Why the Paloma is the drink of the summer
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Move over, Margarita. This summer’s tequila cocktail is the Paloma: a long, cool glass of tequila, grapefruit soda, lime, salt and ice. No shaker required.
“The Paloma is a truly Mexican cocktail because of its simplicity and flavour – it’s 100 per cent more Mexican than the Margarita,” says José Luis León, head bartender of Licorería Limantour in Mexico City. “It’s easy to prepare, easy to drink and good for a sunny day.”
The Paloma was popularised by La Capilla, a spit-and-sawdust bar in Jalisco – where I once watched patron Don Javier Delgado Corona stir a round of drinks with a butcher’s knife. And despite the craft cocktail movement’s best efforts, the Paloma remains, at heart, a no-frills recipe; it’s best, says León, “when you do not overcomplicate it”.
In Mexico, Palomas are usually made with Squirt – a brand of soda that can be hard to find outside the Americas. A lot of American bartenders I know substitute with the more readily available Mexican brand Jarritos or Ting grapefruit soda from Jamaica. More recently, the pink grapefruit Paloma has also been having a moment, thanks to the excellent Two Keys Pink Grapefruit Soda – a mixer that bursts with real-fruit juiciness but is also not too sweet (another good option in this vein is the pink grapefruit soda by The London Essence Company). Fever Tree Blood Orange Soda is another nice variation on the theme.
Adding fresh grapefruit juice to a Paloma is contentious – Ivy Mix of New York’s top tequila bar Leyenda won’t hear of it: “To me it’s not the real deal.” Personally I like a squeeze of the real stuff in the mix. Either way, says Jared Hirsch of Quince restaurant in San Francisco, “always finish your Paloma off with a squeeze of lime juice – it makes the whole thing pop”.
Paloma
This recipe is taken from the authoritative The Tequila Ambassador VO, by Tomas Estes, edited by Mitch Wilson, Phil Bayly and Jesse Estes, Tomas’s son (Wonk Press, £52)
Serves one
50ml tequila
20ml fresh lime juice
1 pinch of salt
Top with Squirt soda (or pink grapefruit soda)
Fill a highball glass with ice, add the tequila and top up with grapefruit soda
Finish with lime juice and garnish with the grapefruit slice and rim with salt
A few flakes of salt will also help to enhance its thirst-quenching-ness: either mixed into the drink or dabbed onto the edge of the glass as a Margarita-style “rim” – black lava salt adds real drama. Or turn up the heat with a bit of spice: at Viajante87 in Notting Hill, they garnish the Paloma with a 80/20 mix of salt and paprika-coloured Togarashi. At Chica & the Don in New York they use Tajin, a Mexican spice mix spiked with lime, chilli peppers and salt.
“Always use 100 per cent agave tequila – anything less is an insult,” say Lydia Friar and Javier Vite of Stones Throw Hotel & Restaurant in Maine. “You can use a reposado for more depth, but everyone loves a clean blanco.” I like Ocho and Mijenta, which both have great agave character and a crisp, fresh finish.
The traditional glass choice would be a tall highball – Richard Brendon’s new Optic range is wonderfully tactile. But my friend Tara Wigley (who is Yotam Ottolenghi’s co-author and a peerless host) recently served me a Paloma in a stemless balloon glass, which I also thought was stylish. (Moth does a nice canned Paloma if presentation isn’t an issue.)
Pile the ice high and garnish the drink with a fresh slice of pink grapefruit or lime. And give it a quick stir before you serve it, with or without a butcher’s knife.
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