India Insider: Writer & World Traveler Fiona Caulfield Shares Her Intel

One of India’s leading travel writers and insiders, Fiona Caulfield, answers our questions about India and shares her expert knowledge—with everything from how she started as a female entrepreneur in the travel space and what she wishes more people understood about India, to the inside scoop on the upcoming Indagare Insider Journeys she's hosting and her must-visit shops and markets in Jaipur. Her popular Love Travel guides are a favorite among discerning travelers to India.

Read on to learn what she can’t leave India without and why the country keeps drawing her back.

How did you get you into travel and what is it like to be an entrepreneur in the travel space?

"My father was in the navy, so I grew up with travel in my blood—and as an Australian, travel is deeply embedded in our national DNA. My career in advertising, branding and innovation took me around the world, living in London, England and in Manhattan in the USA, and Toronto in Canada. My passion for mountains and trekking saw me venture to more far flung destinations and it was on my hike of Mount Everest that I had the idea to create a new brand of travel content for intrepid—yet discerning—travelers. I moved to India in 2004 to do this and launched my first book in 2006. My love affair with India is 20 years old and grows stronger over time.

My work is based on the insight that time is our most valuable asset. As a result, I believe traveling thoughtfully is really important, ensuring that you get the most out of your time and also that you contribute back in some way to the destination. My brand is built on authenticity and integrity and celebrates conscious travel; these, I believe, are all vital values in the travel space."

What is it about India that keeps drawing you back?

"I love the intensity of India. When I leave, it feels like the volume has been turned down and the switch flicked to black and white. I find the complexity of the country addictive—India demands more of you, more thought, more compassion and more time, always more time!"

How is India different from other cultural- and design-focused destinations?

"It feels to me that India has at its core a belief that everything can and should be beautiful. I remember jumping into an auto-rickshaw at home in Bangalore and noticing that a repair to the seat was in the shape of a heart, not simply a square patch, and in that moment I had awareness of India’s all-pervasive commitment to beauty.

After agriculture, the craft sector is the largest source of employment in the country, which emphasizes the importance of this to the economy and also to the national identity. The traditional skills of the artisans handed down through generations are simply extraordinary and are deeply embedded in Indian culture. In particular, India is a land of cloth. It is the biggest producer of handlooms in the world and the home to extraordinary craftspeople who embellish the textiles—it feels like a deep privilege to be able to visit and support."

This November will be your third time hosting the popular Indagare Insider Journey, Love Rajasthan. What has surprised you most about the Indagare Insider Journey experience?

"I love seeing India through fresh eyes, the wonder and the joy experienced by first-time travelers is infectious. It is also deeply satisfying to hear not only how much the Indagare group have enjoyed the journey but also to hear them making plans to return, bringing their family and friends."

What is it like to share your passion for history, culture, fashion and design with intimate groups of travelers?

"Being able to share with the travelers how I fell in love with India is very special. The best part of an Insider Journey is the unique experiences we create, providing exclusive access to places and people. The bond between the members of the group really enhances the trip."

What experiences are you most excited for on the upcoming Insider Journey to India? Can you tell us more about some of the people we are going to meet and the places we are visiting—and why you chose to include them in the itinerary?

"I am thrilled we are starting the journey in India’s most exciting and highest energy city. The coastal megalopolis of Mumbai can be thought of as a combination of New York and Los Angeles, being India’s commercial and financial capital and also the home to Bollywood, which produces double the number of films as Hollywood.

We then head to Rajasthan to explore the India of our imagination. The most romantic and beautiful state in the country with palaces, forts and extraordinarily wonderful hotels. Rajasthan is also home to some of India’s finest artisans and craftspeople, many of whom we will be visiting on our November and February journeys. I am thrilled that we have secured private tours and VIP access to palaces and forts like Jaipur’s City Palace and Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort, and we have some really special dining experiences lined up. I know that everyone will also visit the ateliers of fashion and jewelry designers as well as the craft workshops to see India’s extraordinary talent at work."

Travelers on the November 2024 and February 2025 Insider Journeys will be going to Mumbai. What are you most looking forward to sharing with the group in this destination?

"Our time here will explore how this city works and plays. We will take in art, architecture, fashion and cuisine and enjoy a textile tea with an acclaimed designer in her Art Deco home (Mumbai has more Deco than Miami!). We will also see some sites absolutely unique to this city, including the dabbawalas who deliver over 200,000 lunches daily with simply extraordinary accuracy."

What is something you wish more people understood about India?

"India’s scale and diversity is simply extraordinary. The country is complex, and contradictions and challenges abound. Here are some examples:

• India is one of the oldest civilizations in the world, some 5,000-plus years of history and tradition, but is a relatively young country, gaining independence only in 1947. By the end of this decade, India will be the world’s most populous country.

• India is the world’s fastest-growing major economy and is on track to be the world’s third largest economy by 2027, ranking only behind the U.S. and China in terms of number of billionaires. However, despite halving its poverty rate over the last three decades, India continues to have over 200 million people living under the poverty line.

• India’s space program is extraordinary, as is the belief in traditional astrology. Indian-born CEOs dominate Silicon Valley and by 2030 it is estimated that India will have over 850 million internet users and yet, India is also home to the largest number of illiterate people in the world.

I encourage people to explore India without preconception and be open to learning."

LIGHTNING ROUND:

• Favorite, must-order dishes you love? "I absolutely love breakfast in India. My number one choice is a masala dosa, a thin crisp rice crepe filled with a gently spiced potato masala and served with fresh coconut chutney."
  
• Any boutiques, stores, galleries or markets that you always make time to visit when you travel to India? "That is a very long list! I am always busiest in Jaipur and love visiting and shopping at Nila House, a foundation to preserve traditional handcrafted textiles, and also at Rasa, a wonderful contemporary brand of clothing and textiles. I also never miss a morning at the Jaipur flower market—it is one of my favorite experiences in India."
  
• Must-have items in your carry-on on a trip to India? "Bring as little as possible, as you will be heading home with more than you came with, in every sense!"
  
• Favorite items to shop for or bring home when traveling in India? "India is a land of cloth and is the largest producer of fine handcrafted textiles in the world. I always shop for hand-woven and hand-embroidered shawls and home linens, and I love collecting vintage pieces. It has become an addiction, a beautiful one!"
  
• Do you have any travel rituals? "Yes, I like visiting a temple soon after arriving and receiving a blessing for the journey ahead. It makes me pause to think about how lucky I am to be traveling and reminds me to think about the trip more thoughtfully."
  
• How would you describe your current “travel outlook” or philosophy? "I feel incredibly grateful to be able to travel freely and I have taken to heart the advice of the Dalai Lama, 'Once a year, go somewhere you have never been before.' I am deeply committed to conscious travel and believe we should contribute to the destinations we visit in a meaningful way by supporting organizations that undertake important social and/or environmentally sustainable work."