Silicone in Skincare: A Complete Guide

In the world of skincare, there are thousands of different ingredients and formulations. From misunderstood glycerin to plumping peptides, you'll come across hundreds of terms in your research. Perhaps one of the most prevalent—and controversial—skincare ingredients out there is silicone. But it's in so many cult-favorite products– from serums to moisturizers...so can it really be that bad? We turned to two dermatologists and two estheticians to learn more about this popular skincare ingredient and debunk the myths behind it. Keep scrolling for our complete guide to silicone in skincare.

What is Silicone?

According to esthetician Graceanne Svendsen, "Silicone is naturally derived from polymers, compounds made up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms sometimes or often mixed with carbon or hydrogen or often both. It is thought of as low toxicity and resistant to heat." Its occlusive properties, versatility, and accessibility (both in terms of price tag and availability) may have contributed to its pervasiveness in skincare, she adds. And compared to other synthetics, silicone doesn't require added chemicals to keep its molecules stable. "Since it has no 'active' properties (such as an antioxidant or glycolic acid), silicone is thought of as stable and does not react with other ingredients or break down when exposed to air or light," Svendsen notes.

Benefits of Silicone for Skin 

• Improves texture: "Silicone gives an instant boost to the skin when applied topically," Svendsen explains. "It makes the surface of the skin smooth and gives a 'hydrated' effect," she adds. This may help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Locks in moisture: "Silicone is mainly thought of and used as an occlusive seal," says Svendsen. As such, it creates a barrier on the skin that prevents transepidermal water loss. Celebrity facialist, Joanna Vargas adds, "It is water-binding, so it can stay even when the skin gets wet and is an effective delivery system for other ingredients."
• Heals wounds and reduces scarring: Studies show that silicone gels may be effective in wound healing and scar reduction, making them a favored treatment among medical experts.
• Blendable: When combined with other skincare ingredients, silicone improves the consistency of the product. "It is a hydrating agent and puts a lot of slip into a product to allow it to be more spreadable," explains Vargas. This makes application a breeze.

Side Effects of Silicone

Given silicone's skincare perks, we have to wonder why it gets such a bad rap. According to Svendsen, silicone may exacerbate rosacea, acne, sensitive skin, or milia.

"One of my priorities as an esthetician is to analyze every detail of a patient's regimen and be able to recognize the signs of sensitivity," she says, recommending that anyone who experiences any of these skin issues should consider removing silicone from their product lineup and that in doing so herself, her skin (and hair) has never been better.

Although Svendsen's anecdotal evidence suggests that silicone may contribute to a flare-up, according to Dr. Lamb, "There is no reason to avoid silicones unless you have a known allergy to them."

Vargas adds that silicone isn't inherently harmful to the skin. "Silicone is considered safe by watchdog websites such as Paula's Choice because it's been proven so. It has so many effective properties." Still, Vargas admits that she limits her exposure to it. "I don't love using a lot of products with silicone in them because I do feel it can be clogging. However, for me as an esthetician, I do acknowledge the science," she says. Clogged pores are not necessarily a direct result of using silicone but of not completely washing it off.

Dermatologist Lauren Penzi, MD, recommends that certain skin types should avoid silicone if possible, especially those with acne. "If you are acne prone, silicones can act as a ‘barrier’ and trap oil, dirt, and dead skin cells, making acne worse," she says. "Also, avoid it in multi-step skincare routines. Silicones may block subsequent ingredients from reaching the skin, rendering anything applied after a silicone product ineffective."

How to Use It

In skin care, silicone is most often found in moisturizers and creams, including the dermatologist-recommended brand CeraVe. It combines well with other ingredients so look for antioxidants that will benefit your skin type and concern, such as dimethicone.

"Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is found in moisturizers, primers, foundations, sunscreens, hair care products, etc. It forms a protective barrier on the skin's surface, helping to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors," says Dr. Penzi.

"Dimethicone is a wonderful addition to a moisturizer because it traps moisture into the skin and prevents water evaporation across the skin surface," adds Lamb. "Jergens Lavender Triple Butter Blend is a perfect selection to provide luxurious long-lasting moisture with the help of dimethicone ingredients," she adds. More often than not, you'll want to apply your silicone after your serum or as the last step in your skincare routine since it will "seal in" ingredients. "You can use them as often as you would like/when you apply moisturizers two to three times per day," Dr. Lamb tells us. 

But in case you're still wary of using silicone, there are plenty of non-silicone skincare products on the market. Svendsen recommends TNS Recovery Complex, a potent anti-wrinkle serum from SkinMedica. Its silky texture feels reminiscent of a formula with hydrating ingredient, but is formulated sans silicone.