favorite “hidden gem” places in Porto that you like to spend time at?

The Botanical Garden—there are few people here, and no pressure to leave the table.

Do you have a favorite book or film about Porto?

Aniki Bóbó is a documentary-style film from 1948 by director Manoel de Oliveira, where the riverside community is portrayed and, as unbelievable as it sounds, things are not radically different in some ways from today.

Besides The Largo—What are your favorite hotels in Portugal?

Quinta da Gricha in the Douro Valley, because it is a family-owned, wine-producing house and still hosts like that—simple and honest.

Besides Porto—What are your favorite places in Portugal?

Douro, Gerês, Alentejo. In each of the three, you might feel you are almost in a different country. In each you will find great food, filled with identity and cooked with passion, and beautiful natural landscapes—just right for a retreat to disconnect.